'57 El Nomado

[TarheelRick]

I like the looks of what you have done so far. As far as the roof extension, I would vote against it. To me it just clutters up an already nice-looking design. It is possible to overdo a design. Just my $.02, with that and $3.00 you can buy a gallon of gas.

[customline]

33 minutes ago, TarheelRick said:

I like the looks of what you have done so far. As far as the roof extension, I would vote against it. To me it just clutters up an already nice-looking design. It is possible to overdo a design. Just my $.02, with that and $3.00 you can buy a gallon of gas.

Yeah, Rick, that's what we're paying here. 

I like the overhang look on the 4 dr ht, it suggests forward swift movement as does the swept B pillar of the nomad. The only way to mock it up properly would be to actually do it due to the bondo work.  As a bonus to me, the overhang would avoid an anticipated  issue with chrome trim at the top of the glass but once started, there's no going back..  That's why I'm asking and your opinion is appreciated, but you're probably right about cluttering. Thanks!

[customline]

13 hours ago, Bainford said:

Jim, that's looking really good, including your added roof & bed trim. I'm going to take you up on your offer and attempt to dissuade you from fitting the spoiler thingie. Initially I really like it as a styling feature especially on a vintage Chevy, but the side profile you have going there now with the clean line over the roof is exceptional. The spoiler thingie (visor?) would work if the bed was longer. Your vision is much better, I must say, than the 1:1 you posted above. What he's done there is not working at all. Shame too, cause it's a fine looking car otherwise. 

Thanks for checking in on this, a Trevor, your take on it seems to be echoing.   My dad was fond of saying "when in doubt, don't" and I should probably do as he said for once.  The .040 half round is going to be difficult to foil around the backlight and the overhang mitigates some of that. But as others have opined, it's not an improvement.  

[espo]

I like the look of the way your rear window is done. The little cargo area given up for the cab addition wouldn't matter that much on a rig like this anyway. Who's going to be hauling firewood or whatever in such a nice truck?  The picture of the '57 that someone has built looks good, but you're not gaining any interior space, that was the reason for all this anyway. The rear window area looks like it may have come from an earlier model GM pickup cab and with the corner windows it looks practical.  

[NOBLNG]

3 minutes ago, espo said:

 The rear window area looks like it may have come from an earlier model GM pickup cab and with the corner windows it looks practical.  

Practical….but ugly.?

[espo]

Just now, NOBLNG said:

Practical….but ugly.?

Sometimes you just have to use what you have. Wouldn't be my first choice either, mainly the rear window style does sort of contrast with the rest of the body design. I have seen much worse in real life.  

[customline]

5 hours ago, espo said:

I like the look of the way your rear window is done. The little cargo area given up for the cab addition wouldn't matter that much on a rig like this anyway. Who's going to be hauling firewood or whatever in such a nice truck?  The picture of the '57 that someone has built looks good, but you're not gaining any interior space, that was the reason for all this anyway. The rear window area looks like it may have come from an earlier model GM pickup cab and with the corner windows it looks practical.  

Yeah, Dave, it's from a '50 or so Chevy 3100 5 Window, I think. Total incongruity. ?. It seems there's quite a variety of these wagon conversions. Some good, some not so good. 

[customline]

...but getting back to the um....well...because the exhaust is molded to the floor pan the best way to paint the pipes is prior to installing the rear axle/springs unit. So I paint the floor with Ace satin black that, despite being shaken using my recip-saw mix-o-magic thingie, dried glossy. OK, I have some satin clear. I do that after it's all together. Then I do the pipes and I get the wheels ready (it's all about getting it up on all fours, dig?) Then I struggle with the front suspension (do you know the 1957 Chevrolet Nomad  has no front springs? Amazing!) And then I apply the CA in the rear spring locations and set the rear axle, with wheels attached (by now I'm super excited to get my awesome custom conversion Nomad standing up for the first time ?) and then....surprise, Jimmy!

Houston, we have a problem ?

Wait! I have another kit....maybe...maybe I can use that rear end (the flip-nose gasser can wait) from that one...

Voila!....oh....?

[customline]

And then there's the ride height issue. 

Kinda high.  Too much wheel well showing.  It just so happens I am getting a second chance, and I will start at the front....without paint this time (almost.)

