Rick L

Very pretty! I have that kit waiting on a shelf and you have have just convinced me what my next build will be. I did notice a warp issue on the interior bucket on my kit. Could you give me a heads up on any issues you had? Thank you for sharing Asmir.

Jerry I’m sure your wife will appreciate that wrecker model you picked up for her.?

We used to go trout fishing every year on the Connecticut lakes in New Hampshire and jump over the Canadian border for Laurentide Biere. That, a couple of loaves of bread and a bunch of bologna and we were all set. Unfortunately, Molson stopped brewing it years ago. Coincidentally, that’s around the same time we stopped going trout fishing on the Connecticut lakes in New Hanpshire.

I thought it was one of those soap dispensers you see in restrooms.

The solvents in the “stinky” paints help it adhere to the solvent sensitive styrene where water base obviously doesn’t have that feature. I would suggest solvent based primer for water based paint as example for a two tone paint job. Some tapes may pull the water base paint up from bare plastic.

Nice idea. Thanks for sharing.

To prevent orange peel you need better atomization. If using rattle cans, keep them stored at a higher room temperature. Not in a cold basement. Or place them in a hot tap water bath for 15 minutes and be sure to shake it well before painting. Some manufacturers suggest shaking for one minute. The higher temp will increase the pressure and lay the paint down smoother. Do not use boiling water ?. Also be sure the outside of the can is free of water before painting. One drop of water will ruin the paint job. If airbrushing, either add more thinner, increase air pressure or do both. You need to experiment to get it just right but the idea is to get finer particles of paint onto your model.

? go ahead load up!!!

I agree with MEK. I use it often. But for the folks who are not familiar with straight MEK, keep in mind, it is pretty hot and can dissolve small styrene parts quickly if not applied carefully. Still cost effective, it also evaporates very quickly and sales are becoming regulated in some states due to the environmental bla,bla,bla. Keep it well sealed and If you’re lucky enough to have a spare refrigerator, it will keep the evaporation process and your wife’s temper down.

That is beautiful. I like the foil work. As far as foils go, nothing beats BMF. The closest thing I have found to it is from Uline that is .001 thick. It works very well for flat and large radius surfaces but any tight corners and fine details will eventually come up. I have not tried the new BMF. I’ve read quite a few complaints about it and hopefully they will go back to their original supplier.

You’re right! I use it for cooking.

You have a PM

You may want to check with SfanGoch before posting any further.

Who are you? The Shell answer man? It’s an ALTERNATIVE. That’s what this forum is for. ?

I just polished off a bottle of Chianti and realized the straw material would make a good source for modeling wood. Measuring .010 thick, 1/2” - 3/4” wide and 5” long it would make a good alternative to cigar tube liners if you don’t have them. In the photo, the first two were stained with minwax stain and the third is natural.

It’s also important to keep your files in their separate pouches so they won’t bang into each other and get dull.

Love that color Bob. I see you’re getting accustomed to painting. Great improvement from some of your first posts. And since you’re not a rookie anymore, we will be expecting perfection from her on in.? just kidding!! I enjoy your posts.

Click on Noblng’s replies for more information.

The key thing on flocking or embossing is to lay your glue or paint evenly. That’s why it’s watered down some. Then be very liberal with the material and shake it around if possible . Do not tamp it down or brush it around. This will result in uneven clumps. Let it dry, turn it upside down and tap the excess over paper. The results will be the same as these wonderful examples.

Very nice job on that tiger maple base.

If you paint your base the same color of the flock and use clear glue, you will have a more uniform look.

This might not be what your looking for but the closest thing I can think of would be to look at fly tying fur from Bass Pro Shop, Orvis or other outfitters . It comes on the pelt but is longer than scale shag. You could either cut it down from the pelt with scissors or hair clippers and use the pelt on flat surfaces and flock the cutoff on curved. There are options for colors squirrel, rabbit, elk, deer and others. Or try a white fur and dye it pink!

Patrick isn’t assuming anything. He’s only giving input. If you have the tools available, so be it. If you don’t, keep looking for alternatives that are offered on the discussion. That’s what the forum is about. There is no one answer.

If it’s .031 thick, you’re going to spend a long time scribing with an Xacto blade. The Dremel is a better idea. If you’re using a large sheet, rough cut the material and trim your final cut from that.

An Emco unimat lathe is very convenient to have. I’ve worked with a larger model for years. Easy to set up, accurate, low maintenance and durable.