Rick L

Unfortunately, this may be a flaw in the resin casting. Some polyurethane resins are quick curing parts A and B and one of those parts are not mixed correctly before they are mixed for casting. This results in a web of uncured plastic inside and protruding to the outside of the part. You may have to dig it out a little or the web will keep bleeding out under the paint. You can use any stripper suggested for the paint used. It shouldn’t effect the plastic but look carefully at the area that inhibited the paint to see if there is a dark hairline web. That’s the critter you have to dig out before repainting or it will happen again.

Have you tried painting something other than a resin casting.

The flat spot in the belly is to get the body to sit slightly lower for the tires that I’m using.

“33” from Revell. One of the poorest designed models I’ve worked on. The roof, windshield and windows were a separate unit from the body???? It took a lot of bodywork to hide the seam. I also filled in the trunk line.

Personally, I think 12,000 might be a little overkill. The Novus will take over pretty well. I stoped at 2000 on this 33.

Yes. Starting with light, medium, then full coat. Light sand any dust then the gloss will do the rest. You are correct that the gloss will fade a bit but it will still be smoother and ready for high grit sanding and a Novus 2 buffer. BE SURE IT’S DRY. The longer you wait the harder the paint will get. I’m talking days not hours. Don’t concentrate sanding on high areas like door handles, trim, or hard outside corners. There is less paint in those areas than on the flat surfaces and you will break through. Once you get a uniform flat finish on the flat surfaces the Novus will meld it all in.

Mucho better! What do you think?

Yes, keep making passes till it gets that wet uniform look all around. Then stop. There’s a fine line where the paint will stay and when it will run but just be sure to keep the spay can moving.

Yes

You need to go wetter.

I use a Grex and have had no issue to this point but with your input I can avoid any surprises. Thank You for posting.

LOL! ? I totally misunderstood which way you were bending. You’ve got this.

The options are not ideal. But they are options.

Let me know how your solvent glue works. If you’re not satisfied my offer still stands. All I need to know is the radius of the half round rod and radius of the curve you want to bend and I can cast that shape with the flat in the back for you and send you as many rings as you need.

Half round stock will roll over when bending. Even when heated. The challenge to this is keeping it hot while bending and keeping the flat of the curve on plane with the straight. It cools too quickly to control.

Thanks for sharing.

How did you make out with the Pledge?

Moving right along, I finished my master and made silicone rubber molds to cast solid vacuum form plugs. I formed the halves with .062 thick polystyrene. I will attach a .03 flange all around the top half with MEK and pass them around to friends. The last photo shows a converted master top for my personal use. I’m planning on casting this with a clear .062 PETG sheet in order to mask off the canopy and paint the rest. This will look similar to the 2013 GM belly tank.

If you have no luck, I can cast half round radius doughnuts for you in polyurethane. That way you can cut it to any tangent angle with a razor blade place it on the corner and attach straight strips with CA. A little filler putty on the joint and your done. Send me a PM and I’ll guide you on the numbers I need.

That will be a challenge.

Can you draw out the curve on sheet styrene and cut the strips with a radius gauge and straight edge? Or build a template to butt up the strips with heat? MEK is pretty hot and will definitely loosen the plastic but you have to be careful not to use too much or will disintegrate.

My honey drinks water like a camel and I save the bottle caps for small brush jobs to mix paint in.

You have mentioned in previous posts that you sometime use enamels such as Rust-Oleum. They can be flammable. I can’t vouch for the others but the electronics of the Pace motor is not exposed to the exhaust and works well for me.

Try putting that spray can into a hot water bath before painting. It may lay down a little smoother.

Rodders Journal is great inspiration to my model building. It’s expensive but a truly good read that is worth saving for back reference.