Rick L

Paint the door edges first. Tape the doors shut from the inside. Sand down any overspray before painting the outside.

My major source for raw materials has always been McMaster-Carr. You can build quite the Winnebago with the 1/32X40”X72” (or smaller) polystyrene sheet available on their website.

Not if you have a z stop.

No need to prime. Wet sand with a super fine grit and spray the lacquer over it.

Using agar was an unusual approach but considering you're only making one duplicate, I thought cool why not. You’re going to toss the mold away when you’re done. I thought the video and technique was informative enough for the average modeler to understand. Regardless of material used.

Agree! Being a collectible, you should keep it as original as possible. Any collector would notice a total repair and it’s value would be lost.

You can purchase a .005x24”x24” square sheet of polycarbonate film from McMaster-Carr for under $3.00.

I helped a friend with his train layout years ago collecting homasote fibers through a jointer. As I recall, he added his plaster material in the same manner.

If you’re heat forming, the plastics mentioned will work fine. Avoid polycarbonate films. They’re too tough to work with.

You don’t want thin acrylic for flexibility. Too brittle.

The thinnest acrylic available is 1/32.

To get a flat even half round out of tubing, lay the .08 tube down on a flat surface with double sided tape and sandwich each side with a flat layer of .04 shim stock along the lengths also taped to the flat surface. Sand down the tube length wise with a sanding block until you reach the shim stock.

Good question. Unless you have access to a milling machine, I can’t answer that.

Or if he loves the color that much, he’ll buy one.😆

The old Testors paint was lead based and would cover well. The new version are lead free and don’t cover well without primer. Lacquer will cover better but does not brush on as smoothly as the enamel. The routine process is to wash the parts of mold release agent in warm water with a few drops of Dawn detergent, rinse with clean water, let dry and prime everything before paint.

Wow! That chip is huge! I’d sand the whole car down to the bare plastic and start over. 🤣 just kidding. I’m with Pete on this one. I can barely see the chip. A little touch up and no one will notice unless you tell them.

If we all built models the same way, this forum need not exist.

As a last resort I’d try adding denatured alcohol to the mix before giving up on it.

Amazing! 39 replies on how to open a stuck bottle cap.🤣

Hunt down and skin a 1/25 scale alligator.

I think this 49 Ford is a re-pop and I agree with the other posters that this is one fine kit with nice options. It will not disappoint.

Perfect simplicity.

Sweet!

Very clean build. Thanks for sharing.

I spent 40 years building mockups, engineering prototypes and mold masters for short run casting. Mostly for the medical diagnostic field. That casting is one of many enclosures we produced for a long time client.