Comparison between Tamiya and Rustoleum

[TonyK]

Got a can of Rustoleum "metallic". The cap is silver and I thought it would be a good color for all the aluminum parts I paint. Usually I use Testors silver but like to add other paints to my inventory.

Very disappointed with it. First of all, there's hardly any color to it. After a couple of sprays I shook it a bunch more thinking I didn't mix it enough but it made no difference. Also, the smell was very strong. Obviously paint has a smell but this one was more than I've witnessed before. Very strange. 

[Horrorshow]

3 hours ago, TonyK said:

Got a can of Rustoleum "metallic". The cap is silver and I thought it would be a good color for all the aluminum parts I paint. Usually I use Testors silver but like to add other paints to my inventory.

Very disappointed with it. First of all, there's hardly any color to it. After a couple of sprays I shook it a bunch more thinking I didn't mix it enough but it made no difference. Also, the smell was very strong. Obviously paint has a smell but this one was more than I've witnessed before. Very strange. 

Ya, a real heavy oily smell 

[Swamp Dog]

3 hours ago, TonyK said:

Got a can of Rustoleum "metallic". The cap is silver and I thought it would be a good color for all the aluminum parts I paint. Usually I use Testors silver but like to add other paints to my inventory.

Very disappointed with it. First of all, there's hardly any color to it. After a couple of sprays I shook it a bunch more thinking I didn't mix it enough but it made no difference. Also, the smell was very strong. Obviously paint has a smell but this one was more than I've witnessed before. Very strange. 

i have a can of Rust Oleum metallic and find it dont do well on small parts as you got to really lay it on to get a shine. also you gotta shake it at least 3-4 minuets. works great on large parts.  i did these rims with it. here is a tip for you, look on the can and call the 1 800 # and request extra tips. i use a lot of their paint and get 30 at a time. they know they have a problem with them...get you some Rust Oleum aluminum that's what you need. these parts on my MP8 engine was sprayed with it..https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BWOS80?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

[Rodent]

5 minutes ago, Swamp Dog said:

Rust Oleum aluminum

I do like the aluminum. Sprays on nice and thin, covers well. I wish their other paint did as well, and I wish they had other metal colors like iron and stainless that worked as well as the aluminum.

[TonyK]

Now you tell me!  LOL

Yes, I've got the extra nozzles from them in the past. You'd think they would fix that problem since some people might use their product and never buy it again.

[StevenGuthmiller]

On 3/10/2025 at 8:12 PM, Swamp Dog said:

that is one thing i will never do is tell someone what kind of paint to use or cut them down, laugh at them for the brand they using. but they a lot out their that love to cut  Rustoleum paints down. i have won a lot of contest here in the south with my trucks all painted with yep you guessed it Rustoleum.☺️

Well, maybe we should approach this discussion from a purely analytical stand point, and  remove the emotional.

I get it, people sometimes get triggered when someone dismisses or condemns their product of choice, but my observations have nothing to do with the individual, but rather the performance of a particular material.

And yes, I understand that some people will record good results with darn near anything, but my question is, which product is the least likely to perform to expectations, and which is the most likely to excel.

 

I approach that question from this stand point.

If one were to make a list of the advantages of one product over the other, the answer becomes clearer.

From my view, Rustoleum enamel spray cans have a few advantages, for the sake of this discussion, over most lacquers.

Those advantages being, that it's cheaper, more easily obtainable, and you get more product for your money.

Unfortunately, none of those advantages have anything at all to do with the performance of the product itself.

 

When you consider only the performance of the material itself and take the emotion out of it, there are many actual material advantages of lacquer over an enamel such as Rustoleum.

#1.  Spray performance is almost always superior with lacquer in a spray can, as you've eluded to when you mentioned the propensity for Rustoleum nozzles to clog.

       This is partially due to just bad nozzles, but it also has to do with the paint itself being much thicker

       It's thicker because it's designed specifically as a one shot product that covers in a single coat, (maybe 2) so therefore it only makes sense that it will clog nozzles much more easily.

#2.  Drying and curing times are miles away from one and other.

         Lacquers can be dry to the touch in a matter of minutes, where an enamel can take hours to days before it can be safely handled.

        Complete curing times could be a couple of days with lacquer, and weeks to even months with enamel.

#3.  Re-coat issues can be a huge problem with enamels, (especially Rustoleum) as this is the most often seen problem that I witness.

         Re-coating at the wrong interval can cause disastrous results and determining the proper re-coat times can be guess work at best.

