full detail 1/16th Gordie Bonin BubbleUp Trans Am Funnycar

[Ian McLaren]

 

This is my latest project and perhaps most ambitious.  I have wanted to build this car in 1/16th literally for decades but it always got put off of for one thing or another.  The major hurdle was finding a 1/16th Trams Am body that was suitable and also gathering enough reference material to allow me to do justice to a car I saw run on numerous occaisions and also one that I was familiar with most of the people involved. The car was run primarily out of the Edmonton Alberta just less than 200 miles from my home and we ran at the same tracks several times. The car itself was alway one of my favorites and Gordie was one of the most personable people I have ever had the pleasure to know.  Close friends, no, but we did talk during the race weekend more often than not. Late last year Nick Bradshaw of Flashpoint Resins solve the body issue with a very nice resin cast 77-78 Trans Am.   It was going to need some substancial alterations to back date it to resemble the car above but at least I now had a starting point.  The other stumbeling block was the Swindahl chassis which as far as I know has never been represented in kit form.  I also have never seen anyone model one (but there may very well be some out there) and finding photos of the correct version of the chassis has been difficult. Swindahl was primarily a Top Fuel chassis builder who eventually revolutionized how Top Fuel Chassis were designed and built.  This particular chassis was as far as I can tell only used in this form for a handfull of Trans Am and Corvette funnycars over a two or three year span.  I have studdied many photos over the last few months and have come up with what I think is a fairly close approximation of that chassis but I am still researching, as there are a few minor areas that have not shown up in any of the photos I have seen.  I chose the car as it was campained in 1978 because it to me has the most personality.  It is truly a weapons grade competition car, not much chrome, simplified graphics, non polished mag blower, natural cast injector and barely polished hat as well as a very unique front suspension and steering system.  I hope that you will like where this build is going, and I will also include how and why some of the details and finishes were accomplished.   At anytime please feel free to comment on what you see and if something I'm doing that is not correct let me know as I do not know everything about this car or its history.

 

Edited March 31 by Ian McLaren

[Chris Smith]

1 hour ago, Ian McLaren said:

 

This is my latest project and perhaps most ambitious.  I have wanted to build this car in 1/16th literally for decades but it always got put off of one thing or another.  The major hurdle was finding a 1/16th Trams Am body that was suitable and also gathering enough reference material to allow me to do justice to a car I saw run on numerous occaisions and also one that I was familiar with most of the people involved. The car was run primarily out of the Edmonton Alberta just less than 200 miles from my home and we ran at the same tracks several times. The car itself was alway one of my favorites and Gordie was one of the most personable people I have ever had the pleasure to know.  Close friends, no, but we did talk during the race weekend more often than not. Late last year Nick Bradshaw of Flashpoint Resins solve the body  with a very nice resin cast 77-78 Trans Am.   It was going to need some substancial alterations to back date it to resemble the car above but at least I now had a starting point.  The other stumbeling block was the Swindahl chassis which as far as I know has never been represented in kit form.  I also have never seen anyone model one (but there may very well be some out there) and finding photos of the correct version of the chassis has been difficult. Swindahl was primarily a Top Fuel chassis builder who eventually revolutionized how Top Fuel Chassis were designed and built.  This particular chassis was as far as I can tell only used in this form for a handfull of Trans Am and Corvette funnycars over a two or three year span.  I have studdied many photos over the last few months and have come up with what I think is a fairly close approximation of that chassis but I am still researching, as there are a few minor areas that have not shown up in any of the photos I have seen.  I chose the car as it was campained in 1978 because it to me has the most personality.  It is truly a weapons grade competition car, not much chrome, simplified graphics, none polished mag blower, natural cast injector and barely polished hat as well as a very unique front suspension and steering system.  I hope that you will like where this build is going, and I will also include how and why some of the detail and finishes were accomplished.   At anytime please feel free to comment on what you see and if something I'm doing that is not correct let me know as I do not know everything about this car or its history.

 

Very cool subject, I remember this car running at Fremont Raceway. I was probably 10 or 11 years old. My dad used to take me to the track quite often to see some of best drag racing. I had no idea of where the guys came from but I sure did enjoy getting autographs and pictures of the cars so I could plaster them on my bedroom walls.

i sure will be following your journey and re living part of my youth 👍

[dragin70s]

Really looking forward to seeing your progression on such a great subject like this. Thanks for sharing.

