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Everything posted by Rick L
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If concerned about cost, you can Google many videos on building your own. You’ll find multiple heat and vacuum sources that would fit your budget. If you don’t have the resources to build a simple box, a handy man could easily put one together for you for a reasonable price.
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It would be easier to label the short list of things that don’t cause cancer in California.
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Vacuum formed windows help
Rick L replied to Len Woodruff's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Hi Len PETG is fairly hygroscopic. Meaning it will absorb moisture if not properly stored. If your plastic is old, My guess is that steam is forming between the plastic and buck. Again I will say this is only a guess. I’ve never experienced this problem because I’ve always been supplied with fresh plastic. Good luck my friend and please keep me posted on your results if you find the culprit. -
Rattle can "glop" leakage
Rick L replied to plasticprime's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Shake it to get the heavier sediment from the bottom. If you don’t you’ll wind up with just the solvent. -
Rattle can "glop" leakage
Rick L replied to plasticprime's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Go outside, shake the can, empty the air, place a nail to the bottom of can and cover with a rag. While holding the rag over the nail, puncture side of can at the bottom, repeat at side top of the can. The leakage is minimal. Drain vented can into glass jar. -
Alternatives to bare metal foil
Rick L replied to khier's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
The quality of BMF depends on the underlying paint finish. The smoother your paint finish the smoother the BMF will appear. Mig chrome sheets are slightly thicker and look better than BMF (IMO), on straight and subtle curved surfaces only. If you’re looking to get down into ultra fine detail, BMF is the only way to go. There is plenty of debate on this subject and I’m sure you’ll get all of those opinions following this so you’ll have to judge for yourself. -
Rattle can "glop" leakage
Rick L replied to plasticprime's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I agree with this method and I would shake it before decanting. That way, you may not have to add anything to the mix. -
The reason for cross sanding is just to be sure you have completed the last grit thoroughly. For example if you you want a 6000 finish and you sanded with 4000 right to left in the beginning you would sand the 6000 up and down until all of the right and left scratches are gone.
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You should sand the sheen off of the resin body.
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Thanks Pete. Much appreciated.
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I found this on ebay. It measures .02 dia. which would be 1/2 in real scale but I don’t think it’s too glaring on the model.
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Thought I’d try something different to get a spark plug and wire setup. I first dipped the wire into a bottle of flat black lacquer. You can add thickness by adding multiple dips after the previous coat dries. The next step was a dip in gloss white lacquer making sure the black exposed were all the same length. Next I drilled out the heads and pushed the wire through making sure the white exposed was the same length. Then bent the wire inside the head over, added a drop of CA and a quick spray of water to kick it quickly. I used lacquer paint because it can hold up to a little bend when I install the wires into the distributor.
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I line my paint booth with a Boston Sunday Globe I bought back in 2005 for a couple of bucks. Still have plenty of pages left.
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Part ID - 1/12 '57 Chevy
Rick L replied to Maindrian Pace's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I agree withJames. They’re made for constantly open hood display. -
Part ID - 1/12 '57 Chevy
Rick L replied to Maindrian Pace's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
What kit is it from? -
Type site:modelcarsmag.com embossing Into your search engine and it will give you extensive reading on the subject.
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If anyone is interested, there’s a huge model railroad auction at Trudels auction house in Bellingham Ma. Saturday 02/18/23. They claim over $250,000 value. You can check out items on Trudels website.
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You got a great deal! I had used flocking to recreate a scale model of a 70’s conversion van a friend of mine owned. He had shag rug from walls to ceiling. It was a perfect match. To recreate a tuxedo carpet however, you may have better luck with embossing powder.
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Why the orange peel disaster?
Rick L replied to Sidney Schwartz's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Is the green enamel and the clear lacquer by chance? -
That is a good question Joe. If painting lacquer You can wait until you are finished with the paint job if your steps are 15 minutes apart. Then you can break down the gun and clean it thoroughly. If longer than 15 minutes I’d run a little lacquer thinner through between steps.
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I did the the same thing on this AMT 55 Chevy. A little Tamiya putty and flat black spray. Close enough.
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So there we have it guys. Size doesn’t matter after all.
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Don’t be discouraged. The process is simple. Go online and check out the tutorials. You can buy a small kit and experiment on a junk part.
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As I had mentioned before, Smooth-On has informative info for the novice. The four part mold was thrown in to show the potential.
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