Using 30 ga Wire.

[David G.]

I was reading the other topic on the best material for modeling spark plug wires and the verdict seems to be that 30 ga wire is about the best bet.

Now, what are some of the best ways to use it?

I tried to get a couple of different ways to get the wire affixed to the kit distributor, and failed, ruining the distributor in the process. I ended up ordering a few pre-wired units from Scale Models By Chris, but at about five bucks a pop plus shipping, it adds up pretty quick. But he does have a lot of cool stuff!

Besides all that, I like to think of myself as a creative, resourceful kind of guy, and I just feel that this is something I should know how to do.

Thanks,

David G.

[Fuel Coupe]

did you drill the distributor cap to accept the wires?

[David G.]

did you drill the distributor cap to accept the wires?

Yes, that's how I ultimately ruined the distributor. I have a pin vise and #61 to #81 drill bit set. I forget which drill size I used, but I had a heck of a time getting a hole started on/in the towers where the wires are supposed to go. I filed the towers down by about half their height to get a flat surface to start the hole on, but still didn't have much luck.

I thought if I had some 30ga wire insulation or tubing, then I could slip it over the distributor towers, but I couldn't get it to strip off without damaging it too much to look right. That's why I went to drilling in the first place.

So, if there's some trick or tip you can pass on to me, I would be appreciative.

Thanks,

David G.

[David G.]

That's certainly step one. Step two in my recommendation would be to use expoxy to cement the wires to the diusxtributor to. You run less risk of getting too much glue on it if you do this instead of using superglue, you have more time to align & position the wire properly & the dried expxy can be painted black to simulate the wire boot.

I think epoxy might be something to try. I didn't even bother with CA, it seems that it would be too brittle for what ammounts to a butt-joint between two wires. Historically, I've not had the best of luck with epoxies, I can't seem to get a proper mix with them and they always end up being tacky for ever more.

What about silicon RTV? I'm sure somebody has tried that at some point.

[Aaronw]

I don't think silicone would work very well, it seems like the wire would just slip out.

Epoxy is easy to use but takes practice, make sure you have 2 equal size blobs then mix them well. I have some 1 ounce plastic cups (a bag of 100 was about $3) that I use to mix my epoxy. For small jobs you have to make more than you need as 2 half pea sized blobs is the smallest I've had any luck mixing.

I don't care for the double syringe style tube for epoxy. I was able to get two seperate 5 ounce bottles (like small mustard bottles) which I find easier to get an equal mix.

There are some epoxy putties that you might be able to use if you really hate the liquid stuff. They are not clear but the two halves are different colors, a blue and yellow ribbon is one I see at a lot of hardware stores, when the putty turns green it is mixed. I haven't tried this stuff on a model so don't know if the grip is as good as 5 min epoxy.

You also might try contact cement, you put a drop on both halves, when the touch they grab and hold (very little ability to relocate so get it right the first time). It is primarily used on wood and counter top materials, I don't know if this stuff is safe for styrene so I'd try it on some scrap first.

[crazyjim]

I've drilled out stock disrtributors and epoxied the 30 ga. wires in. I used to use CA but like the epoxy better. Rather than spend all that money on pre-wired distributors, I often make my own from aluminum tubing.

I use the insulation from telephone wire - there's 4 wires inside (black, red, green, yellow). From experience, I've discoverdd that the wire from AT&T works the best because it's the right size to accepte the 30 ga. wires.

[Scalper]

I Cheat big time. I use electrical tape and insert the wires as I am rolling.

[Mark Brown]

using a pin to make a starter hole is a good tip though for drilling caps or pretty much anything with a pinvise and small bits.

Dave

For years one of my favorite tools has been a simple needle mounted in a short length of scrap sprue. I break off the needle so that only about 3/4" is left, so that it won't break off during use (experience) and use find the sharpest needle I can find. The resulting tool is a sort of awl, that's really great for making pilot holes before drilling. If you make one and keep it on your desk, you'll find loads of other uses for it, and best of all, it's free.

It's not that hard to make 90-degree boots, too. Here's a drawing I made a few years back that shows how - the toughest part is making the notch in the thin insulation, but with practice it gets easier.

And here's what the finished boots look like on a big block Ford.

[Dave Ambrose]

I thought if I had some 30ga wire insulation or tubing, then I could slip it over the distributor towers, but I couldn't get it to strip off without damaging it too much to look right. That's why I went to drilling in the first place.

So, if there's some trick or tip you can pass on to me, I would be appreciative.

I normally use wire-wrap wire because I have plenty left over from my freelance electronics days. It's a solid core with kynar insulation. Kynar doesn't stretch, so it won't go over the distributor cap. Sometimes you can find short, prestripped wirew-wrap wires at surplus electronics dealers. Get those, and just slide the insulation off the wire.

If you can strip the wire cleanly, you can strip enough to grab with pliers, then cut off 1.5" of insulated wire, and just slide the insulation off. I'd be surprised if that technique works with PVC insulation, but it's worth a try.

If you have an alligator clip handy, you might try stripping the wire with that. Open the clip, put the wire down the clip, hold the clip closed, and pull the wire out.

No-Nik wire strippers will definitely remove the insulation without damaging it. They're expensive new, but you might find one surplus. There are also hand wire wrapping tools with a built-in stripper. Googling "hand wire wrap tool" gets you a few vendors.

Sorry. I didn't mean to write a treatise. Hope this helps.

-- Dave Ambrose

[David G.]

It's not that hard to make 90-degree boots, too. Here's a drawing I made a few years back that shows how - the toughest part is making the notch in the thin insulation, but with practice it gets easier.

The CA ends up being the boot?

[Mark Brown]

The CA ends up being the boot?

No, the actual boot is phone wire insulation. After I cut the plug wire to length and stick both ends in the boot, I usually dip the whole boot in a drop of CA to make it all hang together. You can squeeze the loop a bit to hold the boot at the right 90-degree angle while the CA dries.

[David G.]

It looks like I've got some new tactics to try.

I'd like to find a fairly easy way to add this level of detail. Don't get me wrong, I do like to be challenged, but when I start to feel like I want to throw the kit up against the wall, then it's time to rethink things. This is supposed to be a hobby, I can have those feelings at work. There I get paid for it.

I did end up buying a couple of prewired distributors from Scale Models by Chris. I know they're a bit expensive, but I feel that I need to explore as many options as I can and use what works best for me.

Thanks to all those who chimed in on this topic. If anybody has anything more to offer, please feel free to kick it in!

Thanks,

David G.

[toplessfury]

one way that i was told(havent tried it yet)is drill 1 hole all the way through the dist. then get a picture hanging nail and cut your wires and put the ends in the hole then put the nail in the hole and glue.this will hold the wires in place.then drill the engine and put the dist. in.paint as needed.this will give it a gm hei look.

[David G.]

one way that i was told(havent tried it yet)is drill 1 hole all the way through the dist. then get a picture hanging nail and cut your wires and put the ends in the hole then put the nail in the hole and glue.this will hold the wires in place.then drill the engine and put the dist. in.paint as needed.this will give it a gm hei look.

Oh, I got it. It took me a couple seconds ti visualize it in my mind.

The hole is drilled in the center and the nail head acts as the wire keeper on the top of the dist.

Pretty clever, I'll have to keep that one in mind.

Thanks,

David G.