About to quit using MCW clear gloss - need suggestions or tips

[SpeedShift]

I'm just about ready to quit using MCW clear gloss enamel.

Maybe I'm doing something wrong and you guys may have some tips on how to address the issue.

While I liked the results using regular MCW enamel with their hardener, my experience so far with the MCW clear gloss and hardener has been a disappointment.

My first experience ended up with not just orange peel - but orange lumps on some of the surface.

I had to sand off the gloss coat to get the surface level again. That required respraying much of the MCW white enamel base coat where the white color got removed.

After sanding, polishing and cleaning the body and getting the nice white base back, I thought I might give the gloss another try.

Today is a nice day, low humidity.

I figured the problem with the first attempt was not thinning the gloss clear enough when I airbrushed it - I had used the MCW gloss and the MCW gloss hardener per their ratio , with just a drop of Tamiya lacquer thinner.

Maybe that was too thick, not thinned enough.

This morning, after cleaning the body with a Testors Model Master tack cloth, I did a near 1 to 1 thinner ratio to the same 2 to 1 gloss(#1017E)/gloss hardener (#1017EH) and decided to go with light mist coats first.

Well, the mist coats went on ok - but had some slight eggshell surface texture.  When I attempted to apply the final wet coat -  it did the orange peel /lumps thing again.

Didn't seem to want to level out at all.

I have a new GREX airbrush, spraying with a static tank pressure of 30 which goes to 20 when applying paint.

My feeling - what's the point continuing with this gloss clear...if I have to keep wet sanding the gloss off if I want to get a smooth surface.

 

Not sure where to go ........I don't have any Furure/Pledge and I didn't like the results using Quick Shine on clear windshields...it dried very wavy.

If there is a decent clear gloss that will work with MCW enamel I might try that.

I like the faster drying time of MCW enamel with their enamel hardener, - it dries quicker, thereby avoiding the dust accumulation of a longer dry/cure of Testors enamel.

 

Edited June 7, 2024 by SpeedShift
add picture

[64SS350]

I could be wrong, but that looks more like heavy fish eye. Something not playing nice together and separating. But I haven't used the enamel yet.

Edited June 7, 2024 by 64SS350

[SpeedShift]

"Something not playing nice together and separating. But I haven't used the enamel yet."

While I've heard the term, I'm not sure what to look for regarding fisheye problems and what causes them.

Seems to me that MCW's own brand clear gloss enamel should be compatible with their base coat enamels.

But maybe you are on to something.

What does fish eyes in paint mean?

Generally speaking, that contaminant is light oil (silicon), which has, by whatever means, found its way to the surface of the vehicle.

When paint is applied on top of this contaminant, the paint is unable to adhere to the oily surface and a “fish eye crater” is caused.

Is it possible that the Testors tack cloth leaves a slight wax film on the surface if pressed hard enough, and that area on the model surface repels the paint leveling out and pooling. ?

 

Edited June 7, 2024 by SpeedShift

[ksnow]

Or other things in your shop environment that may settle out on the body. Any silicone stuff anywhere will lead to fisheyes in paint.

[SpeedShift]

12 minutes ago, ksnow said:

Or other things in your shop environment that may settle out on the body. Any silicone stuff anywhere will lead to fisheyes in paint.

I was working in my office den which is clean (not a garage or basement) ...all painting was done outside with low humidity and with good ventilation.

[peteski]

I don't trust tack cloths!

  I wash my models with dishwashing detergent (ike Joy - with no hand softeners added), blow the water off with clean compressed air (use oil separator and moisture trap), then let it sit covered to dry thoroughly).

[SpeedShift]

2 hours ago, peteski said:

I don't trust tack cloths!

  I wash my models with dishwashing detergent (ike Joy - with no hand softeners added), blow the water off with clean compressed air (use oil separator and moisture trap), then let it sit covered to dry thoroughly).

I won't use the tack cloth again.

Unless I'm missing something, I think the MCW website needs to post some warnings on how best to achieve a gloss finish with their enamel (a what to do - what to avoid). 

When I called and spoke to the guy at MCW, he said he didn't think their enamels needed a gloss applied, they were glossy enough.

Yes, the finish is pretty good as is.

But my experience: if you try and polish out the finish or get a dust particle or blemish that requires you to wet sand/polish off, the glossy finish goes away.

Since they sell a gloss enamel and hardener to go with their enamel line and I followed their mixing ratios, if a tack cloth is the culprit due to a waxy residue that fisheyes their enamel  - that should be one of the warnings.

 

 

 

Edited June 8, 2024 by SpeedShift

[Rick L]

Definitely a fisheye problem. Any oil residue can also cause this. Be sure to also wash your hands when handling anything before paint.

[Nicholas]

I use the Mr hobby slow drying lacquer thinner and their hardner … NEVER. Fails to get a gloss shine,… what I have been doing lately is wet sanding the debris out then using MCW 2 k clear instead of their 1K yellow looking bottle of clear  so now instead of trying to buff after wet sanding I go straight for the 2K and clear it I will say this I had absolutely NO. Luck with hardware store bought straight lacquer thinner it left a crappy finish.. use the Mr hobby self leveling thinner 

[SpeedShift]

3 hours ago, Nicholas said:

I use the Mr hobby slow drying lacquer thinner and their hardner … NEVER. Fails to get a gloss shine,… what I have been doing lately is wet sanding the debris out then using MCW 2 k clear instead of their 1K yellow looking bottle of clear  so now instead of trying to buff after wet sanding I go straight for the 2K and clear it I will say this I had absolutely NO. Luck with hardware store bought straight lacquer thinner it left a crappy finish.. use the Mr hobby self leveling thinner 

"what I have been doing lately is wet sanding the debris out then using MCW 2 k clear instead of their 1K yellow looking bottle of clear"

To be clear (no pun intended) is that MCW clear gloss enamel (1017E 2K) with their hardener (1017EH) over their enamel ...or are you using MCW lacquer?

 

Thanks for the tip on Mr Hobby self-leveling thinner.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited June 8, 2024 by SpeedShift

[Nicholas]

Yes it’s the 1017e with hardner, I used to use the 10003e? I think one that looks like honey, kinda gold looking 

[Speedpro]

My opinion doesn't matter so I'll just keep my thoughts to myself. Sorry for wasting your time!

Edited June 10, 2024 by Speedpro

[bobss396]

I gave up on enamels a long time ago. BUT... I was using Testors and home-center enamels. Lacquers and acrylic-lacquers I have very little problems with. The MCW stuff is probably a ton better. I'm also lazy and don't have a dedicated place to build, so no airbrush, although I own 4 of them.

Edited June 9, 2024 by bobss396
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[FoMoCo66]

Here's a little video. What ever he's doing seems to work. Looks like he's using Mr Hobby Leveling Thinner.

 

Edited June 9, 2024 by FoMoCo66
Wrong Video

[SpeedShift]

Thanks for your help everyone.

Think I'll give MCW 2k another try.

I'll ditch the tack cloth next time, and I ordered Mr. Hobby Self Leveling Thinner to use with the MCW 2K clear and hardener.

 

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