[bytownshaker]

240 Gordie, will definitely be following. I also remember seeing the car run.

[Ian McLaren]

Although I just officially started this post yesterday, I have been chipping away at the body around finishing a 1/25 Beretta Promod for a friend.  The first photo is of the Flashpoint T/A body before the changes started next to a 1/25th Comp Resins body that wasn't much closer.  The modifications done to this point are, remove the front ProMod style air dam and replace it with a more stock style front spoiler that is also much narrower, the front fenders ahead of the wheel wells were also narrowed and also tucked under to visually narrow the nose of the car.  The side window openings have also been modified to be closer to the real car. the blower hole in the hood area has been roughly extended as the motor will sit out further forward than was allowed for in the body, and the hood profile in that area was flattened as well.  Blisters were also added above the front wheels to allow for a reduce ride height and also to provide move clearance at speed when the front of the body presses down due to the airflow (this was actually the primary reason the were installed on the cars back then).  The front wheel openings were move foward and up to better match the real cars 125 inch wheel base ( the Flashpoint body was built to fit the Revell chassis which measure 120 inch between the wheels).  Finally I trimmed the body sides of the car starting with1/16th inch shorter at the front wheel wells to 5/16th at the rear wheel wells to back date the look of the original body.  The body now looks much better but I am probably going to have to trim a little more for the correct look, but that will have to wait till the body can be set on the chassis at the correct ride height

[Tony Coomer]

Very kool project and great body work, looking forward to this build…

[DanL]

Saw 240 Gordie run many times here in Edmonton and spent my fair share of money at Pacemaker Automotive... Good memories

Cheers

DanL

[John B.]

I'm really looking forward to what you do with this one!

[Ian McLaren]

Thank you John, Here is a bit of an insight to what is going on.   This is my drawing of the Swindahl chassis that this car used, I'm still doing research on it but I'm pretty sure the bulk of it is fairly accurate.  The tapered chassis and front suspension were quite different from the norm.   Someone may have already modeled this chassis at some time but I;m not aware of and I'm almost positive it has never been offered in kit form.

Edited April 2 by Ian McLaren

[AmericanMuscleFan]

I really love your new project Ian!   As for Pro Stock, I prefer this era of Funny Cars where the body shell was more similar to their original version.  I'm getting on board with your project and I have a feeling we're going to have fun! 👍

[Ian McLaren]

4 hours ago, AmericanMuscleFan said:

I really love your new project Ian!   As for Pro Stock, I prefer this era of Funny Cars where the body shell was more similar to their original version.  I'm getting on board with your project and I have a feeling we're going to have fun! 👍

I'm glad you like it Francis,  I kind of thought this one might be in your wheel house, even though is has no doors.  I too like the era when you could tell what kind of car it was without having to look a the painted on grill and tail lamps.  I'm also going to put in more tips and tutorials on how I have done things, as there is still going to be quite a bit of scratch building on this one.

[Straightliner59]

8 hours ago, Ian McLaren said:

Someone may have already modeled this chassis at some time but I;m not aware of and I'm almost positive it has never been offered in kit form

I've never seen one, in either form. Looking forward to following along with this one, Ian!

[Nitro330]

Super cool project Ian!  Looking forward to watching this, especially that chassis.  Sounds like you have a wealth of knowledge and experience so I know it's going to be awesome.

[1320]

A great start Ian, we all look forward to the ride.

Jim

[Ian McLaren]

 

Chassis is moving from drawing to the assembly jig, construction now under way.

 

 

 

 

 

[Ian McLaren]

Further progress on the Swindahl style chassis, all major bars now in place, should be able tp assemble the basic chassis shortly

Edited April 5 by Ian McLaren

[Straightliner59]

2 hours ago, Ian McLaren said:

Further progress on the Swindahl style chassis, all major bars now in place, should be able tp assemble the basic chassis shortly

 

That chassis is looking good, Ian. Interesting that Swidahl built the front end, like a dragster--I guess he figured that, since that's what he was familiar with...Nice work, my friend!

[Ian McLaren]

Base chassis assembled, and some photos of how it was supported to soldered.  Also I posted the photos of how I made the bends in the rear upper bar using 3/32" brass tubing ,.060 white styrene rod stuffed in the tube and three drill bits to form the radius.  The tape was used to adjust the size accros the chassis and also to protect the brass tube from damage.  Simple and will work on most sizes of tube and a reasonable radius (not too tight)

[AmericanMuscleFan]

Great job Ian, the bending technique seems very effective, the results speak for themself! 👌

I was wondering why you use tubes instead of solid rods, are there any advantages or is it because that's what you had on hand?

