pstreet Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 that is some amazing work. the fit looks flawless, and great job on the cage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 I'm happy to see all the body openings you've done.. doors, etc. Would hate to see that spectacular frame buried in plastic and bondo! Are you going to make the body easily removable for display? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prostockmodeler Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Any updates???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HEdwards2009 Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 Mike, you are officially my new hero in the modeling world. I have to know one thing though and forgive me if someone already beat me to the question. What is the body made of? Resin, die-cast, or styreen? I like the way it fits with the metal tubing and undercarriage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.1/16th Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 (edited) I've finally had some time to focus on this project and start cutting open the the doors. I have also opened up the rear wheel wells. I had to open up the rear wheel wells before opening the rear doors to help with alignment. After opening the front door I began work on the door frame which is built out of styrene. Some brass rod was used to aid in strength, particularly the b-pillar. Window frame sills were also added around the upper door frame on the body. The rest of the door frame is currently separate from the body and the frame, but will be glued to the frame later. Also note that the exhaust cutouts havent been made in the door frame yet. I was curious to see what it looked like mocked up with a wheel and tire in the middle of progress. Note, I will not be using this wheel as it is too large, but the outer diameter of the tire is correct. Enjoy! DAM GOOD TO SEE YOU BACK ON HERE MIKE!!! ALWAYS AMAZING WORK YOU HAVE!! Edited July 12, 2009 by Mr.1/16th Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick F40 Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 Wow, this is amazing. I'm wondering why I didn't comment sooner. This is freaking awsome and it's my favorite Evo style, the REAL Evo's. It reminds me of this guy over at an RC forum where he did up an 86 Corolla with all the door jambs and everything..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vizio93 Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 wow, holy cr@p that is the most intricate chassis i have ever seen. what color are you gonna paint the car and the chassis? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTmike400 Posted December 5, 2009 Author Share Posted December 5, 2009 It's been some time since I've had a chance to actually sit down and work on this project. After talking with my mentors and friends at the Southern NNL I was inspired to start working on this again, but havent had time with school. Finally the semester is nearly over and time to get some work done. I had a few minutes at work yesterday so I started drilling out some .075" x .125" with a 1.8mm drill for the bottom of the door right door frame. The door frame is almost complete. I need to fill a few spots with some Evercoat but it is too cold outside to mix any putty. This needs to be done before I can make the flange that goes around the frame as seen on the opposite side. A couple pictures of the chassis with the door frames mocked up. They will be glued to the chassis permanently once they are finished. Note, the section for the exhaust will be cut out once the frames are permanently attached to the chassis. One last "mean" shot. Enjoy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodneyBad Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 that looks like one seriously nice drill press! cool project and some awesome scratchbuilding, especially those jambs and frames keep us posted! Dave Ditto. Totally Unreal too Nice work is that drill press part of a Lathe too? Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTmike400 Posted December 5, 2009 Author Share Posted December 5, 2009 that looks like one seriously nice drill press! is that drill press part of a Lathe too? Thanks for the kind remarks. It's a Bridgeport knee mill that I have at work. Here's a picture: I use the one on the left to make the bottom part of the door frame. It's not the mill I normally use for model parts, but since I was at work I decided to try it out. We also have 15" Clausing lathe at work that I plan to use too. At home in my shop I have a Sherline mill and lathe which is what I normally use for model stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seeker589 Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 I'm using a small butane pencil torch. Controlling the heat is difficult. The torch really helps over a regular iron because the heat is more focused and precise. Since the heat is more focused it doesn't take as much time to bring the area to be soldered up to temperature as a normal iron, therefore the heat doesn't seem to wick away to the other joints causing them to come lose. I've also tried to make as many joints as possible a snug fit so even if the joint begins to remelt it doesn't fall apart as the piece is held captive by a pressure fit. I'm sure the further I get along the more difficult it will become to keep joints together. Hope that helps! Would using small metal heat sink clamps - like the ones solderers use on printed electric circuit boards (clamps around individual component leads - like posts on a transitor or a capacitor)- aid in the wicking heat away from near-by joints? They look like little spring tension metal roach clips but not as aggressive. They wouldn't be so cumbersome in tight places. I am REALLY liking this build! I will be watching as I am hoping to finish building a brass fad-T frame in the future. Hopefully I can absorb some knowledge from you and other posters on this board. Looking REALLY great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbwelda Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 words dont even do this justice. everyday there is something amazing posted here on the model cars website but i have to say this nearly trumps everything. wow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie8575 Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 WOW! I wish one thing I had taken more of was metal-work/machining in college and high school. I regret never having done it. I've considered taking it at the vocational high school's night classes, but can never quite get it into my schedule or budget. Great work. Charlie Larkin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vizio93 Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 Wow it's been a while since I seen this build !!! The detail you have put into this Evo is simply amazing, and I can't wait to see it all put together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george 53 Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 HOLY CATS!!!! This is the first time I've EVER seen this build! Jeeze Mike,It actually looks like your building THE REAL THING! I'm simply dumbfounded! Please keep us updated on your progress, this is simply amazing to me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Cole Posted December 8, 2009 Share Posted December 8, 2009 That is just... sick! I mean, other-worldly SICK! Are you sure that's not a 1:1 build? Because it is THAT good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