         While the can will have instructions, those instructions will not take into account factors such as atmospheric conditions, which can throw re-coat windows way off.

         With a good lacquer, all of that uncertainty goes out the window.

         Most lacquers can be re-coated whenever you choose, whether it be 5 minutes, 5 hours, or 5 weeks.

#4.  Problems with paint thickness, and by extension detail hide, is a big factor with enamel, and virtually non-existent with lacquer.

         If you happen to have a situation where you've already applied a couple of coats of Rustoleum, and a problem arises that requires another coat or 2, there is a high probability that you are going to have a problem with obscured details, even to the point of beginning to fill panel lines to the extent of them becoming non-existent.

         At that point, the most likely option is the dunk tank.

         With lacquers, multiple coat systems are not only possible, but in many cases desirable.

         Using lacquer products, I routinely use as many as 15 coats of primer, color and clear producing no detail hide whatsoever.

         I won't go into the rationale for using that many coats at this time, but there are legitimate reasons for it.

         Using the same scenario above, should an additional coat, or 2, or 3, be required when using a lacquer, no problem.

         It's just a matter of adding more paint without the inherent problems you're probably going to encounter when adding additional coats of enamel. 

#5.  Another issue related to paint thickness and chemistry is the fact that enamels such as Rustoleum level out very slowly.

          This can be an advantage as slow leveling allows for the paint to smooth itself as it drys, but it can also be a disadvantage as it also allows the paint to pool, or draw away from sharp edges which is also another problem I frequently see.

          Slower drying properties also allow for such issues such as runs, sags, fish eyes, etc, which are much less likely with a fast drying paint.

          And as I've already stated, exposed sharp edges, or lightly covered panel line edges can be a difficulty due to the fact that additional coats to cover can obscure other fine features of the model.

          Lacquers begin to dry so quickly that paint pooling, drawing away from edges, and runs and other related anomalies are virtually eliminated. 

#6.  Another frequent problem with Rustoleum seems to be over coating with a clear coat.

         Not only do I see frequent paint disasters with people who have ruined paint jobs by merely trying to add a clear coat from the same company, or even the same paint line, but the fact that you are highly limited to the products that you can use over it makes things much more difficult.

         With lacquers, there are virtually no limits whatsoever.

         Should you choose to use a waterborne acrylic, an enamel, a 2K product, or a lacquer clear coat, type and manufacturer of the product you choose to use will make absolutely no difference over a lacquer base, and the interval at which you apply it matters none either.

 

I could go on, but I think that these few examples of the versatility of lacquer over an enamel such as Rustoleum should be quite evident to anyone who's been experimenting with different paint systems over many years of trial and error.

 

On a side note, I too have more than my fair share of trophies, plaques, ribbons, and magazine appearances with my projects, but I never attribute that success to a particular product that was used during the build.

The accolades should always be given to the craftsman in those circumstances, and not the materials that were used.

 

 

 

Steve   

        

     

Edited March 12 by StevenGuthmiller

[bobthehobbyguy]

On 3/12/2025 at 7:52 AM, Rodent said:

Already there. "Can I use Rustoleum on a model car?"

 

AI Overview

Learn more

 

While you can technically use Rust-Oleum spray paint on model cars, many model builders strongly discourage it due to the paint's aggressive solvents and thick application, which can damage fine details and lead to a less-than-ideal finish compared to using dedicated model paints. 

 

Here's a more detailed breakdown:

 

 

Reasons Why Rust-Oleum Might Not Be Ideal for Model Cars:

• Solvent Issues:

  Rust-Oleum paints contain strong solvents that can react negatively with the plastic used in model kits, causing warping or dissolving of the plastic. 

   
• Thick Application:

  Rust-Oleum is designed for heavy-duty applications, so it sprays thick, which can obscure fine details and require extensive sanding to achieve a smooth finish. 

   
• Difficulty to Work With:

  The thick, aggressive nature of Rust-Oleum makes it harder to control and apply smoothly compared to dedicated model paints, which are formulated for fine details and thin layers. 

   
• Compatibility Issues:

  Rust-Oleum paints may not be compatible with other types of paints or finishes commonly used on model cars. 

   

 

Alternatives for Model Car Paint:

• Dedicated Model Paints:

  Brands like Tamiya, Testors, or Model Master offer a wide variety of paints specifically designed for model kits, with thin, smooth formulations and easy application. 

   
• Acrylic Paints:

  Acrylic paints are a popular choice for model car painting because they are easy to work with, quick-drying, and water-based. 

