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1:16 Gunze Sangyo 1937 Rolls-Royce Phantom III Sports Saloon


Anglia105E

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4 hours ago, David G. said:

You have that leather looking really good!

It has a good color and nice sheen to it.

David G.

Thanks David . . . I am very pleased with the darker brown colour of the leather, and even after overnight drying the sheen is still there, which is good news . . . I was torn between having leather covered seats in the front driver's compartment and cloth fabric seats in the rear passenger compartment, and having leather covered seats in both compartments. In the end I settled on the choice of leather for both. The carpets will be slightly darker than the leather surfaces, and the burr walnut woodwork will be a lighter shade of brown . . .

David

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4 hours ago, dino246gt said:

I think that leather looks great!

I've seen real leather used on 1/8th Rolls kits and I still think paint, done right, looks better.

Thanks Dennis . . . I have used real crimson leather for one of my Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud interiors, which in 1:24 scale turned out surprisingly well, although not entirely convincing . . . This is why I decided to use matt enamel brown paint for the 1:16 scale Phantom III seats, which is then coated with the black enamel wash that thankfully has produced a realistic sheen finish . . . Once the burr walnut woodwork has been added, plus the darker fabric carpets, and also the chrome fittings I am confident that the appearance of the whole interior of this car will blend together nicely.

David

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Lots of good progress today . . . Once the rear carpet template was created from masking tape, and the rear carpet was cut from blue felt material, the process was then repeated for the front carpet template and felt carpet. Both carpets have now been fitted to the floorboard of the Phantom III using PVA glue. The carpets are drying overnight and will be ready to have brown paint applied within 24 hours . . . 

The firewall has been given a couple of coats of Tamiya Surface Grey Primer, and the doors have also received two coats of primer over the filled and sanded sink marks . . . I managed to fabricate three knobs for the dashboard from some sprue that was saved from a previous kit build. Some detail on the dashboard is not included on the kit part, so I wanted to add these important controls . . .

Now I can move on to the burr walnut stage, which is the part that interests me greatly. This has to be done properly, and the final finish must be very authentic . . . Somehow, I seem to use a different method of producing the burr walnut effect with each model that I build . . . Basically, there are six pieces that will undergo the ' burr walnut ' treatment, these being the dashboard, the division and the four interior door panels (door cards) . . .

A J Webb ( Arthur ) is keeping a watchful eye on the coachbuilding work, and he will not accept anything less than perfection . . .This is a Rolls-Royce motor car, and the wealthy customer who has ordered this vehicle expects the best that money can buy !

David

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It's all coming together quite nicely.

The carpet will look great once the paint is applied.

One advantage to building in the larger scales is the ability to use more conventional materials without them looking out of scale.

David G.

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1 hour ago, David G. said:

It's all coming together quite nicely.

The carpet will look great once the paint is applied.

One advantage to building in the larger scales is the ability to use more conventional materials without them looking out of scale.

David G.

Yes, I think the carpets should appear correct, and hopefully not out of scale . . . The blue felt settled nicely into the recesses of the floor board, helped by the PVA glue soaking into the felt slightly . . .

The burr walnut application has gone well this morning, and I shall be posting the results later today . . .

David

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53 minutes ago, dino246gt said:

Looking so good, so sumptuous! I hope you'll have the picnic tables open with a jar of mustard?

 

Ha, Ha, Dennis . . . Yes, the picnic tables and the mustard will be one way of enjoying the luxury of this fine motor car !

David

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First of all, the Humbrol Matt Brown enamel was applied over the matt white enamel of the division part, along the top section. This was done with a soft brush and a thin coat, which established a random patchy effect . . . Then I applied Humbrol Dark Earth Matt enamel over the matt brown enamel while it was still tacky, by using a dabbing / dappling motion . . . The same brush was used to apply a dry brush technique, which brought out the lighter tones of the matt brown, and this was further enhanced by the matt white underneath. Once the division was completed, I repeated the method for the dashboard and the four interior door panels. This is by far the best method of creating a burr walnut effect that I have used, and the real secret I believe is the matt white base coat . . .Previously I would have started with a dark base coat and added lighter coats of paint over it, but the white works much better.

