Dupli-Color Hi-Build Primer

[ewetwo]

Just wondering if anyone has tried this for primer?

 

Edited March 4 by ewetwo

[stitchdup]

I haven't used it for a long time but since its a fleet enamel its likely it wont have the finish you're used to. fleet enamel is more about a quick covering paintjob than a nice finish so it will cover well but you may find it has a lot more orange peel. we only used it for trucks and plant when i was in the bodyshops. I'm not saying you cant get a good finish with it but you can find better options unless using it as a filler primer. Does it say if its sandable on the tin? the stuff we used wasn't and gummed up wet n dry unless you used a lot of dish soap

[Ace-Garageguy]

This is the stuff you want...not the enamel.

It's SANDABLE...and boy, will it obliterate fine details if you get carried away.

Remember...it's made for filling sanding scratches and chips on REAL cars, so you really don't want to use it as a general primer on models.

It works well for filling sanding scratches over model bodywork, but if you do your bodywork right, you shouldn't need anything this heavy anyway.

[ewetwo]

Thank you for explaining it to me guys. I use the Dupli-Color primer in the short can. I didn’t have good luck with the taller, cheaper can of  Duplicolor-Color primer. It seems every time I used that under lacquer it wasn’t strong enough to keep the lacquer reaching through to the plastic. Now I’m finding the same thing happening with the more expensive Dupli-Color primer I normally use. The paint looks great but after a few hours it looks rough and looses it shine.

[Ace-Garageguy]

3 minutes ago, ewetwo said:

Thank you for explaining it to me guys. I use the Dupli-Color primer in the short can. I didn’t have good luck with the taller, cheaper can of  Duplicolor-Color primer. It seems every time I used that under lacquer it wasn’t strong enough to keep the lacquer reaching through to the plastic. Now I’m finding the same thing happening with the more expensive Dupli-Color primer I normally use. The paint looks great but after a few hours it looks rough and looses it shine.

Sorry to hear that. I wonder if it's a "bad batch" scenario, or if the product is being cheapened like everything else.

Primers from PlastiKote that used to be the go-to stuff were simply trash, unusable, after the "new-improved" reformulation a few years back.

[stitchdup]

some of the duplicolour primers have a fairly tight time for overcoating them or else you have to leave them for a few days. with some of them if you dont apply the final colour within 2 hours, you'd have to leave it around a week to fully gas. but since duplicolour like to have continuity in their packaging you have to read the tin to find out which primer it is. my local shop only carries the one with no time limit as they had a lot of complaints when they had both (because who reads the label?)

[GMP440]

1 hour ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

This is the stuff you want...not the enamel.

It's SANDABLE...and boy, will it obliterate fine details if you get carried away.

Remember...it's made for filling sanding scratches and chips on REAL cars, so you really don't want to use it as a general primer on models.

It works well for filling sanding scratches over model bodywork, but if you do your bodywork right, you shouldn't need anything this heavy anyway.

I also agree that this will fill in emblems and other scripts.  However it's a very good at filling scratches and imperfections over bodywork and filler.  Just don't hit the scripts too much with it.

[Muncie]

This one, Duplicolor 1699 Primer Sealer is a good barrier over plastic, and under lacquer.  It dries smooth and does not obliterate detail.  Needs enough coats to cover and prevent the topcoat from getting through.  

Primer Sealer – Duplicolor

[ewetwo]

Thanks again. A lot of info here I didn’t know.

[ewetwo]

I usually do a few light coats of primer within a half hour or so, Then spray paint them the next day. A few light coats. But like I said. The paint looks great for a few hours and then starts looking bad. Mainly in the top surfaces of the car/truck. And how do you know if it's enamel or lacquer primer? I use the duplicate-Coloe in the sort can which is more expensive that the taller can. The short can or primer and paint are up to $16.99 where I live. 

