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Everything posted by Rick L
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To get a flat even half round out of tubing, lay the .08 tube down on a flat surface with double sided tape and sandwich each side with a flat layer of .04 shim stock along the lengths also taped to the flat surface. Sand down the tube length wise with a sanding block until you reach the shim stock.
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Good question. Unless you have access to a milling machine, I can’t answer that.
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Another Can Of Testor's Bites The Dust
Rick L replied to oldcarfan's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Or if he loves the color that much, he’ll buy one.? -
The old Testors paint was lead based and would cover well. The new version are lead free and don’t cover well without primer. Lacquer will cover better but does not brush on as smoothly as the enamel. The routine process is to wash the parts of mold release agent in warm water with a few drops of Dawn detergent, rinse with clean water, let dry and prime everything before paint.
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Repairing Paint Chipping - Tamiya Lacquer and 2k clear
Rick L replied to DiscoRover007's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
Wow! That chip is huge! I’d sand the whole car down to the bare plastic and start over. ? just kidding. I’m with Pete on this one. I can barely see the chip. A little touch up and no one will notice unless you tell them. -
Unconventional Materials - From the jewelry area
Rick L replied to Jiml0001's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
If we all built models the same way, this forum need not exist. -
Loosen the lid on Testors enamel square bottles.
Rick L replied to R. Thorne's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
Amazing! 39 replies on how to open a stuck bottle cap.? -
Looking for the "best" '49-'54 Ford Sedan Kit
Rick L replied to Bill Anderson's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I think this 49 Ford is a re-pop and I agree with the other posters that this is one fine kit with nice options. It will not disappoint. -
Perfect simplicity.
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Very clean build. Thanks for sharing.
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I spent 40 years building mockups, engineering prototypes and mold masters for short run casting. Mostly for the medical diagnostic field. That casting is one of many enclosures we produced for a long time client.
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Also note that some casting materials, particularly polyurethanes, need to be cast at higher temps in order for their properties to work. Or they become brittle when fully cured. This mold is set in an oven preheated to 150 degrees before injection cast with 2 part urethane mix.
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Meanwhile, the inventor of that simple little part is laying under a palm tree somewhere, sipping Pina coladas
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Generally, the longer the pot life the less heat will be produced. If you’re working with small parts with thin walls such as small scale model car parts you shouldn’t have any issues with the castings. The mixing cup on the other hand may be an issue if it’s a fast curing plastic or epoxy such as the reaction Bill experienced. If you’re unsure of the reaction you may get just cast the part and leave the mold and mixing cup outside.
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Sprayng Molotow chrome; anyone here ever done it?
Rick L replied to Roadrunner's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
These velocity stacks were made from plexiglass and spray painted directly with Molotow. This was my fist experiment spraying plastic without primer. They’re holding up fine. -
Also works well for mixing bondo or any other polyester resin.
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How Stable Is The Plastic Used In 3D Printing?
Rick L replied to oldcarfan's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
3D models are printed by FDM (fused deposition modeling) or SLA (stereo lithography). Most FDM parts are printed with styrene and are fairly stable. All SLA parts are formed by a UV sensitive resin, are hygroscopic and expand over time. Don’t confuse the SLA resin parts with your cast resin body parts that are molded with a two part polymer. These are also fairly stable but can warp if not properly stored over time. Like sitting in a box jammed with other parts. -
CA and cotton don’t mix. Your cotton swab had an exothermic reaction to the glue and got hot creating that bad vapor. As a warning to all modelers, be careful with cleaning a large spill of CA with a cotton rag. The reaction will get nasty and possibly catch on fire.
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Staining a plastic model kit
Rick L replied to ModelerGuy's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
There are many excellent techniques of painting wood grain already on this site. Your only problem is to decide which one you want to use. -
Using CA glue to smooth 3D printed items
Rick L replied to GLMFAA1's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
This is not a good method. An open container of CA is pretty nasty stuff on your sinuses in large volume. Be careful to use ventilation if you choose to go that route. -
Is this a result of poorly mixed or thinned paint?
Rick L replied to Milo's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
No one true answer without knowing more info. If the paint is coming out of the gun like that, the paint may not be thin enough or the airflow could be too high. Is the paint old? Old Testors paint does not thin well with enamel thinner. You could try using lacquer thinner instead. To avoid this problem, most modelers experiment by spraying paint samples on plastic spoons or scrap styrene before attempting to paint their work. -
If they are the issued bottles they will accommodate lacquer. Test them with lacquer. If it melts, they’re useless anyway. You can write to Paasche for glass replacements.