Rick L

Water is also a solvent. When Pete refers to solvent based paint he is referring to lacquer or enamel.

I remember the old neighborhood that was built after WW2 and all the neighbors that bought homes and had kids at the same time. Everyone looked after each other and watched the kids. The mom’s and dad’s were everyone’s mom’s and dad’s. I remember when my parents didn’t lock the house up when we went out for the day. I remember gas was 29.9 cents a gallon and $3.00 would fill a VW beetle only if it was almost bone dry. I remember the pledge of allegiance in school. I remember when everyone had respect for the president of our country no matter what party affiliation. I remember the end of my good old days when Jack Kennedy was killed and conspiracy theories flew. Resulting in the lack of respect for government and authority. This is strictly the version of my world growing up and I know other people had theirs that may counter mine. But all I can say is those were the good old days to me and they were happy ones.

Exactly.

Everyone is entitled to an opinion. I may not quite understand your intention but please keep in mind that expressing those opinions of someone’s work could be hurtful to some young kid who thinks his model is worth sharing on this site.

Wow! How’d you get that car to sit on it’s side? ? just kidding. That looks awesome.

Unfortunately, this may be a flaw in the resin casting. Some polyurethane resins are quick curing parts A and B and one of those parts are not mixed correctly before they are mixed for casting. This results in a web of uncured plastic inside and protruding to the outside of the part. You may have to dig it out a little or the web will keep bleeding out under the paint. You can use any stripper suggested for the paint used. It shouldn’t effect the plastic but look carefully at the area that inhibited the paint to see if there is a dark hairline web. That’s the critter you have to dig out before repainting or it will happen again.

Have you tried painting something other than a resin casting.

The flat spot in the belly is to get the body to sit slightly lower for the tires that I’m using.

“33” from Revell. One of the poorest designed models I’ve worked on. The roof, windshield and windows were a separate unit from the body???? It took a lot of bodywork to hide the seam. I also filled in the trunk line.

Personally, I think 12,000 might be a little overkill. The Novus will take over pretty well. I stoped at 2000 on this 33.

Yes. Starting with light, medium, then full coat. Light sand any dust then the gloss will do the rest. You are correct that the gloss will fade a bit but it will still be smoother and ready for high grit sanding and a Novus 2 buffer. BE SURE IT’S DRY. The longer you wait the harder the paint will get. I’m talking days not hours. Don’t concentrate sanding on high areas like door handles, trim, or hard outside corners. There is less paint in those areas than on the flat surfaces and you will break through. Once you get a uniform flat finish on the flat surfaces the Novus will meld it all in.

Mucho better! What do you think?

Yes, keep making passes till it gets that wet uniform look all around. Then stop. There’s a fine line where the paint will stay and when it will run but just be sure to keep the spay can moving.

Yes

You need to go wetter.

I use a Grex and have had no issue to this point but with your input I can avoid any surprises. Thank You for posting.

LOL! ? I totally misunderstood which way you were bending. You’ve got this.

The options are not ideal. But they are options.

Let me know how your solvent glue works. If you’re not satisfied my offer still stands. All I need to know is the radius of the half round rod and radius of the curve you want to bend and I can cast that shape with the flat in the back for you and send you as many rings as you need.

Half round stock will roll over when bending. Even when heated. The challenge to this is keeping it hot while bending and keeping the flat of the curve on plane with the straight. It cools too quickly to control.

Thanks for sharing.

How did you make out with the Pledge?

Moving right along, I finished my master and made silicone rubber molds to cast solid vacuum form plugs. I formed the halves with .062 thick polystyrene. I will attach a .03 flange all around the top half with MEK and pass them around to friends. The last photo shows a converted master top for my personal use. I’m planning on casting this with a clear .062 PETG sheet in order to mask off the canopy and paint the rest. This will look similar to the 2013 GM belly tank.

If you have no luck, I can cast half round radius doughnuts for you in polyurethane. That way you can cut it to any tangent angle with a razor blade place it on the corner and attach straight strips with CA. A little filler putty on the joint and your done. Send me a PM and I’ll guide you on the numbers I need.

That will be a challenge.