Rick L

My assumption was you were looking for a dash with console. Sorry I don’t have much for junk yard parts. Good luck, I hope you find it.

I’ve got this dash and console from the Revell ‘90 Mustang LX 5.0 drag racer.

? Our best lessons are from our mistakes. The dry brush technique works very well. Start with a light base color and work darker shades each layer. Making sure each layer of paint is dry before laying on the next works best for me. It gives the grain more definition.

If you put your finger over the nozzle and push the button you will cause the air to back flush through the bowl. In the trade I painted with a more advanced DeVilbis suction feed gun. After removing the needle a few times, the packing would get loose and the paint would flutter, not bubble. Tightening the packing nut would relieve that problem. In the hobby I use a Grex and I agree with using airbrush lubricant only.

The probable cause of bubbles in the cup may be a blockage in the nozzle. That blockage could be caused by leaving the paint in the gun idle too long without running a little thinner through. I’m not saying this IS the problem but if it is, your going to have the same problem with your real airbrush.

Welcome Jarred to eliminate the orange peel try heating the paint can in hot tap water before spraying. Do three coats. First, a light mist coat. Second, a medium coat and last a wet coat. Be patient between coats. Be sure each coat is dry before spraying the next. I like the stance by the way.

1979 and priced at 72.9 per gallon. Yikes!!!

It’s like a boat. You buy one and the next year you want a bigger one.?

I would put a tiny drop of CA where you want the mirror located on the windshield. Grab the mirror with a pair of tweezers, dab the base of the mirror with a tiny bit of accelerator and place the mirror on. Be careful this is a one shot deal. Being experienced you know it’s going to kick the minute the two components touch. Obviously the smallest amount you use the better it will look.

Looks to me like you were pretty focused to make that build. Welcome Eric.

I don’t understand. If the master is involved with both pours of the mold how is it eliminating the spacing.

Why two sets of molds, why not save the male half of the old mold as your diking for the next mold if your running production. Spray the mold half with release agent. Slide master onto mold half. Build box around mold half with master. Pour rubber into box. Remove old male half. Pour rubber to create new male half. PRESTO! New mold.

Salty Dog was a classic album.

It’s a short run casting of a housing. I build the master in 4 sections on a 3 axis mill from model board.

I could be crusin along the highway at 60, in no particular hurry when Runin down a dream from Tom Petty comes on and find I’m doing 95 when it ends.

Incompatible materials would be clay with sulfur in it or using latex gloves. When mixing the rubber. Unfortunately it’s a trade secret how this molds diking was made but I can show you this photo and tell you that plexiglass was involved.

“Zoomie” 7 years old and still acts like a kitten.

Talk about expensive molds. Have a gander at this mold and casting.

Welcome to the forum Dan. That’s a nice build. Looking forward to your next build in 55 years! By then I’ll be 122. ?

That thing has some possibilities. ? Keep us posted.

Congratulations Mike! Retirement is highly underrated. It’s nice to have the liberty of not having a deadline.

Two thumbs up!

I agree with you on the confusion Pete. I’ve been in the model making business for over 40 years and the term acrylic was used loosely. Basically acrylic is a clear polymer. Plexiglas is acrylic. As far as I can tell, the hobbyist refer acrylic to water and alcohol soluble paints.

That’s because it went faster in reverse.