With a brush I painted the front crossmember on the bottom where it will be impossible to spray after the bottom "suspension " is installed.  Since there are no springs to hassle with, the lower A frames are welded to the frame for a nice firm ride. The hubs can now be relocated to the upper A frames ?.  The hubs are 1/8 styrene tube filled with .080 rod and drilled for .032 brass. The A frames were drilled through into the frame for a good sturdy attachment so that the wheels might be adjusted simply by bending the wire to get alignment.

The kit wheel retainers have 1/8" holes and are a nice tight fit with no wobble. I won't even glue them, just set'em and fuhgettem.  Thanks for looking in and please feel free to do whatever. I'm outta here for now. ?

[customline]

I'm not totally happy with the stance, the nose dropped but the tail is still where it was. The rear got lowered but not enough to overcome the "leverage." I tried "de-arcing" the springs a bit more but it's starting to look odd u. No matter, it's done.

The biggest problem trying to lower this chassis is the driveshaft tunnel.  It's not high enough. I can't raise the rear axle any more without the driveshaft hitting the floor. 

I cut the offset "gears" off the housing and repositioned it to center the shaft but it wasn't enough to allow any further lowering. I'm stuck with the ass-high attitude.

The kit shaft was wimpy looking so I made a new one using a parts box shaft and a 5/32 styrene tube. Worked on the third member a bit, removed the shock mounts from the axle housing tubes (I can't believe they did that ?). I'll gaff something that looks better.

 

 

Almost forgot...

I added coils (I'm sure it was just an oversight)

Thanks for stopping in.

Edited August 20, 2024 by customline

[slusher]

Looking very nice Jim!

[Zippi]

The ride height is looking pretty good there Jim.

[customline]

8 hours ago, slusher said:

Looking very nice Jim!

Thank you, Carl!

1 hour ago, Zippi said:

The ride height is looking pretty good there Jim.

I would like it to be level or slightly nose down, Bob, but I've reached the limits of the kit (without getting crazy) so I'll just live with it. For those of us wanting a low Nomad, this is not the kit to start with regardless of the low price (Ollie's ?). By the way, Bob, did you see that 1:1 with the truck cab roof? I wondered what you might have to say about it ?. 

[LennyB]

Jim, I think the stance looks good. Only thing I would change is smaller tires on the front. I prefer the big and little look.?

[customline]

4 hours ago, LennyB said:

Jim, I think the stance looks good. Only thing I would change is smaller tires on the front. I prefer the big and little look.?

Smaller tires on the front would put the tail even higher, Len. If I could get the the rear lower, your suggestion would have me hunting for some.  Maybe I could put them on the back ?

[espo]

You have shown far more patience than I would have had with these suspension issues.  I realize that the ride height might not be what you were wanting but, the stance you have now looks realistic enough for a street driven car. A thought for the future when the coil springs are not up to your standard, if they're even there. I picked up something that might help during a recent HL visit. They had something on the clearance isle from their Sewing Dept. They are supposed to be Cord Adjusters, and I have no idea how one would adjust a cord with them, but they are 1mm long and about 3/4mm in diameter with ribs around them that when detailed might look like coil springs and even about the size that you would want. They have a trade name of Sew-Ology. A 40-count baggy lists for $2.99 which is very reasonable. Being the tight wad that I am and getting them off the clearance rack I paid 74 cents, so they were well within my budget.  

[LennyB]

1 hour ago, customline said:

Smaller tires on the front would put the tail even higher, Len. If I could get the the rear lower, your suggestion would have me hunting for some.  Maybe I could put them on the back ?

I like the tail up where it is. But I guess that’s just me. Maybe when your at HD picking up Sew-Ology pick up some cinder blocks to put in the back, that will bring the rear down.

But seriously, didn’t going with the beefier drive shaft aggravate your problem? Could you possibly remove those braces that sit in the tunnel and find a smaller driveshaft tube to gain some more clearance. Just a thought.  ?

[customline]

13 minutes ago, LennyB said:

I like the tail up where it is. But I guess that’s just me. Maybe when your at HD picking up Sew-Ology pick up some cinder blocks to put in the back, that will bring the rear down.

But seriously, didn’t going with the beefier drive shaft aggravate your problem? Could you possibly remove those braces that sit in the tunnel and find a smaller driveshaft tube to gain some more clearance. Just a thought.  ?

I've got the rear as low as I can get it anyway; the shaft change isn't a factor unless I can lower it more. That would mean removing the glued-in unit and cutting off the badly molded springs and adding blocks ...then I would need to raise the top of the tunnel...ya think it's worth it? ?  I appreciate your input, but put this one on the list right under "AMT '41 Plymouth"

..maybe if I had a 1/24 IRS setup....a 'Vette or Jag . Next time.