Moving on to the carpets, I removed all of the masking tape and trimmed the edges of the blue felt with a scalpel knife, ready for painting . . . Having considered various different shades of brown enamel paints, I decided to use Vallejo acrylic Burnt Umber and this was thinned with water. The acrylic paint was dabbed onto the carpet felt and not brushed much. I was pleased with the result, which has to compliment the leather effect as well as the burr walnut effect . . . 

Everything has been left to dry overnight, and following the 24 hours drying time the yacht varnish will be applied over the six burr walnut parts, to produce a high gloss polished finish.

David

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Impressive results for the burl walnut trim! Thanks for sharing your technique, I'll have to try that next time I need such a finish.

I like the combination of colors you're using for the interior. Together they have a warm, dark, almost smoky feel to them. It brings to mind a faint smell of leather with just a hint of bourbon and cigars.

I think Mr. Webb will be pleased.

David G.

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16 hours ago, Anglia105E said:

First of all, the Humbrol Matt Brown enamel was applied over the matt white enamel of the division part, along the top section. This was done with a soft brush and a thin coat, which established a random patchy effect . . . Then I applied Humbrol Dark Earth Matt enamel over the matt brown enamel while it was still tacky, by using a dabbing / dappling motion . . . The same brush was used to apply a dry brush technique, which brought out the lighter tones of the matt brown, and this was further enhanced by the matt white underneath. Once the division was completed, I repeated the method for the dashboard and the four interior door panels. This is by far the best method of creating a burr walnut effect that I have used, and the real secret I believe is the matt white base coat . . .Previously I would have started with a dark base coat and added lighter coats of paint over it, but the white works much better.

Moving on to the carpets, I removed all of the masking tape and trimmed the edges of the blue felt with a scalpel knife, ready for painting . . . Having considered various different shades of brown enamel paints, I decided to use Vallejo acrylic Burnt Umber and this was thinned with water. The acrylic paint was dabbed onto the carpet felt and not brushed much. I was pleased with the result, which has to compliment the leather effect as well as the burr walnut effect . . . 

Everything has been left to dry overnight, and following the 24 hours drying time the yacht varnish will be applied over the six burr walnut parts, to produce a high gloss polished finish.

David

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Wow. The best hand-painted wood pattern I'ver ever seen.

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4 hours ago, David G. said:

Impressive results for the burl walnut trim! Thanks for sharing your technique, I'll have to try that next time I need such a finish.

I like the combination of colors you're using for the interior. Together they have a warm, dark, almost smoky feel to them. It brings to mind a faint smell of leather with just a hint of bourbon and cigars.

I think Mr. Webb will be pleased.

David G.

Your comments are much appreciated David G. . . . I stumbled upon the matt white base idea when I applied a thin coat of the Humbrol Matt Brown enamel onto a small piece of foamex board, which is a white material that I use for constructing buildings and backdrop screens . . . What suddenly became obvious to me was that both the colour and the effect shouted ' Walnut ' to me . . . This led me to stop applying the matt brown in thick coats, and also to start out with the matt white first of all . . . Having tried many different combinations of colours to get the walnut colour, here was the actual colour staring me in the face and it was just one colour !

Personally speaking, I have never had the pleasure of sitting in the back of a 1937 Rolls-Royce Phantom III, so I can only imagine what the experience might have been like, in terms of the overall smell . . . Your description along the lines of dark, smoky, leather, bourbon and cigars says it all . . .

David

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3 hours ago, dino246gt said:

Oh that does impart luxury from that era, very nicely done!

Absolutely Dennis . . . I am rather pleased with what I have achieved during this build. I wish that I had found this method while I was building all those Silver Cloud's, having built and painted nine models in total . . .

David

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25 minutes ago, sjordan2 said:

Wow. The best hand-painted wood pattern I'ver ever seen.

Wow ! . . . That is some high praise indeed Skip . . . Thank you so much.

I'm not sure why I couldn't have discovered this method previously . . . One of those wonderful eureka moments.

David

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My old tin of yacht varnish was opened today, and it was not a pretty sight . . . The varnish looked milky and not clear, so I went out and purchased a new tin of Johnstone's Outdoor Yacht Varnish Clear Gloss . . . only the best for this Rolls-Royce !  All of the burr walnut parts have been coated with the varnish, which is now being left to dry for at least 24 hours. Inside the loft workshop was 15°C, with the fan heater on and the Velux window partly open, at 9:30 pm

The felt carpet material has not dried, even after 24 hours, and also the colour has changed from brown to grey . . . I need to try a different type of paint for these carpets. Now I have dried out the wet felt with a hair dryer on maximum heat, and I shall reconsider paint options . . .

David

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30 minutes ago, Pierre Rivard said:

Beautiful work David. The leather and wood finishes look very realistic. This project is looking mighty good!

Thank you Pierre . . . I am happy with the leather and wood finishes for this model, so now I just have to get the carpets up to the same standard.

David

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The varnish really livens up the wood. It looks even better with a proper gloss on it.

Curious thing about the color changing carpet. Maybe the adhesive drew the pigment from the paint? One wouldn't expect PVA to interact like that.

David G.

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3 hours ago, David G. said:

The varnish really livens up the wood. It looks even better with a proper gloss on it.

Curious thing about the color changing carpet. Maybe the adhesive drew the pigment from the paint? One wouldn't expect PVA to interact like that.

David G.

Yacht Varnish is a marvellous product !

I think what is happening with the carpet, is that the blue felt material is reacting with not only the PVA glue and paint, but also the water . . .

This morning I have arrived at the solution . . . Humbrol Matt Dark Earth enamel, thinned with Humbrol enamel thinners, with a small amount of black wash enamel added to the mix . . . This is more like the colour that I am aiming for, and the carpets should dry overnight this time . . .

I am posting photos shortly, showing the carpet wash process . . .

David

 

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Once the new mix was prepared, I set about applying the dark earth wash to the carpets . . . This has produced a darker more satisying colour to the carpet material, which does look like real carpet I think . . . Also, the contrast between the carpets and the brown leather seats is better. Following overnight drying, I shall be able to see the true colour of the carpets, and bring together the carpets, the leather surfaces and the burr walnut wood surfaces.

While the lower body and upper body were mounted on the rolling chassis, with the floor board and carpets inside, I test fitted one of the inner door posts and the outer door pillar piece . . . I can see this fitting okay further into the build, when I get to the stage where the division is fitted and the door hinges have to be mounted onto the doors and the door pillars.

David

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It's all coming together quite nicely David. You've hit upon a good mix of colors for the interior.

I'm still impressed with the look of the leather upholstery.

As is Mr. Webb it seems. :) 

David G.

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33 minutes ago, David G. said:

It's all coming together quite nicely David. You've hit upon a good mix of colors for the interior.

I'm still impressed with the look of the leather upholstery.

As is Mr. Webb it seems. :) 

David G.

Yes David, the appearance of the leather upholstery is actually quite satisfying . . . Part of the credit must go to Gunze Sangyo, because they have provided the seat parts moulded in suitable material and surface texture . . . The funny thing is, that I wasn't able to source a satin brown enamel paint, which then led to the use of matt brown, and a black enamel wash over the matt paint . . .

A. J. Webb is most impressed, so I must have got something right !

David W.

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Over the previous few days the four interior door panels have been removed from the sprue, now that the yacht varnish has dried more than 24 hours.

Also, the metal grab handle has been super glued to the left hand side of the burr walnut dashboard . . . The firewall has been test fitted between the rear of the engine and the floorboard, and then areas of the bodywork that will be sprayed black later, have been masked off with narrow orange tape and wide best blue tape . . . I applied two thin coats of Tamiya TS-7 Racing White to the lower part of the four doors, and the two bonnet side panels, as well as the two small side pieces at the front of the upper body section.

I have examined the ' cream ' painted pieces (Racing White), after drying for over 24 hours and my feeling is that they could do with a further one or two coats of paint before I remove the masking tape . . . There is a weather window of 4 hours tomorrow, during which the outside temperature reaches 12°C, so I can get the paint spraying done. The cream can be allowed 5 days curing, before I tackle the TS-14 Black areas of the body . . .

David

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