Rick L

Strip it.

I would think another advantage is that, once set, there would be minimal or no shrink after sanding and primer.

Our Rube Goldberg constructions were the best part of racing.

Slot car racing was huge back then. Slot car centers popped up everywhere. I’ll never forget my brother telling my mom to take a lap with his 1/32nd scale Cox magnesium chassis converted with a plastic model car VW bug. It was at Modelville Hobby in Framingham Ma. A big banked Sovereign track. Most cars hung on the bank by centrifugal force except my brother didn’t know anything about top heavy cars. Well, mom hit the throttle, full blast and didn’t know anything about breaking. That car went off that bank like it was slung off by a jai Alai wicker right into the pit stop area 30 ft. away. It was a quiet ride home.😆

That’s what I assumed tinted colors were designed for. Applied correctly lacquer will not craze styrene unless it’s applied heavily.

If the paint dried at one time it would not be a paint issue. I believe the resin had a short shelf life and is breaking down beneath the paint.

The industry itself makes this confusing. Some manufacturers refer to their reducers as thinners. In general reducers are used for urethanes and boat gel coats that are styrene based. They will reduce paints but again, as others have said, you need to experiment first.

I didn’t see any questions about providing a pointer. We all have our own ways of communicating. I did not critique your method and I’d appreciate you not critiquing mine. Let the OP decide what information to use.

If the question was how to navigate the boat I would have answered that question too.

So to answer you original question Tom Quick Shine will do the trick.

Working excessively with CA without ventilation can cause harm to your respiratory system. A colleague of mine worked with it on a model project years ago and any time he got a simple whiff of the stuff he went into sneezing fits. Kind of funny though.😆

I use water bottle caps for dabbing CA and mixing small amounts of paint. When done toss away.

The Monogram “Little T” comes with this tank option including the Ford logo. Occasionally ( but for stupid money) you can find this kit on eBay. There are times however when stray model parts for this kit are auctioned for more reasonable prices.

Be sure not to over tighten when installing. That may have been the cause of your original problem.

I would do the same as Lei but limit my sanding to the parting lines and leave the rest of the body alone. Then buff it out.

Primer is helpful for the reasons above but primer (grey) specifically is not necessary. It depends on the top coat color being used. An example would be painting canary yellow over grey primer would give you a green tint. A white primer should be used.

Holy cr-p! Please excuse my senior moment on that misinformation. Not sure what I thinking at the time. Surface moisture does make sense as David claims.

This paint inhibition appears to be a lack of cleaning the inside corners of mold release used by the manufacturer.

This model T was painted that way with lacquer as an experiment with no buffing involved.

You’re going to get two different answers on this question and neither one will be wrong.

Whatever glue that’s made for it’s application.

It all depends on what the parts are made of. Most resin parts are cast from a two part mix of polyurethane, an exotherm plastic which generally doesn’t move too well when reheated. 3D printed parts for modeling are generally fused with polystyrene to accommodate solvent adhesives. Unfortunately the melting points are higher than model Plastic.

Definitely a fisheye problem. Any oil residue can also cause this. Be sure to also wash your hands when handling anything before paint.

What’s wrong Peter is the fact that you have a condescending tone to many of your answers.