   
• Airbrush Paints

  Airbrush paints offer great control over paint thickness and spray pattern, making them ideal for achieving smooth, professional-looking finishes. 

   

 

If You Choose to Use Rust-Oleum:

• Extensive Research & Testing:

  Before painting your model, research and test the specific Rust-Oleum product you plan to use on a scrap piece of the same plastic type as your model kit. 

   
• Primer:

  Apply a model-specific primer first to ensure proper paint adhesion. 

   
• Multiple Thin Coats:

  Instead of a few thick coats, apply multiple thin coats of Rust-Oleum to minimize the risk of issues. 

   
• Sanding:

  Be prepared to do a significant amount of sanding to achieve a smooth finish after painting. 

   

 

 

 

• Can I use Rust-Oleum for model cars? : r/ModelCars - Reddit

  Jul 24, 2023 — InstructionVast5436. • 1y ago. use the 2X to prime the plastic, then select the color, either Rustoleum or Krylo or ev...

   

  Reddit · 

  r/ModelCars

   
   
• Rust-Oleum spray can for model kits? : r/modelmakers - Reddit

  Sep 25, 2020 — Nearly everyone who has mentioned Rust-Oleum paint in posts here has regretted their choice. The paint has very aggres...

   

  Reddit · 

  r/modelmakers

   
   
• Rust-oleum paint - Model Building Questions and Answers

  May 1, 2023 — Rustoleum is only good for painting lawn furniture. Hobby paints are the most drama free. Automotive paints work great ...

   

  Model Cars Magazine

   
   
• Show all

 

 

Generative AI is experimental.

 

[Swamp Dog]

21 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Well, maybe we should approach this discussion from a purely analytical stand point, and  remove the emotional.

I get it, people sometimes get triggered when someone dismisses or condemns their product of choice, but my observations have nothing to do with the individual, but rather the performance of a particular material.

And yes, I understand that some people will record good results with darn near anything, but my question is, which product is the least likely to perform to expectations, and which is the most likely to excel.

 

I approach that question from this stand point.

If one were to make a list of the advantages of one product over the other, the answer becomes clearer.

From my view, Rustoleum enamel spray cans have a few advantages, for the sake of this discussion, over most lacquers.

Those advantages being, that it's cheaper, more easily obtainable, and you get more product for your money.

Unfortunately, none of those advantages have anything at all to do with the performance of the product itself.

 

When you consider only the performance of the material itself and take the emotion out of it, there are many actual material advantages of lacquer over an enamel such as Rustoleum.

#1.  Spray performance is almost always superior with lacquer in a spray can, as you've eluded to when you mentioned the propensity for Rustoleum nozzles to clog.

       This is partially due to just bad nozzles, but it also has to do with the paint itself being much thicker

       It's thicker because it's designed specifically as a one shot product that covers in a single coat, (maybe 2) so therefore it only makes sense that it will clog nozzles much more easily.

#2.  Drying and curing times are miles away from one and other.

         Lacquers can be dry to the touch in a matter of minutes, where an enamel can take hours to days before it can be safely handled.

        Complete curing times could be a couple of days with lacquer, and weeks to even months with enamel.

#3.  Re-coat issues can be a huge problem with enamels, (especially Rustoleum) as this is the most often seen problem that I witness.

         Re-coating at the wrong interval can cause disastrous results and determining the proper re-coat times can be guess work at best.

         While the can will have instructions, those instructions will not take into account factors such as atmospheric conditions, which can throw re-coat windows way off.

         With a good lacquer, all of that uncertainty goes out the window.

         Most lacquers can be re-coated whenever you choose, whether it be 5 minutes, 5 hours, or 5 weeks.

#4.  Problems with paint thickness, and by extension detail hide, is a big factor with enamel, and virtually non-existent with lacquer.

         If you happen to have a situation where you've already applied a couple of coats of Rustoleum, and a problem arises that requires another coat or 2, there is a high probability that you are going to have a problem with obscured details, even to the point of beginning to fill panel lines to the extent of them becoming non-existent.

         At that point, the most likely option is the dunk tank.

         With lacquers, multiple coat systems are not only possible, but in many cases desirable.

         Using lacquer products, I routinely use as many as 15 coats of primer, color and clear producing no detail hide whatsoever.

         I won't go into the rationale for using that many coats at this time, but there are legitimate reasons for it.

         Using the same scenario above, should an additional coat, or 2, or 3, be required when using a lacquer, no problem.

         It's just a matter of adding more paint without the inherent problems you're probably going to encounter when adding additional coats of enamel. 

