WillyBilly Posted November 3, 2023 Author Share Posted November 3, 2023 1 minute ago, James2 said: It does look good and race cars were not clear coated. Glad your having fun! I was thinking more about protecting the decals over time more than accuracy. Thank you. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkJ Posted November 3, 2023 Share Posted November 3, 2023 Billy, Paint and decaling look first rate. You should be very proud of your work on this one. I know it looks awesome now, but you might want to consider clearing just to seal up the decals which I have found from personal experience will decide to curl up on the edges with age and the paint will stay glossier with some clear. Just my humble opinion. But do what you feel is right for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobss396 Posted November 3, 2023 Share Posted November 3, 2023 4 hours ago, WillyBilly said: I was thinking more about protecting the decals over time more than accuracy. Thank you. I just had a clear-coat job go bad on a Richie Evans coupe. Clear was Krylon Acrylic 1303 over kit and Ace decals. The clear reacted with the roof stripes even though I used light coats spaced out. Oven cleaner to the rescue, paint was Tamiya orange. The body is back in primer, I have to shoot some white primer next, followed by the orange. No clear this time. I have 2 other stock cars right behind it. I'll just trim the decals as close as possible. I was considering some sort of wax I could apply over the decals. One car is a 2-tone with pearl white, I would need something that would not yellow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwc43 Posted November 3, 2023 Share Posted November 3, 2023 4 minutes ago, bobss396 said: I just had a clear-coat job go bad on a Richie Evans coupe. Clear was Krylon Acrylic 1303 over kit and Ace decals. The clear reacted with the roof stripes even though I used light coats spaced out. Oven cleaner to the rescue, paint was Tamiya orange. The body is back in primer, I have to shoot some white primer next, followed by the orange. No clear this time. I have 2 other stock cars right behind it. I'll just trim the decals as close as possible. I was considering some sort of wax I could apply over the decals. One car is a 2-tone with pearl white, I would need something that would not yellow. Use that Future floor polish for clear. It's self-leveling and you can even brush that on. It's not as glossy as a clear coat, but it does look good. It should not interact with your decals and paint. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkJ Posted November 3, 2023 Share Posted November 3, 2023 Yes, future or whatever they call it these days is my go-to clear. Never had a problem with it and have some over ten-year-old models that look as good as the day I built them. No yellowing. You can even put it on with a brush and it self-levels so well you'd think it was sprayed on and you don't have to polish future. There is really no need to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobss396 Posted November 4, 2023 Share Posted November 4, 2023 Thanks, I will try to find some soon, I guess Ace or a big supermarket will have it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkJ Posted November 4, 2023 Share Posted November 4, 2023 8 minutes ago, bobss396 said: Thanks, I will try to find some soon, I guess Ace or a big supermarket will have it. Yes, they both will but it's not future or pledge any more. Somebody mentioned the name, but it escapes me now. Just look for the floor finish that is in a clear bottle and looks clear like water. It's the same thing as future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobss396 Posted November 4, 2023 Share Posted November 4, 2023 I recall it being applied with a foam brush, can anyone confirm this? I have one model I may want to try this one very shortly. Any hint on drying time would be appreciated. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkJ Posted November 4, 2023 Share Posted November 4, 2023 2 minutes ago, bobss396 said: I recall it being applied with a foam brush, can anyone confirm this? I have one model I may want to try this one very shortly. Any hint on drying time would be appreciated. Thanks. Any brush will do but once you put it on don't mess with it even if it appears to fog up on you, it will go away when it dries. It's now called Quick Shine so that's what you should be looking for. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwc43 Posted November 4, 2023 Share Posted November 4, 2023 9 hours ago, bobss396 said: I recall it being applied with a foam brush, can anyone confirm this? I have one model I may want to try this one very shortly. Any hint on drying time would be appreciated. Thanks. I used a regular wide brush on smaller parts, but you can air brush it too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbowser Posted November 4, 2023 Share Posted November 4, 2023 If I'm not mistaken you can clean the brush with ammonia? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkJ Posted November 5, 2023 Share Posted November 5, 2023 14 hours ago, bbowser said: If I'm not mistaken you can clean the brush with ammonia? I believe you are correct about that Bruce and you can strip it from a model too with it. Just use some Windex with ammonia. But don't try it till you know for sure. it sounds right to me, but I might not be right about that. I spilled some on my floor and it cleaned up nicely with Windex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwc43 Posted November 6, 2023 Share Posted November 6, 2023 On 11/4/2023 at 5:47 PM, bbowser said: If I'm not mistaken you can clean the brush with ammonia? 