Rick L

I would do the same as Lei but limit my sanding to the parting lines and leave the rest of the body alone. Then buff it out.

Primer is helpful for the reasons above but primer (grey) specifically is not necessary. It depends on the top coat color being used. An example would be painting canary yellow over grey primer would give you a green tint. A white primer should be used.

Holy cr-p! Please excuse my senior moment on that misinformation. Not sure what I thinking at the time. Surface moisture does make sense as David claims.

This paint inhibition appears to be a lack of cleaning the inside corners of mold release used by the manufacturer.

This model T was painted that way with lacquer as an experiment with no buffing involved.

You’re going to get two different answers on this question and neither one will be wrong.

Whatever glue that’s made for it’s application.

It all depends on what the parts are made of. Most resin parts are cast from a two part mix of polyurethane, an exotherm plastic which generally doesn’t move too well when reheated. 3D printed parts for modeling are generally fused with polystyrene to accommodate solvent adhesives. Unfortunately the melting points are higher than model Plastic.

Definitely a fisheye problem. Any oil residue can also cause this. Be sure to also wash your hands when handling anything before paint.

What’s wrong Peter is the fact that you have a condescending tone to many of your answers.

Come on guys, let’s stop with the redundant questions. It’s starting to piss Pete off.

If you can find a tube that just fits over the lug nut, turn a micro drill that will slightly clear the inside diameter down the center of the tube with a pin vise and just give it enough turns to start a divot in the center of the lug. This will give you the pinprick starter position that Bill is talking about on center. Once that is done, use the smallest drill you have in your index and drill all the way through, creating your pilot hole. At this point you can chase the hole with the drill side you want.

Sometimes spell check changes the word inadvertently and we don’t edit ourselves. A few years ago you corrected me when I had a question on Testors glue. Spell check changed it to testers. I’ve noticed a few of your posts have also been spell checked or unedited at times and I have bit my lip. And since everyone who has been on this site long enough knows that you can’t let anything go, you WILL respond to this post and I will continue to bite my lip.?

Paint the door edges first. Tape the doors shut from the inside. Sand down any overspray before painting the outside.

My major source for raw materials has always been McMaster-Carr. You can build quite the Winnebago with the 1/32X40”X72” (or smaller) polystyrene sheet available on their website.

Not if you have a z stop.

No need to prime. Wet sand with a super fine grit and spray the lacquer over it.

Using agar was an unusual approach but considering you're only making one duplicate, I thought cool why not. You’re going to toss the mold away when you’re done. I thought the video and technique was informative enough for the average modeler to understand. Regardless of material used.

Agree! Being a collectible, you should keep it as original as possible. Any collector would notice a total repair and it’s value would be lost.

You can purchase a .005x24”x24” square sheet of polycarbonate film from McMaster-Carr for under $3.00.

I helped a friend with his train layout years ago collecting homasote fibers through a jointer. As I recall, he added his plaster material in the same manner.

If you’re heat forming, the plastics mentioned will work fine. Avoid polycarbonate films. They’re too tough to work with.

You don’t want thin acrylic for flexibility. Too brittle.

The thinnest acrylic available is 1/32.