Quick Queries

[CA Whitecloud]

Tire Finishes-

I purchased aftermarket tires and wheels, applied the decals and then a light shot of Testors Dullcoat. They looked really good.

 

 

After a bit the dullcoat started to flake off. Since I already had the wheels in, I brushed on Vallejo Matte Finish. That gives off an almost fuzzy look.

I'm afraid to use any solvents because I can't loose the decals. It is not a show stopper, just wonder about remedies and/or other techniques to add realism to the tires. Thanks in advance.

 

[Chris V]

I'm afraid there's not much you can do about the set you have. Enamels and most types of lacquer won't work on vinyl/rubber parts. Enamels won't dry and will remain tacky, and lacquers have a tendency to flake off the soft surface.

The best way to seal tire decals is to airbrush them with acrylic dull clear. However even acrylics are differently composed, so it's best to test their compatibility on a scrap piece of decal before applying them to the finished tire. Furthermore the decals need ample time to thoroughly dry and set before applying the clearcoat.

[Shark]

I lightly sand the side walls with 400 grit wet paper, then wash the tires with a toothbrush and Dawn dish liquid. Let them air dry and then start coating with your product of choice.

Mine is a light gloss clear coat, apply decals, light mist of clear smoke to tone down the lettering, then a coat of matte clear. I use Tamiya spray cans for all of this and wait a day or two between steps.

[Fat Brian]

If the tires are the vinyl or rubber stuff you need Mr Super Clear. It's a bit pricey but will dry on materials other things won't. 

[CA Whitecloud]

Racing Harnesses - How to

Does anyone have any insight on assembling these add-ons from Gopher Racing? I'm going with the four-point connection.

I've done single belts before, so I have a couple tricks handling the ribbon like shape cuts, burning the finished edges, and a little dark varnish to age and stiffen them up a bit. What I don't see is how the belts get threaded through the different buckles (the stops and starts). All thoughts appreciated. 

Edited April 1 by CA Whitecloud

[stitchdup]

1 hour ago, CA Whitecloud said:

Racing Harnesses - How to

Does anyone have any insight on assembling these add-ons from Gopher Racing? I'm going with the four-point connection.

I've done single belts before, so I have a couple tricks handling the ribbon like shape cuts, burning the finished edges, and a little dark varnish to age and stiffen them up a bit. What I don't see is how the belts get threaded through the different buckles (the stops and starts). All thoughts appreciated. 

have a look at the seatbelts in your car. a different style but the basics are the same and its much easier than trying to explain it.

[NOBLNG]

8 hours ago, CA Whitecloud said:

Racing Harnesses - How to

Does anyone have any insight on assembling these add-ons from Gopher Racing? I'm going with the four-point connection.

I've done single belts before, so I have a couple tricks handling the ribbon like shape cuts, burning the finished edges, and a little dark varnish to age and stiffen them up a bit. What I don't see is how the belts get threaded through the different buckles (the stops and starts). All thoughts appreciated. 

Don’t know if this helps, but the Fujimi kit I’m working on has this method in the instructions.

 

Edited April 2 by NOBLNG

[CA Whitecloud]

Thanks for the tips.

[CA Whitecloud]

why are the buckles so obnoxiously wide? Or should I make a wider ribbon...or just go with it?

[peteski]

Seat belts in real cars come in different width. Passenger var belts are narrower than racing belt harnesses.  Sometimes racing harnesses uses multiple  width belts. I'm sure you know that already.

But in this case I suspect that the photoetched hardware is either designed for a larger scale  model, or the belt material is the wrong size (I know, the packaging shows 1:24/25 SCALE). But clearly, something's off.  Even the included instructions show the buckles and other hardware fitting tighter  to the belts.

Racing belts are usually 3" wide. That scales out to 3/25=0.12" in 1:25 scale or smidge smaller than 1/8".  How wide is the belt material?  If it is 1/8", then the photoetched metal pieces are designed for larger scale models.

 

Edited April 4 by peteski

[CA Whitecloud]

I know you all are waiting to see how this is going to play out. So here is where I'm landing with the seatbelts. I created my own straps from medical tape and blue paint. I think they look good. I had trouble judging the lengths between buckles. I cut holes in the seat sides for a pas-thru. I don't know if I want to shoe the lap belts bolted (cage or floor?) or just tuck them under the seat. Also, what to do with the little pics on plain paper? White glue?

[CA Whitecloud]

Reference: