CA Whitecloud Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 My previous WIP thread was my first go at reaching out to the modeling community. I got back to modeling in adult life several years back, but it is only recently I've cleaned up my act and am approaching my hobby with a much needed clearer head. The last build I think I was trying too hard and did not leave well enough alone. All in all it's a nice build, but I really F'd up the clear coat to a point it looks like alligator skin. Another learning experience and all in the past. This kit I'm going concentrate on a clean OOB build. I don't know enough about cars and engines at this point to to be concerned about different transmissions or modifying body parts to match real life. I do however like to explore aftermarket add-ons, new tools and detailing products. Blah, Blah...'nough said. Maybe something like this. Or... Someone told me there is no such thing as a purple Chevy. We'll see. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zippi Posted March 2 Share Posted March 2 That's a really nice kit Calvin. I built it last year. That gold one looks Super nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CA Whitecloud Posted March 2 Author Share Posted March 2 How do I lower a model kit?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwc43 Posted March 3 Share Posted March 3 3 hours ago, CA Whitecloud said: How do I lower a model kit?? On leaf spring cars you can just cut up a small plastic block to put between the axle and the spring. On the front you can sometimes turn the spindles upside down or cut the axle pin off and raise it up to lower the front end. You can also change out the tires sidewall height to make simple adjustments. Need to check to see if you have clearance to do it in the first place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FoMoCo66 Posted March 3 Share Posted March 3 18 hours ago, dwc43 said: On leaf spring cars you can just cut up a small plastic block to put between the axle and the spring. On the front you can sometimes turn the spindles upside down or cut the axle pin off and raise it up to lower the front end. You can also change out the tires sidewall height to make simple adjustments. Need to check to see if you have clearance to do it in the first place. He said it. That's probably the best way to do it. For the rear you could also heat them up under a candle and flaten them a little. If your going to do that, I recommend bending them to see if the hight is right first then setting them with the heat. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CA Whitecloud Posted March 7 Author Share Posted March 7 Nevermind wanting to lower the stance. I can't even figure out how to use the resin wheels I bought. Why are they so much bigger? And what would be the process to install them? Kit wheels have the center insert and a brack plate. The resin wheels only have the disc brake piece but how does it go on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CA Whitecloud Posted March 7 Author Share Posted March 7 And if I did use the resin tires, how would I paint those? Who/brand has a good rubber color paint? Not the Testors that I have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CA Whitecloud Posted March 7 Author Share Posted March 7 (edited) Engine bay and chassis good to go. Keeping it lean and clean. 😁 Edited March 7 by CA Whitecloud 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TopherMcGinnis Posted March 7 Share Posted March 7 Using aftermarket wheels takes some creativity. You can glue(use CA glues only) styrene tube or rod to the center of the wheels to adapt to the spindles of the the car. Looks like you bought the wheels off Ebay, and they look to be the 20/21 scale inch versions of the Cragars. Tamiya has a rubber black paint, or you can use a semi-gloss black paint. A tip that I've neglected more times than I like to admit: pre fit everything before you paint anything. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stitchdup Posted March 7 Share Posted March 7 (edited) For the tyres tamiya rubber black is my go to. As for fitting those wheels it looks like you might be lucky enough that the axle ends fit into the holes on the back of the wheel, but if it doesn't you can enlarge the holes by drilling them out. If you do need to drill out the hole its best to step up the size of the drill bit slowly. I've had wheels break when i tried to use too large a bit too soon. Another option is to use plastic tubing inside the hole to reduce the size of the hole. When you get down to a fairly small size, you can then put a piece of rod in the centre to mount the wheel to the hole in the ends of the axle. On the front you might need to do the bits of tubing to make the hole smaller but you might also need to use the tubing to extend out from the wheel so it is spaced away from the front mount as it looks like the back of the wheel will not fit over the suspension without having it spaced out a little. but before you do any of this try putting the body on as there might not be enough space for those wheels at the rear without doing some mods to the rear suspension. you might need to move the spring in towards the centre a little to ge tthem under the arches Edited March 7 by stitchdup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zippi Posted March 7 Share Posted March 7 Looking good so far Calvin. You may want to check the location of your yellow traction bars. This is the bottom of mine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dino246gt Posted March 7 Share Posted March 7 Tamiya rubber black acrylic is definitely the way to go. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CA Whitecloud Posted March 8 Author Share Posted March 8 14 hours ago, stitchdup said: For the tyres tamiya rubber black is my go to. As for fitting those wheels it looks like you might be lucky enough that the axle ends fit into the holes on the back of the wheel, but if it doesn't you can enlarge the holes by drilling them out. If you do need to drill out the hole its best to step up the size of the drill bit slowly. I've had wheels break when i tried to use too large a bit too soon. Another option is to use plastic tubing inside the hole to reduce the size of the hole. When you get down to a fairly small size, you can then put a piece of rod in the centre to mount the wheel to the hole in the ends of the axle. On the front you might need to do the bits of tubing to make the hole smaller but you might also need to use the tubing to extend out from the wheel so it is spaced away from the front mount as it looks like the back of the wheel will not fit over the suspension without having it spaced out a little. but before you do any of this try putting the body on as there might not be enough space for those wheels at the rear without doing some mods to the rear suspension. you might need to move the spring in towards the centre a little to ge tthem under the arches Yeah these wheels are a no go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CA Whitecloud Posted March 8 Author Share Posted March 8 13 hours ago, Zippi said: Looking good so far Calvin. You may want to check the location of your yellow traction bars. This is the bottom of mine. You are correct sir. I did google pics since I didn't know what traction bars were. I did not look close enough at those pis, or the instruction sheet for that matter. What's the best way to unstick them short of prying them off? Because you know there will be that one person that comes over to my house, notices my tractions bars are mounted incorrectly, and leaves in disgust. So, thanks for that Zippi! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CA Whitecloud Posted March 8 Author Share Posted March 8 15 hours ago, TopherMcGinnis said: Looks like you bought the wheels off Ebay, and they look to be the 20/21 scale inch versions of the Cragars. Do you mean 20"-21" in the 1:1 world? So the Nova would have say 17" wheels? I honestly did not realize the tires were resin as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TopherMcGinnis Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 The Nova had 14" wheels from the factory. The 17" wheels will require alot of work to fit the small wheel wells. I've used a few sets of Jay's wheels, and have more in stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CA Whitecloud Posted March 8 Author Share Posted March 8 1 hour ago, TopherMcGinnis said: The Nova had 14" wheels from the factory. The 17" wheels will require alot of work to fit the small wheel wells. I've used a few sets of Jay's wheels, and have more in stock. I will be saving those wheels for another build. And, I just might stealing that color scheme from the Fleetside in the background. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TopherMcGinnis Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 4 hours ago, CA Whitecloud said: I will be saving those wheels for another build. And, I just might stealing that color scheme from the Fleetside in the background. That's Apologies To Pearly. Painted pearl white with pearl red on the roof. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwc43 Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 (edited) 10 hours ago, CA Whitecloud said: You are correct sir. I did google pics since I didn't know what traction bars were. I did not look close enough at those pis, or the instruction sheet for that matter. What's the best way to unstick them short of prying them off? Because you know there will be that one person that comes over to my house, notices my tractions bars are mounted incorrectly, and leaves in disgust. So, thanks for that Zippi! If you used CA glue you can try fingernail polish remover. It has acetone in it and it will eat CA or Super Glue. You could also put it in the freezer and let it get cold before trying to gently pry them off. Edited March 8 by dwc43 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CA Whitecloud Posted March 8 Author Share Posted March 8 (edited) Did I fail my kit if the wheels are not going to roll? And the tire treads are not all going the same direction! I'm a disgrace to my hobby. Edited March 8 by CA Whitecloud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FoMoCo66 Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 Rolling wheels. Almost none of my wheels roll. Only the super box stock ones that fit extremely well without glue roll. Also if they are the old amt promo style chassis those are kind of hard to not make roll. But with your situation there is no need for rolling wheels and you certainly didn't fail your kit. Plus rolling wheels make them more likely to fall off the shelf. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TopherMcGinnis Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 Don't be so hard on yourself. This is a hobby. Have FUN! Look at it as an exercise. Take what you've learned from this kit and apply it to the next one. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FoMoCo66 Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 2 hours ago, TopherMcGinnis said: Don't be so hard on yourself. This is a hobby. Have FUN! Look at it as an exercise. Take what you've learned from this kit and apply it to the next one. EXACTLY! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CA Whitecloud Posted March 9 Author Share Posted March 9 On 3/7/2024 at 5:55 AM, Zippi said: You may want to check the location of your yellow traction bars. Better? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CA Whitecloud Posted March 10 Author Share Posted March 10 Moving on: Interior Tamiya semi-gloss can. Not quite as glossy as I would like. I'm going with it. Maybe a satin varnish? How do I bring detail of seats on a black finish? Molotow or BMF on cranks and handles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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