[stitchdup]

10 minutes ago, ewetwo said:

I usually do a few light coats of primer within a half hour or so, Then spray paint them the next day. A few light coats. But like I said. The paint looks great for a few hours and then starts looking bad. Mainly in the top surfaces of the car/truck. And how do you know if it's enamel or lacquer primer? I use the duplicate-Coloe in the sort can which is more expensive that the taller can. The short can or primer and paint are up to $16.99 where I live. 

the only way to be sure is to read the cans. the info you want is the overcoat times, some are overcoatable within a couple of hours or wait a week, while others are more general and just leave to dry overnight. does it work any better if you use a different colour of primer? the non grey cans (red/brown/white/black) tend be the general primers. The primer itself is forgiving if you are recovering with primer so timing isn't as important with it unless you switch colours. also, does your paint need clear maybe? it could be worth testing that if the paint is just flat. but then humidity could play a part too and cause the paint to go flat. it might be worth trying a colour restoring polish on it too. it says the type of primer on the front of the can. the can you posted has it about a third down the tin and it should say on each tin in roughly the same place.

[ewetwo]

This is what happens. Primer. Paint. Then clear. Won't polish out either so it's in the purple pond right now. It was special ordered paint from the parts store. My Caddy and Oldsmobiles were fine. Same paint. Different batch of primer. 

[stitchdup]

if you still have the paint try and test it some scrap sprue from another kit. it could be something between the primer and plastic and it would let you know if its a bad can. I've got a tin of their filler primer that sprays out fibres of primer instead of what i would call paint.  its not even the same colour as filler primer usually is

[Mark]

Sometimes, on occasion, the problem with junk coming through the spray can nozzle can be the result of the can not being shaken thoroughly enough.  Who knows how long ago it was made, how long it sat on the rack at the auto parts store, or how many cold trailers and warehouses it sat in on the way there.  Before even test spraying it, shake until the agitator ball can glide around the bottom of the can freely.  This applies to paint as well as primer.  It won't solve all problems (sometimes the paint is just bad) but it will at least give you a chance at the right results.

[ewetwo]

I shake my paint for around 10 minutes. The only thing that has changed is a new can of primer. And at $16.99. It should be ok. I could try and take it back but I'm sure they would give me a hard time and tell my that's not what that primer is used for. Just seems like everything in the model car world went South during and after covid. Did they change the formula to save money? I've used that Dupli-Color primer exclusively. 

[Mark]

When any of these paint makers change the formula, like most other things, it's to trim the cost of the product.  With primer, it's more solvent and less "solids".  What was once "primer" is now "filler primer", what used to be "filler primer" is now "high build primer".  Pre-Covid, but it has changed in the last ten or fifteen years.

[stitchdup]

if you think duplicolour primer is bad, then simoniz are saying hold my beer, but the beer would probably be a better primer.

[bobss396]

I stopped using DC primers for bodies. I use Hobby Lobby primers, also says to be a scratch-filler on the can. It goes on thinner than DC and has less orange peel. Sometimes I heat it up first and almost anything goes into the dehydrator.

[ewetwo]

4 hours ago, Mark said:

When any of these paint makers change the formula, like most other things, it's to trim the cost of the product.  With primer, it's more solvent and less "solids".  What was once "primer" is now "filler primer", what used to be "filler primer" is now "high build primer".  Pre-Covid, but it has changed in the last ten or fifteen years.

I think you nailed it Mark as I saw those cans of primer in Ollies for $2.99 so I bought 2 cans. Oh well. With state tax. $7 wasted. Could have been worse right. I could have bought a case LOL!

[Mark]

I too picked up two cans.  The "high build" is useful for bodywork areas, you don't want too much of it around detail areas.  

What has worked (for me) is: "filler primer" or "high build", with a light blast of "sealer primer" on top of that.  The "sealer" seems to prevent the color coats from burning through and raising scratches in the bodywork areas.  I still go light on the initial color coats though.

[Sledsel]

I'll give out my 2 cents. I like the Duplicolor scratch fill primer and Rustoleum red oxide sandable primer for body work areas. Both go on heavy with the Rustoleum a bit heavier. After bodywork, or no bodywork I like Duplicolor primer sealer. Goes on fairly smooth but I like a nice wet sanding with 1000 grit before paint.