Rick L

This has been on the shelf for many years collecting dust. Shot it with a water pick. Came out pretty good.

Nice build. I drove one through high school. “Three on the tree”, 6 cylinder and interior rug all around. Every time I went parking with my high school honey we never got past the front seat.

Very nice.

I want you to go back the very beginning of this thread and tell me if I bought an old tube of glue. I did not ask for an alternative. I did not ask about CA. I got my answer from Mark, the second responder to my question. I thanked him and that should have been the end of the thread. I’m done with this thread but I’m sure a petulant child would go on to get the last word in. Be my guest.

If you go back, you’re answer to Rodent was “he’s doing it wrong” and that you have no problem with CA. I think most people will agree that your personal expertise with CA is not a very helpful answer.

I didn’t say it would eliminate the use of CA, I said it would eliminate it’s use for many aspects. I was answering Rodents dilemma of using CA. I use Tamiya solvent or MEK and can position my part and run a bead of it without making a mess or glue my fingers together. I’ve had your problem with larger needles. If you use a smaller aperture needle (.007), you can squeeze the bottle slightly, turn it upside down and the suction of the tube will retain the liquid. This Very controllable.

That would be a problem LOL, but being able to control the flow of glue would eliminate the need for CA in many aspects.

The best way in my humble opinion is to pour some Tamiya extra thin cement into a precision needle-tip squeeze bottle. These bottles use stainless steel luer lock needles that control the flow of the solvent without getting it all over the place. I prefer the oval shape bottle so it won’t roll off the workbench and a .007 I’d. Aperture. The bottle can be purchased through McMaster Carr for $5.00. and needles can be purchased for $4.00.

You are correct. It was banned from kids to purchase but parents could buy it to sniff it for themselves.

LOL, I had completely forgotten the fact that the original Testors glue I used back in the sixties was banned after kids were sniffing it for a quick high. Maybe that’s the old glue I’m comparing it to.?

Thank you, that’s what I suspected.

I did throw it out and I do have the other glues but I have a certain application for this Testors glue. I need to know if it’s a bad tube or not. If it’s just a bad tube I’ll buy a fresh one.

Hey guys I bought a tube of Testors model glue and found it to be nothing but a tube of snot.When I was a kid I remember the stuff would be fairly fluid and after some air exposure it would snot up but this recent one comes out of the tube that way. Is this the way it is or did I get an old tube?

I’m sorry, I didn’t understand you were looking for a cheaper alternative.

Very nice work. Thank you for this tutorial.

I would not use anything water based if spraying. You’ll have a drying issue. You may want to try Dykem, an ink based layout fluid that machinists use on steel and aluminum. It’s fairly dark in red or blue and can be sprayed full strength or watered down with denatured alcohol. It also looks pretty good over chrome exhaust pipes creating that hot tint hue. Be sure to clean your painting surface first. Dykem can be purchased many ways through MSC, McMaster Carr, Grainger, Amazon or EBay. Good luck.

I don’t know much about Hot Wheels but Trudels auction house in Bellingham Ma. Is auctioning hundreds of them, still in packaging, on an estate sale Sunday 2/21 9:00-11:00 am. You can view their website for the items or preview the items Saturday 9am - 4 pm.

This is a flaw of the injection molding process. The styrene plastic is melted and pressured into the mold through different ports strategically located so that the plastic will connect at the same time all around and push the air out through a sprue. If the plastic from one port starts to cool quicker than the plastic from its adjoining port, it will form a microscopic vein at its intersection. This vein forms a weak boding joint and is exposed when a strong solvent attacks the plastic. Your primer probably went on quickly and gassed out before it could attack the vein but the paint went on thicker and attacked the vein, exposing it’s flaw as it dried. The only way to avoid this is to take your time and apply paint in light steps until you have enough dried paint underneath to put on that last heavy coat.

Look what I found at a flea market for $10.00.

Does anyone remember the Bill Thomas Chetah? Built in 1964, The answer to the Shelby Cobra. 15 survived to this day. Built with a Chevy 427c.i. engine, this was the most badass looking auto of it’s day.

ERTL 53 corvette.

On this surfboard I started with Model Master chrome yellow over white styrene. Then a Vallejo rust wash over that. If you want a deeper color such as walnut or mahogany go lastly with a third darker color such as Model Master rust. Use a coarse dry brush technique and let each color dry before putting on the next. This is a case where you WANT to see the brush strokes. Just be sure not to completely cover the previous coat.

Grew up building model cars in the sixties. In the seventies I spent most of my money on booze, broads and having a good time. I squandered the rest. Now I’m retired and realize that model car building is less stressful. So after a long hiatus I’m back and looking forward to reading this blog.

I signed up for print version of MCM last month. The purchase was confirmed by PayPal Jan.19 but I have yet to receive anything. Can anyone tell me when the next issue is due?