Donny Posted 20 hours ago Author Posted 20 hours ago More advice please - brushing acrylic or any paint for that matter. can one of you guys/gals, give me the secret to brushing. I am at the point where I have some smaller parts that I can't airbrush. Anything I try to brush turns out terrible, brush strokes and/or rough finish. Is warming the paint to improve the flow enough. Help thanks. Don
STU111 Posted 19 hours ago Posted 19 hours ago 10 minutes ago, Donny said: More advice please - brushing acrylic or any paint for that matter. can one of you guys/gals, give me the secret to brushing. I am at the point where I have some smaller parts that I can't airbrush. Anything I try to brush turns out terrible, brush strokes and/or rough finish. Is warming the paint to improve the flow enough. Help thanks. Don G’day Don. Good quality brush to start with and thin your paint ever so slightly with a compatible type of thinners usually works for me. 👍🏻 1
Donny Posted 19 hours ago Author Posted 19 hours ago Thanks Stu, so Tamiya paint, Tamiya thinners? I'm using mainly Tamiya at the moment, Luke (Coolhand), suggested I stick with Tamiya until I get more experience with paint, so I've stuck with mainly Tamiya with a bit of Vallejo thrown in. Don 1
Donny Posted 19 hours ago Author Posted 19 hours ago I've just spent an hour and a half trying to do the panel lies in the roof. They are so faint and shallow, almost impossible. I've given up, even trying to do them with one of my wife's sewing needles, I can't get them to run right. I'm going to sand them out, it's not a show car. That wavy roof sure is putting me to the test. don
STU111 Posted 19 hours ago Posted 19 hours ago G’day Don, yes mate, can’t go wrong if you use the same brand paint and thinners. Panel lines? For that l use panel wash which is essentially just really thinned out paint. I use an acrylic one, with a tiny brush l drop some into the panel line and it usually flows along the line. Any excess can be removed with a damp cloth.
Donny Posted 18 hours ago Author Posted 18 hours ago 14 minutes ago, STU111 said: G’day Don, yes mate, can’t go wrong if you use the same brand paint and thinners. Panel lines? For that l use panel wash which is essentially just really thinned out paint. I use an acrylic one, with a tiny brush l drop some into the panel line and it usually flows along the line. Any excess can be removed with a damp cloth. Never heard of panel wash, learn something new everyday. My problem with those panel lines is they actually aren't there, they are like lines on the roof, no depth nothing to follow and I have just realised maybe they aren't panel lines, they aren't like the ones for the doors maybe I was supposed to paint them, why would they have panel lines on the roof? DUH! 🙄😂
Mattilacken Posted 17 hours ago Posted 17 hours ago 1 hour ago, Donny said: Never heard of panel wash, learn something new everyday. My problem with those panel lines is they actually aren't there, they are like lines on the roof, no depth nothing to follow and I have just realised maybe they aren't panel lines, they aren't like the ones for the doors maybe I was supposed to paint them, why would they have panel lines on the roof? DUH! 🙄😂 sounds like you are reffering to moldlines.. if not use a 11 blade to scribe your panelgaps with, use it backwards so to say. 1
johnyrotten Posted 17 hours ago Posted 17 hours ago Don, I've had good luck thinning vallejo, and any other acrylic paint, with createx 4011 or 4021. Both with brushing and airbrush. As for tamiya acrylics, their "x" series paints, I'm new to them and picked up a tip here that Mr color leveling thinner is the go to. I picked some up and agree. As for making a "wash", I start around 2:1- 3:1 mix thinner to paint and adjust as needed. I'll mix some up and drag the toothpick or brush up the side of the cup to check how it flows. All by eye, no rocket science. Looks right,is right. For brushes, I've got a good selection of small spotters and rounds in the 1-20 range.
Donny Posted 16 hours ago Author Posted 16 hours ago 37 minutes ago, Mattilacken said: sounds like you are reffering to moldlines.. if not use a 11 blade to scribe your panelgaps with, use it backwards so to say. Thanks Anton. On some Japanese cars, I have seen two stripes on the roof like joins, which they might be. I've never enquired, should have done, had a mate who worked in a Mazda dealership. It's obviously a manufacturing thing, maybe Mazda made the roof in three pieces and they are joins. But they definitely aren't panel lines you use a scriber on, and they aren't the usual mold lines. Don
Donny Posted 16 hours ago Author Posted 16 hours ago (edited) 53 minutes ago, johnyrotten said: Don, I've had good luck thinning vallejo, and any other acrylic paint, with createx 4011 or 4021. Both with brushing and airbrush. As for tamiya acrylics, their "x" series paints, I'm new to them and picked up a tip here that Mr color leveling thinner is the go to. I picked some up and agree. As for making a "wash", I start around 2:1- 3:1 mix thinner to paint and adjust as needed. I'll mix some up and drag the toothpick or brush up the side of the cup to check how it flows. All by eye, no rocket science. Looks right,is right. For brushes, I've got a good selection of small spotters and rounds in the 1-20 range. Thanks John. Yeah, tonight I'll try thinning and see how that goes. The RX7 will be Pearl Blue exterior, and the seats will be dark blue on the outside and a lighter blue in the middle. just to make it easy. I was going to mask the centres and airbrush the outsides, and just brush paint the centres, but I hate masking, so bloody fiddly. Guess we'll see, I'll let you/show you, the outcome, providing I don't completely mess it up. And brushes, I have a heap, I used to do a lot of water colour painting, so have a couple of dozen. Don Edited 16 hours ago by Donny 1
Cool Hand Posted 16 hours ago Posted 16 hours ago 3 hours ago, Donny said: Luke (Coolhand), suggested I stick with Tamiya until I get more experience with paint Yeah I did, but that was mainly meaning to stick with Tamiya spray cans for painting the bodies 😉 1
Donny Posted 15 hours ago Author Posted 15 hours ago Hey Stu, should I prime the seats first, I just painted one and the coverage is pretty average. They are black seats. Don
Donny Posted 15 hours ago Author Posted 15 hours ago 48 minutes ago, Cool Hand said: Yeah I did, but that was mainly meaning to stick with Tamiya spray cans for painting the bodies 😉 Thanks Luke, I thought you meant the bottles too.
