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1 hour ago, Firebuilder said:

 

Aaron , Nice  looking decals, my computer skills are limited, wouldn’t even know where to start to make the stripes and emblems like you have done .  Can the letters be made with a shadow  effect  with micro soft word?  

 

There is a feature within Word called Word Art that allows quite a few options, and a drop shadow is one of them. You can also use a font with a shadow which would be an easier but more limited option.

I long ago switched to a more advanced drawing program (Corel Draw), so I'm a bit rusty with Word's options related to this stuff, but any word or drawing program, even the free ones can do a lot. With a little practice, printing basic decals is not much more complex than printing a document. GIMP is a free drawing program similar to Adobe Illustrator or Corel Draw that some use, but there is a learning curve to it. 

 

This is another example of decals I did with either Word or Microsoft Paint, this one with shadowed lettering. Again done 2005-07-ish so I'm fuzzy on the details. 

Tanker24.JPG.b463bd5d609a51f0042cad13c0f084e2.JPG  

Edited by Aaronw
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On 2/15/2024 at 8:43 PM, cifenet said:

The scratch building looks like it definitely requires tremendous amount of dedication and work.  And the progress is looking remarkable!  

keep it up!

Thank you, it sure does take a lot of time, there is  a lot of  redoing  things that seem right at first, then once in place………….. you see the fit is just not right.  the work part is relaxing and keeps me busy.

Dom

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I'm fortunate enough to have an ALPS printer for decal work.  Not only does it print gold and silver but it prints white also.  The front of the Pierce has some gold lettering with a drop shadow that was done simply by copying the gold part and changing the color in the graphics program.  The printer knows which colors to select based on what is on the screen.  The fluer de lis and "Pierce" on the grill were also done on the printer.096.thumb.JPG.5a4328e0776d2e629df8306161d83a61.JPG

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On 2/20/2024 at 2:55 PM, Chariots of Fire said:

I'm fortunate enough to have an ALPS printer for decal work.  Not only does it print gold and silver but it prints white also.  The front of the Pierce has some gold lettering with a drop shadow that was done simply by copying the gold part and changing the color in the graphics program.  The printer knows which colors to select based on what is on the screen.  The fluer de lis and "Pierce" on the grill were also done on the printer.096.thumb.JPG.5a4328e0776d2e629df8306161d83a61.JPG

Your decals look great.  It is good you have the alps printer and the  skills to  use it !  I don’t think I can pull off letting like that with my ink jet printer.

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That is a hard thing to do, especially if there are continuous pieces that are separated by the wheel wells and cab.  Had the same thing with the decals I did for the Pierce cab.  Ended up taking the stripes off the rear doors to re-apply the decals.  Just a little difference is noticeable for sure.

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Posted (edited)

I would have preferred a decal, it would have been  much easier. And you are right the wheel wells made it more difficult to  line things up.  For the cab I didn’t glue on the fender extensions making it easier to run the tape across the opening.  The box on the other hand I had  glued the Fender extensions on  prior to paint which made it much harder to line  it all up. I should have put more thought into that !  I wish I could have done it with decals, it would have saved a lot of time, and like you said, you  could take them off and re apply. With the paint it would be a project in itself to remove them. Some of the bleed through did come off with polishing compound. It is amazing that to my eye things look   pretty good, but then once a photo is taken and posted here, the flaws  really show  up so much more! Too bad I don’t have the eyesight I had 50 years ago.

Edited by Firebuilder
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  • 4 weeks later...

Nice to see progress, this is very ambitious work, truly challenging but it's coming along nicely!

I have a similar issue with 1-2mm stripes over a compound curved contour and you made me wonder if it might be easier to cut a wide band of tape rather than try to bend a thin strip over an edge. The cut edge  would stick better too and reduce bleed, gonna try it

 

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12 hours ago, 1st 700 Quad said:

How did you get those fender flares to bend that sharply without kinking? Heat?

I used the amt ALF fenders. I cut them in half , lengthwise right at the spot where the chrome inserts go, then used the outer edge of the fender. It was almost a perfect fit. Just needed to do a little sanding on the body wheel opening to match the fender flare. 

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9 hours ago, hct728(Bob) said:

Nice to see progress, this is very ambitious work, truly challenging but it's coming along nicely!

I have a similar issue with 1-2mm stripes over a compound curved contour and you made me wonder if it might be easier to cut a wide band of tape rather than try to bend a thin strip over an edge. The cut edge  would stick better too and reduce bleed, gonna try it

 

Thank you,  I have tried multiple  ways of taping and agree the thinner tape has many bleed through issues. Have not been able to make any further progress, bench time has been limited. Hope to get back to it this week.

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2 hours ago, Firebuilder said:

I used the amt ALF fenders. I cut them in half , lengthwise right at the spot where the chrome inserts go, then used the outer edge of the fender. It was almost a perfect fit. Just needed to do a little sanding on the body wheel opening to match the fender flare. 

The cut fenders are useful when wheel track is wider than body and give the AMT/ALF body a different look.

P1030253.JPG.57934a4fcf6db56616b09db14372ce3a.JPG

greg

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