#5.  Another issue related to paint thickness and chemistry is the fact that enamels such as Rustoleum level out very slowly.

          This can be an advantage as slow leveling allows for the paint to smooth itself as it drys, but it can also be a disadvantage as it also allows the paint to pool, or draw away from sharp edges which is also another problem I frequently see.

          Slower drying properties also allow for such issues such as runs, sags, fish eyes, etc, which are much less likely with a fast drying paint.

          And as I've already stated, exposed sharp edges, or lightly covered panel line edges can be a difficulty due to the fact that additional coats to cover can obscure other fine features of the model.

          Lacquers begin to dry so quickly that paint pooling, drawing away from edges, and runs and other related anomalies are virtually eliminated. 

#6.  Another frequent problem with Rustoleum seems to be over coating with a clear coat.

         Not only do I see frequent paint disasters with people who have ruined paint jobs by merely trying to add a clear coat from the same company, or even the same paint line, but the fact that you are highly limited to the products that you can use over it makes things much more difficult.

         With lacquers, there are virtually no limits whatsoever.

         Should you choose to use a waterborne acrylic, an enamel, a 2K product, or a lacquer clear coat, type and manufacturer of the product you choose to use will make absolutely no difference over a lacquer base, and the interval at which you apply it matters none either.

 

I could go on, but I think that these few examples of the versatility of lacquer over an enamel such as Rustoleum should be quite evident to anyone who's been experimenting with different paint systems over many years of trial and error.

 

On a side note, I too have more than my fair share of trophies, plaques, ribbons, and magazine appearances with my projects, but I never attribute that success to a particular product that was used during the build.

The accolades should always be given to the craftsman in those circumstances, and not the materials that were used.

 

 

 

Steve   

        

     

that had to take you a few day to come up with all that to cut Rust- Oleum paint down.. 15 coats..wow..i only spray 4..☺️

[StevenGuthmiller]

7 hours ago, Swamp Dog said:

that had to take you a few day to come up with all that to cut Rust- Oleum paint down.. 15 coats..wow..i only spray 4..☺️

No, it didn't take a few days.

It took 50+ years of experience.

 

And again, you're bringing your emotions back into it.

I'm not "cutting Rustoleum down".

I'm merely citing facts.

 

If you're interested, the reasoning for the number of coats are as follows.

 

With the primer, I'm using an initial coat or two to achieve full coverage and using it to check for body work imperfections.

The remaining 2 or 3 coats are used as guide coats to insure that body work is to my standards, and to make sure that there is an ample barrier against the hot solvents in the lacquer paint to be used.

 

With the color coats, the airbrush lacquers that I use are somewhat transparent in nature, so more coats means more color uniformity, color depth and uniform coverage.

 

The number of clear coats not only helps to provide depth of color, (ie, helping the color to "pop") but as I utilize a cutting and polishing regimen on all of my models, the more clear that you can apply without obscuring detail, the less likely you are to burn through the clear down to the color coats, or beyond, during the process.

 

I've been using this process for the past 10 or 15 years and in that time, I might have encountered one instance where a paint job had to be stripped due to a paint issue, so it's been working very well for me.

 

If I were using Rustoleum, I would fully expect to have to cut that number way down to 4 or less coats, and it's my opinion that my paint work would suffer for it.

 

Believe me, I've used numerous different types of paint, including Rustoleum and other enamels over the past 5 decades, and I've never had the type of paint success with my projects as I have in recent years.

 

Seams to me as if I'm on the right track.

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

Edited March 14 by StevenGuthmiller

[Shark]

Steve, trying to think of the best way to say this, but I wouldn't waste my time anymore responding to this thread if I were you. I always read and appreciate your contributions, but some people have their minds made up. Can't help everybody.

[StevenGuthmiller]

53 minutes ago, Shark said:

Steve, trying to think of the best way to say this, but I wouldn't waste my time anymore responding to this thread if I were you. I always read and appreciate your contributions, but some people have their minds made up. Can't help everybody.

Well, I don’t always post solely for the benefit of the individual that I’m responding to, but to anybody that might get anything useful out of it.

More information is always better than less, but yeah, I understand where you’re coming from.

 

 

Steve

[Swamp Dog]

3 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

No, it didn't take a few days.

It took 50+ years of experience.

 

And again, you're bringing your emotions back into it.

I'm not "cutting Rustoleum down".

I'm merely citing facts.

 

If you're interested, the reasoning for the number of coats are as follows.