[customline]

1 hour ago, espo said:

You have shown far more patience than I would have had with these suspension issues.  I realize that the ride height might not be what you were wanting but, the stance you have now looks realistic enough for a street driven car. A thought for the future when the coil springs are not up to your standard, if they're even there. I picked up something that might help during a recent HL visit. They had something on the clearance isle from their Sewing Dept. They are supposed to be Cord Adjusters, and I have no idea how one would adjust a cord with them, but they are 1mm long and about 3/4mm in diameter with ribs around them that when detailed might look like coil springs and even about the size that you would want. They have a trade name of Sew-Ology. A 40-count baggy lists for $2.99 which is very reasonable. Being the tight wad that I am and getting them off the clearance rack I paid 74 cents, so they were well within my budget.  

Dave, you didn't see my coils? I made some from black bead wire. I took a length of 1/8" tube and drilled a hole through it. Then I stuck a length of 26 GA. bead wire through the hole and wrapped it around till I had enough for a couple of springs. Cut 'em and used my tweezers as a spring compressor and inserted them between the lower A frames and the chassis with a drop of CA for good luck. Not exactly to scale but I had fun doing it and that's what counts, right?  Scroll back and look. ?..... didn't even need to paint 'em. Feel free to put up a picture of those things so we can see what you're talking about, Dave. I'm always open to inexpensive off-label items being somewhat of a cheapskate myself ?

[espo]

19 hours ago, customline said:

Dave, you didn't see my coils? I made some from black bead wire. I took a length of 1/8" tube and drilled a hole through it. Then I stuck a length of 26 GA. bead wire through the hole and wrapped it around till I had enough for a couple of springs. Cut 'em and used my tweezers as a spring compressor and inserted them between the lower A frames and the chassis with a drop of CA for good luck. Not exactly to scale but I had fun doing it and that's what counts, right?  Scroll back and look. ?..... didn't even need to paint 'em. Feel free to put up a picture of those things so we can see what you're talking about, Dave. I'm always open to inexpensive off-label items being somewhat of a cheapskate myself ?

Actually, I did see your coil springs and shame on me for not mentioning them. I was merely mentioning something I found that may be of use on a future build, that's all I meant by my comments. I have tried doing the same thing in the past but mine never seemed to work out.  

[Kenmojr]

Cool thread and build. Very interesting for sure.

[customline]

4 hours ago, espo said:

Actually, I did see your coil springs and shame on me for not mentioning them. I was merely mentioning something I found that may be of use on a future build, that's all I meant by my comments. I have tried doing the same thing in the past but mine never seemed to work out.  

Nope. No shame whatsoever, David. You are always here helping everybody on this forum and I know we all appreciate you. I think most everyone knows I don't take myself (or my building skills) very seriously. Especially those coils I made. ?  (Mongram didn't provide the springs so they're better than nuthin' ☺️.)  I am interested to see what you were talking about so post it here! 

[customline]

36 minutes ago, Kenmojr said:

Cool thread and build. Very interesting for sure.

Thanks, Ken, i hope i can keep it that way. These things have a way of flat-spinning for me sometimes.

[customline]

Something that irks me (and probably you too) is that the small cylindrical items like oil filters and generators are conical. I get it though, they do that so it will exit the mold. But it bothers me enough to want to fix it. Its easily done so i won't bore you with the obvious. I recently discovered those cone shaped generators are ideal to serve as distributor caps! ?....well at least this time anyway.

You even have a guide to drill eight holes around the raised center

I inserted the wires through and, from the bottom, filled in with CA to form a solid unit. After it was cured I cut it to size and added a slice of styrene tube to act as the housing and drilled the bottom for a short length of .032 brass wire. Then I gaffed a vacuum advance, painted it like a stock item. I removed the molded in distributor and added an aluminum tube to act as a sleeve and look like the shaft housing. I messed up the angle when drilling the hole to accept the new distributor but don't worry, I feex. Later.

Now the reason I had to fab a distributor:

See the 1:1 ?  See the teeny-weeny 1:24? That's why. ?

I'm starting to like 1:24, it's easier to work with ?

Next up: repositioning the generator- next for me, that is ?

[LennyB]

Jim, nice work on the distributor. You still running points??