23 hours ago, MarkJ said: I believe you are correct about that Bruce and you can strip it from a model too with it. Just use some Windex with ammonia. But don't try it till you know for sure. it sounds right to me, but I might not be right about that. I spilled some on my floor and it cleaned up nicely with Windex. You are correct ammonia will clean up the brushes and Windex will remove it from models too if you make a mistake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillyBilly Posted November 7, 2023 Author Share Posted November 7, 2023 I got some work done last night. Got the chassis painted, and somewhat together. Still have to install some items before I glue down the cage and finish it. Kit was missing the heads, and valve covers, so I pulled those items from the old pro Nova that was converted to a Pontiac Ventura. I was not sure on interior color. I would have assumed it had been painted some color. I decided to go with gold floor with gloss black cage. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afx Posted November 7, 2023 Share Posted November 7, 2023 Coming along nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkJ Posted November 7, 2023 Share Posted November 7, 2023 Looking clean and awesome. Keep up the good work. This is going to be a winner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillyBilly Posted November 8, 2023 Author Share Posted November 8, 2023 (edited) Finished the bottom of the chassis, and just have some touch up here, and there on the interior. I have used white paint on the raised white letters of the tires when I was a kid, but the paint never seemed to dry. Is there a product I can find at Hobby Lobby, or Walmart that with do the job, but dry? Edited November 8, 2023 by WillyBilly 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobss396 Posted November 8, 2023 Share Posted November 8, 2023 I use acrylic while craft paints, they are like $1 to $2 for a squeeze bottle at any craft store. Look at those pens as well, I used one on a recent set of tires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkJ Posted November 8, 2023 Share Posted November 8, 2023 Bob pretty much covered it. The only thing I would add is to put a coat of dull coat lacquer on the tires after you do the letters to seal the lettering to the tires and make the tires look more real. Hobby Lobby sells it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwc43 Posted November 8, 2023 Share Posted November 8, 2023 Has anyone ever tried painting a piece of glass and then sitting the tire on the white paint? Seems like it would be smooth and stiff and just let the raised letters touch the paint in most cases, but not all. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillyBilly Posted November 9, 2023 Author Share Posted November 9, 2023 Getting near the end of the build. Still have to paint the letters on the tires, and glue in the glass, and she is ready to come together. My old shaky hands were somewhat steady with the chrome pen. I am pleased with how it has come out so far. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkJ Posted November 9, 2023 Share Posted November 9, 2023 The suspense is killing me, Billy. Go ahead and put this build together and post the finished shots. I'm sure it's going to be fabulous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkJ Posted November 9, 2023 Share Posted November 9, 2023 23 hours ago, dwc43 said: Has anyone ever tried painting a piece of glass and then sitting the tire on the white paint? Seems like it would be smooth and stiff and just let the raised letters touch the paint in most cases, but not all. I've never tried it D.W. but it sounds like it might be a good idea if you could get a nice thin layer of paint on the glass. And then apply the tire just right. I guess the only way to know is trial and error it and if it messes up, remove the paint quickly from the tire and use old methods. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobss396 Posted November 9, 2023 Share Posted November 9, 2023 23 hours ago, dwc43 said: Has anyone ever tried painting a piece of glass and then sitting the tire on the white paint? Seems like it would be smooth and stiff and just let the raised letters touch the paint in most cases, but not all. One guy in my club tried it and it came out nicely. The acrylic pens work well, get one with a small tip. I would try the Dullcote on a scrap piece first. I use the spray cans type over Shabo tire transfers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobss396 Posted November 9, 2023 Share Posted November 9, 2023 Wow, I'm digging this build. I have to get mine out soon. I have had a 2-tone paint phobia for a long time. I tend to avoid doing them. BUT... I just did one on a stock car build recently. I picked up a roll of 6 MM Tamiya tape with the dispenser. Looks like this phobia is a thing of the past. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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