09WNS/14BRK Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 wow this is looking great top job so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTmike400 Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 I've been quite busy in front of the mill recently making lots of chips. The engine I am machining is a 4G63T. Each part is designed in 3D against tons of reference pictures (thanks to Jimmy for collaborating pictures) and measurements. I've started with the block first as it is the most crucial piece. The block is being machined out of nickel silver. Nickel silver was chosen as the material because it can be soldered, and it has a silverish appearance, among many other reasons. The first piece to machined would be a fixture plate that I can attach the block to as a reference. The fixture plate is standard 6061 Aluminum. I first qualified all 6 surfaces, then drilled and countersunk clearance holes for a #4 screw flat head screw. An location index was drilled in the upper right corner that was reamed out to .1250" to use a dowel pin to locate the fixture in the vise to ensure that all dimensions were accurate. After reaming and drilling, the top and bottom surfaces were once again qualified to prevent any distortion from drilling. Moving on to the engine block. Once the engine block was roughed out (.020" over) it was tapped with a 4-40 thread where the cylinder bores will be located. The 4-40 threads max diameter is smaller than the diameter of the bore, therefore the threads will be removed as the block is finally bored. A drill guide was machined out of .125" linen phenolic to aid in drilling 1/32" diameter holes in the block. The phenolic is much easier to drill through than the nickel silver yet rigid enough to provide support of the drill bit. The phenolic was then glued to the block using spray adhesive. The use of a sensitive drill was necessary to drill the small 1/32" diameter holes in the block. Since sensitive drill uses a small 3 jaw drill chuck, the drill bit needed to be dialed in correctly using a dial indicator to remove all runout within ±.0005". After the drill bit was indicated I began drilling the holes in the block through the phenolic guide. The phenolic guide really helped support the drill. I used a syringe to apply lubricant to the work piece because the squirt bottle I typically use was flooding the piece too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTmike400 Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 The phenolic guide was removed after all the holes had been drilled. The primary purpose of the holes are so I can locate tubes to solder to the sides of the block. My workbench was a mess, and lots of Redbull was needed. The block was the flipped on the sides to mill away material exposing only half of the holes that were just previously drilled. This will be the rough deck width. I also began drilling .0625" x .0075" counterbores to locate the freeze plugs later on. Next I need to machine some sine blocks to machine some funky angles on the side of the block. That's all for now. Enjoy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoom Zoom Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Did you get access to Chattahoochee to do the machining? Looks good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTmike400 Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 Did you get access to Chattahoochee to do the machining? Looks good That was all done at work. But last week my old teacher called me to come teach a CNC class today, so yes. Thanks Bob! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangman Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 this is awesome. never thought that you could build a model using brass and nickel like that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
09WNS/14BRK Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 looking good still mate nice work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTmike400 Posted January 30, 2010 Author Share Posted January 30, 2010 Thanks for all the kind remarks, they are very motivating. For the past week I have been busy working on the block. Unfortunately I've spent so much time working on the block I haven't had much time to post an update, so now its time for a large update! To machine the angles on the right side of the block I needed to make some sine blocks. Sine blocks are fixture blocks with calculated angle to fix an object to. I've found turning the head of the mill is not the most accurate method to machine angles, so I opted for this route instead. After working on the block for awhile needed to machine the pieces that hold the counter-balance shafts. I used two pieces of round brass stock because I am lazy. Brass can be soldered to nickel silver, and these brass parts will not be wear surfaces like the journals and block deck. The first piece was drilled on the lathe. After drilling the first brass piece I mounted it in a square fixture with a C5 collet to hold the brass stock to machine it into half of a square. Once the first piece of the counter-balance shaft "casing" I proceeded to the next piece, I turned it down to the proper diameter first. After turning it down to the proper diameter I used the sensitive drill to drill it. The two pieces. I then separated the second piece from the stock and soldered it to the first piece. After soldering I did the final machine passes on the mill to make it the appropriate size. After making the two casings for the counter-balance shafts I went back to the block to machine the notches to hold the counter balance shaft. While I had everything setup in the mill I went ahead and machined some .010" slots to do the block ribbing later. The first counter-balance shaft casing and the engine. After making the second counter-balance-shaft casing I soldered it together: Thanks for looking, enjoy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbwelda Posted January 30, 2010 Share Posted January 30, 2010 >because I am lazy !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! wow. that is incredible. incredible. your last photos there needed img tags: The first counter-balance shaft casing and the engine. After making the second counter-balance-shaft casing I soldered it together: simply incredible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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