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Posted

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What a cool shot! I agree about the tinwork. If it doesn't need to be a natural metal finish, I don't see any reason not to use the plastic. The windshield installation is going to be killer! Are you going to make rivets? I like to use model RR plastic rivets, then "deform" the opposite end, to create the "trapping action".

Posted

Working on cleaning up the body for the final primer coat so that the base white can be applied, permanent front motor mounts completed,working on decals for the front grills and headlamps these are just test shots on regular paper so that sizing for the final decals can be determined.

 

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  • Like 3
Posted (edited)

Unsolicited tip for 1/16th modelers. After tearing my hair out trying to get 1/16th scale funnycar fire windows to look right, I found a cheap and exceptionally easy solution at a model railroad shop and they even come with precut glazing and scale out to 4 inches square.

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Edited by Ian McLaren
  • Like 3
Posted

All of the major pieces now fit together including the windshield, after a couple of channel adjustments were made. One more coat of primer and a sanding with 1500 grit will see the body ready for the white base coat.

 

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  • Like 3
Posted

Nice! Body looks excellent!  Great tip with the model RR windows, too! I have used a ton of railroad modeling items, over the decades. HO handrail stanchions are still my go to, for rod ends/heim joints. Nut/bolt/washer castings, too.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Well it's official, I'm going with scratch built brass headers.  Jig is set up and header height and exit positions have been determined.  Test bending the first brass pipe to lock down the degrees of bend required to get the proper rear sweep and outward angle of the pipe exits.  Should have all eight pipes bent and rough cut to size later today.  I want to have the actual header fabrication jigs built in the next couple of days and the headers done by the end of the weekend

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Edited by Ian McLaren
  • Like 1
Posted

First of the header flanges drilled for the pipes, these serve two purposes, one is to add detail to the headers (even though the LPH1320 has superb details cast in) and second to act as part of assembly jig to set the pipe spacing at the head face while soldering. The head itself can't be used due to the heat involved. The spacing of the holes is 8.8MM C to C, to match the holes in the LPH1320 Keith Black printed heads

 

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  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Basic headers fabricated and fit to the engine, still have flanges braces and detail to add, but the hard part is done.   Rear pipe on right side has to have the tip shortened slightly (very minor)

 

 

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Headers were built in ajig to assure they were straight and level

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Both sides mounted and initially adjusted, final positioning will be done once they are permanently attached to the engine when details , flanges and waterline fittings are attached

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Edited by Ian McLaren
  • Like 1
Posted
On 7/21/2024 at 8:19 AM, Tony Coomer said:

Great fab work on the headers, they look fantastic…

Thank you Tony, more to come on them including images of the jigs used for fabrication and clean up

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
On 8/18/2024 at 5:02 AM, Straightliner59 said:

I love it! Looks just like it ought to. Can't wait to see the paint and graphics finished!

Thanks Daniel, I thought so too and then I took a closer look at my reference material.  Out came the sand paper tape and airbrush and I widened the front of the green, lowered the edge o0f the Blue stripe and remved and repainted the Red stripe.   It is now much closer to the original car, this whole deal was very agravating but completely my fault.  It did take an hour and some to make the corrections but I am much happier with it now,

 

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Edited by Ian McLaren
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
6 minutes ago, Ian McLaren said:
3 hours ago, bobthehobbyguy said:

Stunning work. A tutorial in s c ratchbuilding.

Thank you very much Bob, yes their are a bunch of pieces on this car that were unique, mostly related to the chassis.Luckily most of the work one the backdating of the body was pretty straight forward. Have to switch back to the chassis as I am now held up waiting for the decals to finish off the paint scheme

 

Edited by Ian McLaren

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