Rick L

True, it can be hygroscopic but it’s negligible if painted. Baking soda is something everyone keeps around the house.

Another cool use for CA is that it reacts quickly to baking soda as a filler. The first picture shows a super large gap filled with baking soda. A drop of CA is dolloped on the baking soda and “kicks”. The result is an acrylic based filler that will hold and sand well. Shown in second picture.

I also like Evercoat ultra smooth glazing putty. It’s not cheap but it works well and doesn’t shrink.

Thank you I have the machine, I just need the files.

I use a combination of these techniques. Wrapping wire around a rod and slipping heat shrink tubing over the assembly. Heat it up and slide it off the rod. gives you the option of sizing the diameter and it’s slightly flexible. Works ok for radiator hose also. This is a sample of .025 wire wrapped around .07 drill bit.

Flathead, definitely.

I’ve built models and prototypes professionally for 40 years and couldn’t really build for pleasure during those years until I retired. I don’t have much of a junk yard at this point so maybe we could make some trades.

My next project will be a belly tank racer. I will vacuform the body using model board for the plug. I turned each station to P38 aircraft specs with a .149 hole running down the middle of each one then cut each station 1/2” in thickness resulting in 13 “doughnuts”. Then, I cut them in half and will glue them together to layout on a platen that will have a .149 half rod down the middle for alignment. The photo shows the stations put together laying on an alignment rod unglued and unsanded at this time. I will do the same with the other stations to make two identical halves. I’ll keep updating as I go along whenever my honey loosens the leash.

vitaneedle.com

This was a cool kit. Other than paint, The only customizing I did was some plug wires and coiled radiator hoses.

This has been on the shelf for many years collecting dust. Shot it with a water pick. Came out pretty good.

Nice build. I drove one through high school. “Three on the tree”, 6 cylinder and interior rug all around. Every time I went parking with my high school honey we never got past the front seat.

Very nice.

I want you to go back the very beginning of this thread and tell me if I bought an old tube of glue. I did not ask for an alternative. I did not ask about CA. I got my answer from Mark, the second responder to my question. I thanked him and that should have been the end of the thread. I’m done with this thread but I’m sure a petulant child would go on to get the last word in. Be my guest.

If you go back, you’re answer to Rodent was “he’s doing it wrong” and that you have no problem with CA. I think most people will agree that your personal expertise with CA is not a very helpful answer.

I didn’t say it would eliminate the use of CA, I said it would eliminate it’s use for many aspects. I was answering Rodents dilemma of using CA. I use Tamiya solvent or MEK and can position my part and run a bead of it without making a mess or glue my fingers together. I’ve had your problem with larger needles. If you use a smaller aperture needle (.007), you can squeeze the bottle slightly, turn it upside down and the suction of the tube will retain the liquid. This Very controllable.

That would be a problem LOL, but being able to control the flow of glue would eliminate the need for CA in many aspects.

The best way in my humble opinion is to pour some Tamiya extra thin cement into a precision needle-tip squeeze bottle. These bottles use stainless steel luer lock needles that control the flow of the solvent without getting it all over the place. I prefer the oval shape bottle so it won’t roll off the workbench and a .007 I’d. Aperture. The bottle can be purchased through McMaster Carr for $5.00. and needles can be purchased for $4.00.

You are correct. It was banned from kids to purchase but parents could buy it to sniff it for themselves.

LOL, I had completely forgotten the fact that the original Testors glue I used back in the sixties was banned after kids were sniffing it for a quick high. Maybe that’s the old glue I’m comparing it to.?

Thank you, that’s what I suspected.

I did throw it out and I do have the other glues but I have a certain application for this Testors glue. I need to know if it’s a bad tube or not. If it’s just a bad tube I’ll buy a fresh one.

Hey guys I bought a tube of Testors model glue and found it to be nothing but a tube of snot.When I was a kid I remember the stuff would be fairly fluid and after some air exposure it would snot up but this recent one comes out of the tube that way. Is this the way it is or did I get an old tube?

I’m sorry, I didn’t understand you were looking for a cheaper alternative.

Very nice work. Thank you for this tutorial.