[Ian McLaren]

Firstly, thank you Francis it does work fairly well.  When I read your question  it struck me as slightly odd and then I realized that it was a great question to which I didn't have an immeadiate answer.  When we had the fab shop, chassis were built with tube, with the only questions being 4130 or mild steel and what size.  I have always used tube for the vast majority of my chassis, but your question made me really think it through.  Rod would seem to have advantages, more surface area in the joints for better adhesion, bends could be made with out crushing, less likely to bend, so why not use it.  Tubing also has advantages, the open ends look right, butt joints with an internal sleeve are much stronger than any flush butt joint, it's much easier to drill a hole into the center cavity for a pin joint and perhaps the biggest one is that tubes are much easier to fishmouth than a rod, making fabrication some what quicker. Price wise the difference is very small and availability is usually good for both.  So the question remains why use tube instead if rods for a chassis?  Cause that's what their made of I guess. LOL

[iBorg]

Tubing is easier to solder as its easier to control the heat.

[Straightliner59]

6 hours ago, Ian McLaren said:

Firstly, thank you Francis it does work fairly well.  When I read your question  it struck me as slightly odd and then I realized that it was a great question to which I didn't have an immeadiate answer.  When we had the fab shop, chassis were built with tube, with the only questions being 4130 or mild steel and what size.  I have always used tube for the vast majority of my chassis, but your question made me really think it through.  Rod would seem to have advantages, more surface area in the joints for better adhesion, bends could be made with out crushing, less likely to bend, so why not use it.  Tubing also has advantages, the open ends look right, butt joints with an internal sleeve are much stronger than any flush butt joint, it's much easier to drill a hole into the center cavity for a pin joint and perhaps the biggest one is that tubes are much easier to fishmouth than a rod, making fabrication some what quicker. Price wise the difference is very small and availability is usually good for both.  So the question remains why use tube instead if rods for a chassis?  Cause that's what their made of I guess. LOL

I have to agree with your assessments. I typically prefer tube, for the same reasons you mentioned, chiefly that it's much easier to fishmouth. Generally, it's easier to bend, too, once the crimping issue is dealt with. Kudos to you, for your solution--I'll be borrowing that one, as soon as I finish kicking my own arse for not thinking of it, myself! 😅

My Surfers' chassis has 1/16" tube for the main section, behind the motor plate. Ahead of that required .055" diameter, so I found some brass wire in the jewelry section of a crafts store, and straightened it. The roll cage is larger, still, I don't recall its diameter, at the moment. Plastic rod would have worked perfectly to bend it. That's brilliant thinking, my friend! I think that project will find its way back to the bench, as soon as I finish my "quick and easy" Badman project--which is turning out to be neither, but, it's something I feel like I need to do, simply for nostalgia's sake. Just watching your work on this, has me itching. I appreciate that!

[AmericanMuscleFan]

20 hours ago, Ian McLaren said:

Cause that's what their made of I guess. LOL

Following your elaborate list of pros and cons of both options, I think your final answer is simply the best and logical explanation, why hadn't I thought of that!? 😁

I'll let the expert work his magic and take notes! 👍

[Ian McLaren]

15 hours ago, Straightliner59 said:

I have to agree with your assessments. I typically prefer tube, for the same reasons you mentioned, chiefly that it's much easier to fishmouth. Generally, it's easier to bend, too, once the crimping issue is dealt with. Kudos to you, for your solution--I'll be borrowing that one, as soon as I finish kicking my own arse for not thinking of it, myself! 😅

My Surfers' chassis has 1/16" tube for the main section, behind the motor plate. Ahead of that required .055" diameter, so I found some brass wire in the jewelry section of a crafts store, and straightened it. The roll cage is larger, still, I don't recall its diameter, at the moment. Plastic rod would have worked perfectly to bend it. That's brilliant thinking, my friend! I think that project will find its way back to the bench, as soon as I finish my "quick and easy" Badman project--which is turning out to be neither, but, it's something I feel like I need to do, simply for nostalgia's sake. Just watching your work on this, has me itching. I appreciate that!

Daniel your brass work is incredible, it's you I'm trying to keep up with.  I can't wait for you to bring the Surfers chassis back out so I can pick your brain some more.

[Tony Coomer]

Great work and soldering…