Needin some EMERGENCY help!!!

[george 53]

Guys, This morning my BEAUTIFUL 4 yr old Grandaughter Emmi accedentaly knocked one of my Danbury Mint models off a shelf. Fortunately it was only about 4 1/2 feet off the floor, but thats about 6 or 7 car lengths in 24th scale. Well it knocked off the Front Bumper/ Grille, windsheild, windsheild moulding, an some little things like the drivers mirror. It's the 70 Charger and one of my favorites. I'm pretty sure I can repair it, but WHAT kind of superglue should I use? The regular stuff I get at Riders will fog the paint,AND the windows, so I don't trust useing it. Have any of you guys had a problem like this? This car was a Christmas gift from Joy, and I REALLY want to fix it, but NOT mess it up either. Can ANYBODY recommend a SAFE NON-FOGGING type of superglue? What do the guys at Danbury use? Aren't there some members(member) that used to do work for them(the Mints)? Can one of you guys help a brutha out?Thanks Bros,it's REALLY appericiated

[B_rad88]

hey bro, sorry i don't know of any super glues but, if i where you i would use testor's clear parts glue and window maker! it does take a while to dry, but it will have no fogging!!!!!

[Aaronw]

There is an odorless superglue that is supposed to be non-fogging. You can get it at most well stocked hobby shops.

What about clear 5 min epoxy? That will bond just about anything, is pretty clean if you use a toothpick to control how much and where you put the epoxy, and it won't fog paint or clear parts.

[george 53]

Thanks B an Aaron, I didn't even THINK of useing epoxy! Good suggestion. If anyone else has a suggestion, I'd be willing to entertain it.Maybe after a few more, I'll have the guts to tackle it. I just wanna weigh my options here, and NOT mess it up! Thanks again Bran,an Aaron, I REALLY appericiate it!

[B_rad88]

no problem bro!

and thank you for the help you have givin me!

Brandon

[george 53]

Thanks Steve! That Future suggestion sound REAL good! Wifey-Pooh may even have something like that aleady. If not there's an ACO right across the street. THANKS!

[MikeMc]

Well,, the fogging usually wipes right off with a little rubbing compound. It's just on the surface, not etched into it. What you can't get at will disapear with a coat of clear acrilic like Tamiya acrilic or future. Also if you coat the glass in said acrilic it won't fog up at all. I usually use super glue to glue glass in and don't have a problem.

Don't use the rubbing compound on the chrome though, it'll polish it right off.

George... Steve is right..the future trick works. The" ultimate water based super glue" Crafters Pick

will work as will epoxy....the trick is a clean joint to repair and tape , string ,or some kind of clamping

device(s) to hold until adhesive sets up

[Harry P.]

I'd go with some clear 5-minute epoxy for everything, applied with a toothpick.

[crazyjim]

I use Micro Krystal Klear for windows, headlights, taillights. Never fogs and dries clear.

[Fletch]

I'd go with some clear 5-minute epoxy for everything, applied with a toothpick.

George, I totally agree with Harry. Use a clear 2 part epoxy like PermaPoxy from Permatex. It is all I use for final assembly and it works beautifully. Make sure you check both side of the epoxy dispenser as most of the stuff sold in the hardware department is not clear and will cure with a yellow tint. I have found the PermaPoxy only in the automotive section of most big box stores.

[george 53]

BINGO!!!!! Mikearino! I have some of that Crafters Pick downstairs!!!! An Theresa had some Target brand floor acrylic, So, I'm gonna try to experiment to see if I can get it down before I try it on the Charger. Thanks to ALL you guys for your help, is it any wonder WHY I LOVE THIS PLACE!!!!!!!!!

[Chuck Most]

Allow me to heap more weight on the "Epoxy Bandwagon"- I prefer to use it on all chromed parts. Unless they're getting cleared with the body- then I may use super glue. But since you are repairing a built model, I'd go with the epoxy here.

[Guest Gramps-xrds]

This post is totally worthless without pictures !!!!!!

[Harry P.]

This post is totally worthless without pictures !!!!!!

Here's the car just after it hit the floor. Emmi was really sorry...

[E St. Kruiser50]

I'd go with some clear 5-minute epoxy for everything, applied with a toothpick.

Hey George my friend

I'm with Harry and a few others here. I use CLEAR 5 minute epoxy made by PermTex, called PermaPoxy, for doing all my small parts on all the models I build here, as well as taped in windshields.

Dries beautifully clear and you can't see it, if your careful, plus it allows a little more time for positioning and adjusting.

I've done several die-cast repairs for friends, and it works every time.

Good luck - dave

[george 53]

THANKS Harry! Yeah, she even cried! made her ol leeto feel bad.Stupid car,shounta even been in her way!!!! BUT, thanks to you guys, it's got a great chance of comin back! Thanks all, again!

[george 53]

Thanks Dave,I am tending to lean towards the epoxy. I wasn't aware of the yellowing problem so thanks on the specific product to buy, saves alotta grief! Oh, an Harry, WHAT kinda car was that? It KINDA looks like a new Mustang.

[Jon Cole]

Here's the car just after it hit the floor. Emmi was really sorry...

Someone has to say it...

"That will buff right out!"

[Randy Kern]

George, I have to also say go with the clear 5-minute epoxy, especially since those models tend to have heavy, metal parts. I just don't trust super glue's tendency to fog on plated, clear and painted surfaces. The Crafter's Pick is great, and very strong, perfect on clear parts, but takes longer to dry.

[Foxer]

Here's the car just after it hit the floor. Emmi was really sorry...

whew... glad I know this is a model now! I was afraid it could have been Real or Model #94

[Kenny]

I vote for 5-minute epoxy. Hope you get it fixed George!