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Posted
1 minute ago, James2 said:

It does look good and race cars were not clear coated. Glad your having fun!

I was thinking more about protecting the decals over time more than accuracy. Thank you.

  • Like 1
Posted

Billy, Paint and decaling look first rate. You should be very proud of your work on this one. I know it looks awesome now, but you might want to consider clearing just to seal up the decals which I have found from personal experience will decide to curl up on the edges with age and the paint will stay glossier with some clear. Just my humble opinion. But do what you feel is right for you.

Posted
4 hours ago, WillyBilly said:

I was thinking more about protecting the decals over time more than accuracy. Thank you.

I just had a clear-coat job go bad on a Richie Evans coupe. Clear was Krylon Acrylic 1303 over kit and Ace decals. The clear reacted with the roof stripes even though I used light coats spaced out. 

Oven cleaner to the rescue, paint was Tamiya orange. The body is back in primer, I have to shoot some white primer next, followed by the orange. No clear this time.

I have 2 other stock cars right behind it. I'll just trim the decals as close as possible. I was considering some sort of wax I could apply over the decals. One car is a 2-tone with pearl white, I would need something that would not yellow.

Posted
4 minutes ago, bobss396 said:

I just had a clear-coat job go bad on a Richie Evans coupe. Clear was Krylon Acrylic 1303 over kit and Ace decals. The clear reacted with the roof stripes even though I used light coats spaced out. 

Oven cleaner to the rescue, paint was Tamiya orange. The body is back in primer, I have to shoot some white primer next, followed by the orange. No clear this time.

I have 2 other stock cars right behind it. I'll just trim the decals as close as possible. I was considering some sort of wax I could apply over the decals. One car is a 2-tone with pearl white, I would need something that would not yellow.

Use that Future floor polish for clear. It's self-leveling and you can even brush that on. It's not as glossy as a clear coat, but it does look good. It should not interact with your decals and paint. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Yes, future or whatever they call it these days is my go-to clear. Never had a problem with it and have some over ten-year-old models that look as good as the day I built them. No yellowing. You can even put it on with a brush and it self-levels so well you'd think it was sprayed on and you don't have to polish future. There is really no need to.

Posted
8 minutes ago, bobss396 said:

Thanks, I will try to find some soon, I guess Ace or a big supermarket will have it.

Yes, they both will but it's not future or pledge any more. Somebody mentioned the name, but it escapes me now. Just look for the floor finish that is in a clear bottle and looks clear like water. It's the same thing as future. 

Posted

I recall it being applied with a foam brush, can anyone confirm this? I have one model I may want to try this one very shortly. Any hint on drying time would be appreciated. Thanks.

Posted
2 minutes ago, bobss396 said:

I recall it being applied with a foam brush, can anyone confirm this? I have one model I may want to try this one very shortly. Any hint on drying time would be appreciated. Thanks.

Any brush will do but once you put it on don't mess with it even if it appears to fog up on you, it will go away when it dries.  It's now called Quick Shine so that's what you should be looking for.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted
9 hours ago, bobss396 said:

I recall it being applied with a foam brush, can anyone confirm this? I have one model I may want to try this one very shortly. Any hint on drying time would be appreciated. Thanks.

I used a regular wide brush on smaller parts, but you can air brush it too. 

  • Like 1
Posted
14 hours ago, bbowser said:

If I'm not mistaken you can clean the brush with ammonia?

I believe you are correct about that Bruce and you can strip it from a model too with it. Just use some Windex with ammonia. But don't try it till you know for sure. it sounds right to me, but I might not be right about that. I spilled some on my floor and it cleaned up nicely with Windex.

Posted
On 11/4/2023 at 5:47 PM, bbowser said:

If I'm not mistaken you can clean the brush with ammonia?

 

23 hours ago, MarkJ said:

I believe you are correct about that Bruce and you can strip it from a model too with it. Just use some Windex with ammonia. But don't try it till you know for sure. it sounds right to me, but I might not be right about that. I spilled some on my floor and it cleaned up nicely with Windex.

You are correct ammonia will clean up the brushes and Windex will remove it from models too if you make a mistake.

Posted

I got some work done last night. Got the chassis painted, and somewhat together. Still have to install some items before I glue down the cage and finish it. Kit was missing the heads, and valve covers, so I pulled those items from the old pro Nova that was converted to a Pontiac Ventura. I was not sure on interior color. I would have assumed it had been painted some color. I decided to go with gold floor with gloss black cage. 

bare chassis.jpg

bare interior.jpg

near finished chassis.jpg

coming together.jpg

  • Like 3
Posted (edited)

Finished the bottom of the chassis, and just have some touch up here, and there on the interior. 

I have used white paint on the raised white letters of the tires when I was a kid, but the paint never seemed to dry. Is there a product I can find at Hobby Lobby, or Walmart that with do the job, but dry?

finished chassis.jpg

near finished.jpg

Edited by WillyBilly
  • Like 1
Posted

I use acrylic while craft paints, they are like $1 to $2 for a squeeze bottle at any craft store. Look at those pens as well, I used one on a recent set of tires.

Posted

Bob pretty much covered it. The only thing I would add is to put a coat of dull coat lacquer on the tires after you do the letters to seal the lettering to the tires and make the tires look more real. Hobby Lobby sells it.

dullcoat.jpg

Posted

Has anyone ever tried painting a piece of glass and then sitting the tire on the white paint? Seems like it would be smooth and stiff and just let the raised letters touch the paint in most cases, but not all. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Getting near the end of the build. Still have to paint the letters on the tires, and glue in the glass, and she is ready to come together. My old shaky hands were somewhat steady with the chrome pen. I am pleased with how it has come out so far.

ending1.jpg

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  • Like 4
Posted

The suspense is killing me, Billy. Go ahead and put this build together and post the finished shots. I'm sure it's going to be fabulous.

Posted
23 hours ago, dwc43 said:

Has anyone ever tried painting a piece of glass and then sitting the tire on the white paint? Seems like it would be smooth and stiff and just let the raised letters touch the paint in most cases, but not all. 

I've never tried it D.W. but it sounds like it might be a good idea if you could get a nice thin layer of paint on the glass. And then apply the tire just right. I guess the only way to know is trial and error it and if it messes up, remove the paint quickly from the tire and use old methods.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
23 hours ago, dwc43 said:

Has anyone ever tried painting a piece of glass and then sitting the tire on the white paint? Seems like it would be smooth and stiff and just let the raised letters touch the paint in most cases, but not all. 

One guy in my club tried it and it came out nicely. The acrylic pens work well, get one with a small tip. I would try the Dullcote on a scrap piece first. I use the spray cans type over Shabo tire transfers. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Wow, I'm digging this build. I have to get  mine out soon. I have had a 2-tone paint phobia for a long time. I tend to avoid doing them. BUT... I just did one on a stock car build recently. I picked up a roll of 6 MM Tamiya tape with the dispenser. Looks like this phobia is a thing of the past.

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