STU111 Posted 15 hours ago Posted 15 hours ago 17 minutes ago, Donny said: Hey Stu, should I prime the seats first, I just painted one and the coverage is pretty average. They are black seats. Don Hi Don, is the plastic black? If so, yes l would use a light coloured primer, Tamiya light gray fine surfacing primer is what I use ( in the spray can ). I’ll post some pictures of the primer and the panel wash l use later tonight after the madness that is dinner time at my house has subsided. 😂 1
Donny Posted 14 hours ago Author Posted 14 hours ago (edited) thanks mate. We don't have any rug rats at home anymore. They're off terrorizing other families. My life is peaceful right now, my wife is visiting her mother, I'm like the movie - home alone.😁 Edited 14 hours ago by Donny
stitchdup Posted 14 hours ago Posted 14 hours ago 1 hour ago, Donny said: Thanks Anton. On some Japanese cars, I have seen two stripes on the roof like joins, which they might be. I've never enquired, should have done, had a mate who worked in a Mazda dealership. It's obviously a manufacturing thing, maybe Mazda made the roof in three pieces and they are joins. But they definitely aren't panel lines you use a scriber on, and they aren't the usual mold lines. Don they are just mold lines mate, i checked my kit. theres more above the rear wheels and on both bumpers. They are pretty heavy lines so i can see why you thought otherwise.
STU111 Posted 13 hours ago Posted 13 hours ago G’day Don. Here is the primer l use. Great stuff. I prime everything right down to the smallest part. It’s lacquer based, so acrylic, enamel and other lacquers can be used as a top coat. It comes in white and pink as well, but l mainly use the gray.This is my favourite panel wash. Mainly use it for door and boot ( trunk ) lid gaps on car bodies. Very thin, runs along the panel lines nicely and any excess cleans off with a damp cloth.Used it on the door gaps on my Mustang.
STU111 Posted 13 hours ago Posted 13 hours ago 1 hour ago, Donny said: thanks mate. We don't have any rug rats at home anymore. They're off terrorizing other families. My life is peaceful right now, my wife is visiting her mother, I'm like the movie - home alone.😁 Lucky man, my Rugrats are fully grown adults that still live at home. With the cost of rent the way it is, I don’t blame them, but yeah, when they do grace me with their presence at the dinner table, the debate about current affairs and world events is pretty robust! I do enjoy it though. 1
Donny Posted 13 hours ago Author Posted 13 hours ago 32 minutes ago, stitchdup said: they are just mold lines mate, i checked my kit. theres more above the rear wheels and on both bumpers. They are pretty heavy lines so i can see why you thought otherwise. are you talking about the lines on the roof, Les. The lines on the roof of my car are so shallow I can't get a scriber tool on them, they are flush with the roof like paint. Years ago I had a RX2 that had lines like that on the roof, something to do with how they were made.
stitchdup Posted 13 hours ago Posted 13 hours ago 1 minute ago, Donny said: are you talking about the lines on the roof, Les. The lines on the roof of my car are so shallow I can't get a scriber tool on them, they are flush with the roof like paint. Years ago I had a RX2 that had lines like that on the roof, something to do with how they were made. yes, about 5 or 6mm up from the side winows
Donny Posted 13 hours ago Author Posted 13 hours ago I should say they were, I have painted one out. Also, here is a weird one for you. I sprayed the body - Tamiya Fine Surfacer Primer just before dinner, and when I came back it had a crack in the body LH rear. No I didn't do it, nothing in that spot to scribe. Quite bazaar. Actually there is two, one at the front as well.
stitchdup Posted 12 hours ago Posted 12 hours ago 4 minutes ago, Donny said: I should say they were, I have painted one out. Also, here is a weird one for you. I sprayed the body - Tamiya Fine Surfacer Primer just before dinner, and when I came back it had a crack in the body LH rear. No I didn't do it, nothing in that spot to scribe. Quite bazaar. Actually there is two, one at the front as well. thats another mold line mate, i'd sand it back and prime again there
Donny Posted 12 hours ago Author Posted 12 hours ago 40 minutes ago, STU111 said: Lucky man, my Rugrats are fully grown adults that still live at home. With the cost of rent the way it is, I don’t blame them, but yeah, when they do grace me with their presence at the dinner table, the debate about current affairs and world events is pretty robust! I do enjoy it though. i have seven kids, three girls are mine four boys I inherited when Shaz and I got married. And they all talk a load of Sh*t. i have fourteen grand kids, no wonder I'm a bit gaga. Right back to models. I use the Tamiya primer, thanks for the tip on the Vallejo wash.
NOBLNG Posted 11 hours ago Posted 11 hours ago First thing I do when starting a new model is google images of a real one in a few different colors. That helps to determine what are body seams that stay and mold lines that need to be removed. 1
bobthehobbyguy Posted 10 hours ago Posted 10 hours ago (edited) Here is a tutorial on scribing lines. Here is tutorial about mold lines. Edited 10 hours ago by bobthehobbyguy 2
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