Rick L

I didn’t know Arm & Hammer gave out modeling advice!?

Agree with you Trevor. I also use clear fingernail polish for its viscosity.

Good file for the money.

Wanderful?

I wonder if it wanders?

Unfortunately, you don’t know what quality you’re going to get when ordering printed parts. Some vendors print out parts with high resolution, resulting in a clean soother finish, or step up the speed of production with low resolution, producing poor results. Low res is useless for detailed parts because you’re going to lose the detail from filling and sanding. Low res is only good for plain surfaces and still it’s a lot of work to fill. To answer your question, I have found Evercoat polyester glazing putty to work best for this application because it doesn’t shrink like other brands. May I suggest to anyone looking to purchase printed parts to check with the forums view on the merchants products. Or give a shout-out to the better vendors.

Hey Snake I for one miss your input. As a matter of fact the whole gang here on the forum wish you a happy and speedy recovery. The vote was 467 to 3. ?

The basic answer your going to get is,” it varies”. Your better off asking what technique would apply using a specific airbrush with a specific paint. That way someone familiar with your airbrush could give you a more detailed answer.

Agree with Ace. It may also help to sand the mating side of the styrene with a coarse grit sandpaper.

Spot on Steve. I’m also impressed with the interior door handles. What was your source?

That is quite impressive. Especially the consideration of clearance for paint in a snap together, working model.

I agree with with Steve and would emphasize not to skip on the primer. Light grey primer will bring out any flaws the body has before you paint. It’s better to sand out the flaws now than after you lay on the black.

Maybe get around it by ordering DA through Amazon? Although isopropyl is the closest option, it is not the same.

Well there ya go!?

What ever the technique chosen, A little trial and error would be in store. I agree with Doug’s original idea in that the bb’s would make a smooth dent. The Dremel bit would be on the rough side.

Heat the bb’s instead of the plastic. Then pour the bb’s over the cold plastic.

Bobby Rydell’s never heard of you either.

Back in 60’s Bobby Rydell had 34 top 100 hits with a net worth of over ten million when he died. If you were old enough you would know who he was.

Bobby Rydell also passed away.

Ok I’ve got the pliers. Where is my cat anyway?

CA will work as a filler but large quantities can be nasty to breathe. Be sure you’re well ventilated. Another application available by Smooth-On is XTC-3D, specifically made for that purpose.

My assumption was you were looking for a dash with console. Sorry I don’t have much for junk yard parts. Good luck, I hope you find it.

I’ve got this dash and console from the Revell ‘90 Mustang LX 5.0 drag racer.

? Our best lessons are from our mistakes. The dry brush technique works very well. Start with a light base color and work darker shades each layer. Making sure each layer of paint is dry before laying on the next works best for me. It gives the grain more definition.

If you put your finger over the nozzle and push the button you will cause the air to back flush through the bowl. In the trade I painted with a more advanced DeVilbis suction feed gun. After removing the needle a few times, the packing would get loose and the paint would flutter, not bubble. Tightening the packing nut would relieve that problem. In the hobby I use a Grex and I agree with using airbrush lubricant only.