Rick L

Bummer. You would think they’d use a more reliable material for fragile parts.

Ditto!

It amazes me what Jim Hall had accomplished by 1966 at 31 years old.

I vote for striations.

The higher the resolution on the printer the better the quality of the surface. Think of it like pixels on your digital camera or your tv screen the more dots per square inch the sharper it will be.

When using putty try applying it in thinner layers. This will allow the solvents in the putty to evaporate quicker without attacking the styrene too violently. When using polyester resin use the same process to allow cooler curing between coats to prevent warping.

Try McMaster Carr industrial supply. They have an array of different blades with dimensions that may work for you. Also check under their scalpel section.

He said two part epoxy. He did not specify its curing time.

Agreed. His apprenticeship didn’t last long. 😆

That harmless looking Dremel tool has created some interesting industrial accidents. A fellow model maker was cutting into a handheld polystyrene tube with the spring steel saw blade and instead of cutting through, it cut into, then grabbed and spun around the tube then around his thumb. YIKES! Throughout the model shop. Bloodiest mess we’d ever seen.

Now THAT’S frugal.😆

Obviously there is no advantage to vacuum casting with fast curing plastic.

You are correct my friend. I did not go back to look at the set up in the video and assumed it was the supply end.

3M makes static mixing nozzles to alleviate the problem of introducing air into the plastic. And WOW that pvc pipe at 100 psi. over time is going to be scary.

Another contaminant not mentioned that all modelers should know is a steam boiler. I would imagine that most modelers paint in their basement and a steam valve can spew off oil and whatever before closing. Creating a bad painting environment.

Strip it.

I would think another advantage is that, once set, there would be minimal or no shrink after sanding and primer.

Our Rube Goldberg constructions were the best part of racing.

Slot car racing was huge back then. Slot car centers popped up everywhere. I’ll never forget my brother telling my mom to take a lap with his 1/32nd scale Cox magnesium chassis converted with a plastic model car VW bug. It was at Modelville Hobby in Framingham Ma. A big banked Sovereign track. Most cars hung on the bank by centrifugal force except my brother didn’t know anything about top heavy cars. Well, mom hit the throttle, full blast and didn’t know anything about breaking. That car went off that bank like it was slung off by a jai Alai wicker right into the pit stop area 30 ft. away. It was a quiet ride home.😆

That’s what I assumed tinted colors were designed for. Applied correctly lacquer will not craze styrene unless it’s applied heavily.

If the paint dried at one time it would not be a paint issue. I believe the resin had a short shelf life and is breaking down beneath the paint.

The industry itself makes this confusing. Some manufacturers refer to their reducers as thinners. In general reducers are used for urethanes and boat gel coats that are styrene based. They will reduce paints but again, as others have said, you need to experiment first.

I didn’t see any questions about providing a pointer. We all have our own ways of communicating. I did not critique your method and I’d appreciate you not critiquing mine. Let the OP decide what information to use.

If the question was how to navigate the boat I would have answered that question too.