Harv Mushman Posted Wednesday at 03:16 AM Posted Wednesday at 03:16 AM (edited) I have a leftover engineless Moebius '66 F100 kit from a project (in this case, retrofitting a 240cid six into a F100 4x4) and I'm thinking I'd like to kitbash a medium duty truck. In this case, a '66 F700. The bodywork seems straightforward enough. Wheels, tyres, no problem aftermarket. Should I scratchbuild a chassis (e.g. rails/xmembers), and if so, how? I looked through Evergreen and Plastruct and neither seemed to have suitable channel (approx 9.5x3"). It will need a front beam, 2-speed Eaton axle and some suitable spring packs, anything in the aftermarket that anyone would recommend? I considered buying a C600 as a general parts donor but the detail seems pretty representative, at best. I'm unsure as to which engine yet, but I do have a 352 available. I can live with the Custom Cab interior (e.g. sweep instruments) for this job. Edited Wednesday at 04:31 AM by Harv Mushman
Fat Brian Posted Wednesday at 01:46 PM Posted Wednesday at 01:46 PM The best chassis for this is the Dodge L700 cabover, it has the two speed axle and everything. If you want the Ford engine from the C600 it shouldn't be too hard to find one, those kits get their engines swapped pretty frequently or you might find one from a kit breaker on ebay. 1
Ace-Garageguy Posted Wednesday at 02:00 PM Posted Wednesday at 02:00 PM 10 hours ago, Harv Mushman said: Should I scratchbuild a chassis (e.g. rails/xmembers), and if so, how? I looked through Evergreen and Plastruct and neither seemed to have suitable channel (approx 9.5x3"). Straight channel wouldn't do you all that much good, as the rails are tapered in the rear and curved/shaped/tapered in front. One way to fab them (and the way I'd do it) would be to draw them out in profile (after research and suitable scaling), cut two identical outer walls from something like .020" or .030" styrene sheet, and carefully attach the top and bottom flanges (which CAN be made from straight sections of strip stock). Make the crossmembers from suitable channel. As for the rest of the chassis details, just break each part down into basic shapes, and fabrication becomes relatively straightforward. A little tricky, but entirely doable with some patience. There are some threads on here where similar procedures have achieved strikingly fine models. 3
Harv Mushman Posted Friday at 05:03 AM Author Posted Friday at 05:03 AM On 8/27/2025 at 11:46 PM, Fat Brian said: The best chassis for this is the Dodge L700 cabover, it has the two speed axle and everything. If you want the Ford engine from the C600 it shouldn't be too hard to find one, those kits get their engines swapped pretty frequently or you might find one from a kit breaker on ebay. I'll seek one out! Thanks for the tip. I'm on the fence if I want a 361 FT or something spicier (I can probably use a 390 to represent a 361), though I'm inspired by this real life F700/M700 which has a Paxton-blown 361. On 8/28/2025 at 12:00 AM, Ace-Garageguy said: Straight channel wouldn't do you all that much good, as the rails are tapered in the rear and curved/shaped/tapered in front. One way to fab them (and the way I'd do it) would be to draw them out in profile (after research and suitable scaling), cut two identical outer walls from something like .020" or .030" styrene sheet, and carefully attach the top and bottom flanges (which CAN be made from straight sections of strip stock). Thanks Garageguy, that's an approach I'm confident with. I was mostly just considering channel for the section between the cab and rear axle, but on reflection most of it would be pretty overscale in thickness at that sort of sizing too. I'll scribe out the rail profiles and fabricate. Considering using the light duty chassis 2
Straightliner59 Posted Friday at 07:20 AM Posted Friday at 07:20 AM I would agree with Bill. Cutting out the profile, then adding flanges would be the best way to go about it. If you're feeling really ambitious, you could always go with brass, too. 1
Fat Brian Posted Friday at 11:11 AM Posted Friday at 11:11 AM 6 hours ago, Harv Mushman said: I'll seek one out! Thanks for the tip. I'm on the fence if I want a 361 FT or something spicier (I can probably use a 390 to represent a 361), though I'm inspired by this real life F700/M700 which has a Paxton-blown 361. Thanks Garageguy, that's an approach I'm confident with. I was mostly just considering channel for the section between the cab and rear axle, but on reflection most of it would be pretty overscale in thickness at that sort of sizing too. I'll scribe out the rail profiles and fabricate. Considering using the light duty chassis If you want to build something as long as the rollback I would just get a C600 stake bed kit and use the whole chassis, the L700 Dodge kit is a pretty short chassis. You will also need to move the front axle forward since it is set back for the cab over cab. 1
Straightliner59 Posted Friday at 12:35 PM Posted Friday at 12:35 PM (edited) I did this one about 150 years, or so, ago. In this case, I think I just "stacked" Evergreen strip stock, to create the profile, then added the flanges. It's pretty simple to do, and it allows for more complex contours. Edited Friday at 12:36 PM by Straightliner59 2
Brizio Posted Friday at 12:55 PM Posted Friday at 12:55 PM If you have a vacuform, it would make thing easyer. Even a small vacuform, would works, you can cut the buck in two. You can make one molding buck that can be use both side. Maybe 1/2 in. thick. To define the end or inside of the frame you can carve a channel all around, or add a strip of stirene if you prefer to work with a positive. Doing so, will make it easy when you cut the excess of plastic, and give you a guid to cut it straight. You can also add some small holes along the channel or stirene. Will help the stirene taking shape. 1
Dave G. Posted Friday at 04:30 PM Posted Friday at 04:30 PM The 330, 361 and 391 all look alike in terms of build. But they all in that regard look different in many ways to a 352- 390 car engine. For one thing, the front balancer is different, as the HD truck engines are externally balanced. Then the water pump, the dual belt pullies. The oil pan is a long deep sump pan. As I recall, the fuel pump is a dual chambered thing and has a filter on the bottom. The exhaust manifolds are very much HD. The oil filter is larger. The timing cover too.
Big Messer Posted 20 hours ago Posted 20 hours ago or you could look for a cheap glue bomb at any model show.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now