 

With the primer, I'm using an initial coat or two to achieve full coverage and using it to check for body work imperfections.

The remaining 2 or 3 coats are used as guide coats to insure that body work is to my standards, and to make sure that there is an ample barrier against the hot solvents in the lacquer paint to be used.

 

With the color coats, the airbrush lacquers that I use are somewhat transparent in nature, so more coats means more color uniformity, color depth and uniform coverage.

 

The number of clear coats not only helps to provide depth of color, (ie, helping the color to "pop") but as I utilize a cutting and polishing regimen on all of my models, the more clear that you can apply without obscuring detail, the less likely you are to burn through the clear down to the color coats, or beyond, during the process.

 

I've been using this process for the past 10 or 15 years and in that time, I might have encountered one instance where a paint job had to be stripped due to a paint issue, so it's been working very well for me.

 

If I were using Rustoleum, I would fully expect to have to cut that number way down to 4 or less coats, and it's my opinion that my paint work would suffer for it.

 

Believe me, I've used numerous different types of paint, including Rustoleum and other enamels over the past 5 decades, and I've never had the type of paint success with my projects as I have in recent years.

 

Seams to me as if I'm on the right track.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

bringing your emotions back into it have you lost your mind 😂 at my age i dont have any...i got pictures in all the magazines to until my 60 plus years experience and health stop me from running the shows. and no im not interested on how you pant. im doing just fine. say by and please never comment on anything i post or say on here..nuff said..

[StevenGuthmiller]

24 minutes ago, Swamp Dog said:

bringing your emotions back into it have you lost your mind 😂 at my age i dont have any...i got pictures in all the magazines to until my 60 plus years experience and health stop me from running the shows. and no im not interested on how you pant. im doing just fine. say by and please never comment on anything i post or say on here..nuff said..

Okay.

We can do that.

I don’t have much interest in talking to anybody who closes their mind, takes everything said as a personal attack and is more interested in protecting a brand than having a simple civilized conversation anyway.

I've added you to my ignore list, so that should make it easy for both of us.

 

You have yourself a fabulous life.

 

 

 

Steve

Edited March 13 by StevenGuthmiller

[Swamp Dog]

26 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Okay.

We can do that.

I don’t have much interest in talking to anybody who closes their mind, takes everything said as a personal attack and is more interested in protecting a brand than having a simple civilized conversation anyway.

I've added you to my ignore list, so that should make it easy for both of us.

 

You have yourself a fabulous life.

 

 

 

Steve

you just like a woman got to have the last word and always blaming the other man..i dont guess you know what Nuff said meant. it means to please dont comment to me anymore..but you just had to..🤪

[peteski]

LOL!  If someone was keeping score, it seems that you're now the one with the last word.  Funny how things work out.

[stitchdup]

8 hours ago, Swamp Dog said:

you just like a woman got to have the last word and always blaming the other man..i dont guess you know what Nuff said meant. it means to please dont comment to me anymore..but you just had to..🤪

 

9 hours ago, Swamp Dog said:

bringing your emotions back into it have you lost your mind 😂 at my age i dont have any...i got pictures in all the magazines to until my 60 plus years experience and health stop me from running the shows. and no im not interested on how you pant. im doing just fine. say by and please never comment on anything i post or say on here..nuff said..

you are very close to a period of moderation, dial it back. and if your going to use urban dictionary terms, "nuff said" means I've said enough, not you've said enough, its like mic drop

[StevenGuthmiller]

2 hours ago, stitchdup said:

 

and if your going to use urban dictionary terms, "nuff said" means I've said enough, not you've said enough

 

 

 

Steve

[Spooker]

I'm pretty new here, so I hesitate to chime in, but since I'm NOT new to modeling, here goes.  The main point I see missing in this "discussion" is the huge variance in personal standards.  I see and talk to many modelers each year, both in person at swap meets and shows, and over the 'net.  I've seen (and produced) gorgeous paint jobs with all types of paint, including all that have been scorned here, but I've also seen some pretty bad ones (in my eyes) done with  my personal paint favorites that the modeler was totally proud of.  Dust, runs, dull, crazed, you name it.  But the owner was proud of his work and wanted people to see it.  We all have different standards for what we finish and display so maybe that's the most important factor in what methods & materials you use.  The old saying "I'm my own worst critic" could have been invented for many modelers (including me), sometimes I envy the ones that don't criticize themselves so much.  If I could adopt a more forgiving attitude towards my own work, I'd definitely get more stuff built!

Edited March 14 by Spooker