slusher Posted March 15 Posted March 15 I was wondering has anyone cut the sides of an interior to add detail and glue it back when finished and then do it to the other side?
Straightliner59 Posted March 15 Posted March 15 4 minutes ago, slusher said: I was wondering has anyone cut the sides of an interior to add detail and glue it back when finished and then do it to the other side? I think Steve Guthmiller does it, that way. My current project, I cut them off and replaced them with aluminum sheet. 1
Bills72sj Posted March 15 Posted March 15 (edited) After max detailing my big girls interiors, I would do so if I wanted the best possible interior. Edited March 15 by Bills72sj 3 1
slusher Posted March 15 Author Posted March 15 Thanks guys! This will be a help too me Steve on certain builds!
Mark Posted March 15 Posted March 15 Even better, you can add a bit of material to the floor on both sides, and reinstall the side panels 100% vertical, instead of with the slight taper dictated by the design of the mold. While you are at it, you can make sure that the interior floor is as deep as it can be. Very early car kits often have extremely shallow interior buckets. Examples of this would be Jo-Han through 1963, and the AMT 1965-69 Corvair. 1 1
StevenGuthmiller Posted March 15 Posted March 15 One of the biggest reasons to remove door panels and rebuild them (aside from enhancement of the details) is because a large majority of older annual style kits used convertible interiors in every kit regardless if it were a convertible or hardtop. I like to rework these convertible interiors to make them at least closer to accurate for a hardtop vehicle by removing the convertible top mechanism bolsters, or “wells” from the rear door panels and replacing them with closer to accurate hardtop door panels. This can be illustrated by this Johan 1965 Plymouth Fury interior that I modified a few years ago. Steve 5 1
StevenGuthmiller Posted March 15 Posted March 15 7 hours ago, Mark said: Even better, you can add a bit of material to the floor on both sides, and reinstall the side panels 100% vertical, instead of with the slight taper dictated by the design of the mold. While you are at it, you can make sure that the interior floor is as deep as it can be. Very early car kits often have extremely shallow interior buckets. Examples of this would be Jo-Han through 1963, and the AMT 1965-69 Corvair. Certainly make sure that any depth modifications to the interior tub are made with the understanding that the chassis fit can be adversely affected. It’s not always possible. Steve 1
bill-e-boy Posted March 18 Posted March 18 I did it on this 56 Dodge resin kit. Interior was a bit dire and so hard to mask for the three different colours on the sides esecially so cut the sides out by a combination of cutting with a razor saw and scribing And the results - not as in depth a Steve's but certainly a (naughty word removed) load better than before 2
Carmak Posted March 19 Posted March 19 I routinely cut around the perimeter of the floor and remove it when working on older tub style interiors. This is really helpful when building or restoring an early style kit with the front seat molded to the floor. This method gives me a little more flexibility to paint without having to get the sides back together correctly. 1
dino246gt Posted March 19 Posted March 19 23 minutes ago, Carmak said: I routinely cut around the perimeter of the floor and remove it when working on older tub style interiors. This is really helpful when building or restoring an early style kit with the front seat molded to the floor. Removing the floor of older shallow interior tub kits and using the chassis as the floor is greatly helpful. Here' the '63 Galaxie is sitting on the '60 Starliner floor. 4
StevenGuthmiller Posted March 19 Posted March 19 3 hours ago, dino246gt said: Removing the floor of older shallow interior tub kits and using the chassis as the floor is greatly helpful. Here' the '63 Galaxie is sitting on the '60 Starliner floor. Fabulous looking interior Dennis! I agree. Sometimes replacing the floor is a big improvement. Especially if your plan is to use a different modern chassis and the floor pan and frame are integral to one and other. Of course, I usually blow apart the rest of the interior as well, if nothing else but to make it easier to detail. Especially the door cards. When I did my '68 Coronet, everything was basically based on the floor pan from the Revell '68 Charger kit as I was using the chassis from that kit. Sometimes you can end up doing a lot more work than anticipated though. The only remaining parts from the original '68 Coronet kit were the front and rear seats, and a very small portion of the door cards. Everything else was either modified from the Charger kit, or completely scratch built. Steve 5
dino246gt Posted March 20 Posted March 20 Thanks for the kind words Steve, I could never hope to be on your level! I don't mean that as a stupid saying, I have seen your work in Minneapolis for years, and it really is on another level!
StevenGuthmiller Posted March 20 Posted March 20 5 hours ago, dino246gt said: Thanks for the kind words Steve, I could never hope to be on your level! I don't mean that as a stupid saying, I have seen your work in Minneapolis for years, and it really is on another level! Thank you Dennis! You're projects are inspiring as well! Steve 1
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