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Posted (edited)

I use .020” brass for pins quite often. When using CA to glue them into very shallow holes, like mirrors and door handles, I like to knurl them by rolling them under a fine file.  It gives the glue a little more to hang onto.

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Edited by NOBLNG
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Posted (edited)

God idea. While I like mine to stay put, I don't get that serious - I roll my pins on a 320 grit wet/dry sandpaper. That gives the glue a nice bite.

Edited by peteski
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Posted

I use mainly .032" pins but use .020" brass now and then. I usually give them a score or so with an #11 blade, I will try the file trick.

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Posted

Brass and CA get along quite nicely.  While I haven't tried giving them a rough surface it certainly makes sense to do so in critical situations.  I use 24-gauge craft wire from most pinning operations.

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Posted

Sometimes parts will set up instantly with CA glues. Especially aluminum to aluminum structures. It may be the fine surface finishes. Pins in plastics are more forgiving. On the bench I have small pin vises with a .037" and .026" drill bits permanently installed, used mainly for pinning parts.

Posted (edited)
On 11/1/2023 at 8:45 AM, bobss396 said:

Sometimes parts will set up instantly with CA glues. Especially aluminum to aluminum structures. It may be the fine surface finishes. Pins in plastics are more forgiving. On the bench I have small pin vises with a .037" and .026" drill bits permanently installed, used mainly for pinning parts.

While what you mentioned is accurate, the time to set also depends on the CV viscosity.  The extra thin CA will set instantly, but in my experience the more viscous the CA is, the longer it will take to set. Regular, or gap-filling CA should give you some time to align the parts.

Edited by peteski
Posted

I generally use Zap-a-Gap medium CA glue. I have a few tubes of the thinner stuff from Ace Hardware. I'll have to try a couple of samples of each. 

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