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Posted

This is one beautiful build. Love the color and the Vette itself. Corvette over the years has evolved in a natural progression. First solid rear axle, then to independent rear axles. Even the chassis has evolved in design and materials. Mid engine to me was a natural progression of the car.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
5 hours ago, galaxyg said:

After polishing.

 

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Front and rear vents fitted - all fit perfectly and securely.    Inset: Exhaust tips fitted.

 

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Side parts, also fit perfectly and securely.

 

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How the engine is so far. Aside from the manifolds, all fits well and has enough notches and peg size differences to make sure everything can only be assembled in the correct orientation. Nice.

The manifolds - they're not going to fit easily and securely. There are no locating pegs, slot, holes or anything help either the join or the location.

 

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Beautiful looking color and well detailed engine. 

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Posted

I've now installed the headlight buckets and the clear lenses, all fit perfectly and positively into place with a little notch so you know you have it right. The pale grey V shaped line is a decal, and whilst fiddly to apply does the job nicely.

 

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I found this picture of a C8 whilst researching (and how good does it look in red?) and noticed this extra aero down the sides, so I've decided to add this to mine, starting with some plastic L shaped rod.

 

 

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Aftera lot of faffing, here we are.

 

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Underside is probably a little less aerodynamic as a result...

 

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How it looks in place, which will be a lot better once gloss black.

 

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  • Like 5
Posted
1 hour ago, galaxyg said:

I've now installed the headlight buckets and the clear lenses, all fit perfectly and positively into place with a little notch so you know you have it right. The pale grey V shaped line is a decal, and whilst fiddly to apply does the job nicely.

 

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I found this picture of a C8 whilst researching (and how good does it look in red?) and noticed this extra aero down the sides, so I've decided to add this to mine, starting with some plastic L shaped rod.

 

 

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Aftera lot of faffing, here we are.

 

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Underside is probably a little less aerodynamic as a result...

 

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How it looks in place, which will be a lot better once gloss black.

 

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Very nice work so far. 

When I saw your first picture, before I read your description, I was going to ask what paint did you use to create the effect of the running lights strips. Then I saw you said it is a decal. It looks very realistic. Unfortunately the decal sheet in the US market model I am working with does not include these decals and those lines will have to be painted. I really don't understand why would Revell do this. 

  • Like 1
Posted
4 hours ago, mrm said:

Very nice work so far. 

When I saw your first picture, before I read your description, I was going to ask what paint did you use to create the effect of the running lights strips. Then I saw you said it is a decal. It looks very realistic. Unfortunately the decal sheet in the US market model I am working with does not include these decals and those lines will have to be painted. I really don't understand why would Revell do this. 

Thanks, I've been following your build too.   There seems to be quite a few differences between the decal sheets from EU to US versions. The European kit has (predicably) a lot of European option number plates, but only one US plate for Hawaii of all places. Nothing normal like Illinois, Vermont, Wyoming, Florida, California or whatever.

Posted
1 hour ago, galaxyg said:

Thanks, I've been following your build too.   There seems to be quite a few differences between the decal sheets from EU to US versions. The European kit has (predicably) a lot of European option number plates, but only one US plate for Hawaii of all places. Nothing normal like Illinois, Vermont, Wyoming, Florida, California or whatever.

I am really baffled by the drastic differences in decal sheets between the US and Euro kits. I am really curious what's Revell's reasoning behind this? 

  • Like 1
Posted

Brakes assembled. Note how weedy and thin the brake callipers are.

 

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Underside

 

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Now the front suspension is done, I can do this.

 

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Interior carpets are as usual, spray painted sandpaper.

 

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Completed dashboard.

 

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  • Like 5
Posted (edited)

The scuttle panel glues to the dashboard but the connecting points are small and thin, so I've reinforced it.

 

Worth noting at this point, the kit comes with both left hand drive and right hand drive dashboards. My preference is to put the wheel on the side of the country of origin of the car*, so I go with left hand drive.

 

*which is why it pains me a little to build left hand drive Japanese rally cars.

 

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I've seen some C8s with these panels in various states of decoration, including Kevlar. It goes well with the overall colour scheme.

 

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The wipers necessarily need to attach before the windscreen becasue of the way the interior glues to the body. The windscreen slides under them later. Odd but seems to work despite convention.

 

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There's enough of a lip on the engine cover to make creating a mask easy.

 

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At this point I've glued the rear part of the roof in place which you can see underneath the front edge of the open rear engine cover. However opening and closing this engine cover does foul on this roof part, and by more than a little.  If I want to be able to pose this both open and close, some force will be needed. In fact every time I try it, it forces the roof part off entire, with it's slightly unset glue. Without that give, the engine cover would not open very far at all.

 

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Engine in place and rear suspension assembled.

 

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Completed interior glued into the body. Odd but so be it.

 

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And now I can try the body on the chassis, and loosely, the rear bumper on the body. The body-on-chassis isn't instantly perfect at all.  It doesn't naturally sit down very well at all either at the front or the back.  There's a lot inside with the engine and interior, and the back end seems to be it's biggest issue.  I can force it all with my hands and there's a lot of creaking going on when I do, but it springs back into a high-rider once I let go. I'm hoping there's a solution that presents itself later, otherwise I might have to wire the chassis on like I did with the Taka-Q Toyota Group C car, although wiring that one was a lot easier than this one would be.

***Update to the above*** I later took off the body and the interior, unglued it, reglued it, clamped the interior tight to the body and left to set again. The body now more or less fits onto the chassis as it should do. Hurrah. No photo yet.

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Edited by galaxyg
  • Like 4
Posted

The instructions would have you attach the rear bumper near the end, and not knowing if installing it earlier would foul on something (and not having seen a completed WIP of this model elsewhere) I followed that. If I were building it again, I'd attach the bumper at the start before painting. Partly as I now know it's OK if fitted at this point, and partly because although decent sized tabs are moulded in, the amount of force to get the body over the chassis means that these tabs are probably not enough, and I've reinforced it - more gluey fingers and bits. A bit of spurted-out glue in the joint has made one of the outside body<>bumper panel lines here less than perfect, but it's not too bad.

 

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Say goodbye to the sunlight, engine. You'll be buried inside forever soon.

 

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After refitting the body & interior correctly / carefully this time, the ride height and everything sit more or less perfectly.   So onto gluing the windscreen in place.

 

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Just a few details left - door mirrors and rear number plate, and so this WIP is done.

 

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  • Like 5
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Beautiful!

This has been helpful.

I just started mine (engine halves glued) but I want to finish a few other projects before jumping full into this one.

Thanks,
Ismael

  • Like 1

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