Converting a Viper ACR to a ACRX

[Peter Lombardo]

I have applied the snakeskin decals, along with a few sponsor decals and numbers to the Viper.

I am very happy with the result, especially considering this was my first “in house†designed decals and because it was a very large decal installation. Here are a few shots with the decals half done.

There are a lot of bends and curves on the Viper body and I was applying some large sheets of decal.

I replaced the kit supplied tires with racing slicks from my parts box…..then I sent away for a great sheet of tire manufacturers decals.

I choose the Bridgestones for this car. I love the bold look of the tire makers name on the sidewall.

Anyway, the decals were just clear coated….actually, they are still a bit damp here.

I need to apply flat black to the cowl area and around the hood opening. The trunk area will be flat black too.

I need to finish the doors inner panels although they are basically vacant due to the racing nature of the car.

I need to complete the roll gage and the headers into the free flow exhaust.

The engine gets some detail and wiring and then the interior gets completed.

Here is the windshield with the visor applied and the rear wing with carbon fiber decals and a sponsorship decal on top of it.

I know….you guys want to see customs and rat rods…so most of you don’t get off on these race cars…..or in this case, make-believe race cars…..I get it.

[Clay]

That looks great Peter!!

[jeffs396]

Awesome work Peter!!!

Can't wait for the Vette!

[Zoom Zoom]

Interesting paint job, for sure.

Have you had a chance to test fit the interior/chassis? Reason being...I see you glued on the side panels. There is a big undercut there where the base of the rockers meets the chassis...having just finished a stock OOB ACR, I don't have any idea how you'll get the chassis in w/o major stretching of the body...and potential damage to the work you've done. I didn't realize this fully until I had built mine completely. You may invent some new language trying to get it together at the end...just a head's up ;)

[Brett Barrow]

That's really cool what you've got going on there!

[brett]

very very cool Peter, looks superb

[Len Woodruff]

Excellant job Peter! What method did you use to get the decals to lay down so well?

[Jantrix]

Holy Shnikes! Man that's awesome. Love the scales!

[Peter Lombardo]

Well, Bob, I was worried at first about the interior and chassis fitting because of the lower rocker panels being fit to the body first.....I had no choice in the matter since I opened the doors....but it all goes together well....it just requires some gentle nugging.

As for the decals, they worked much better than I expected. I printed the decal sheet and then, following the directions, I clear coated them. The only difference was that I very slowly and carefully cleared them with lacquer since I wanted them to be compatible with the lacquer paint and clear coat I was using on the car. When I first applied the first section of decal to the car I applied a heavy dose of Mirco-sol to help soften the decal sheet. That turned out to be a mistake as it began to "eat" the decal and I had to be very careful with not over working that piece.

From then on I was very careful with the decal solvent....it was only used very sparingly. The best "tools" for the application of the decals ( in this case, for me, at least) is an old soft medium paint brush, a cotton swab and my old hair drier. I have a small two speed hair blower that I use for the decals. The heat, on the low setting softens the decal sheet and the wind pressure of the fan forces the decal down and helps hold it in place. I set the decal in place with the paint brush, moving it around until it is where I want it, give or take, then, after the decal set up, I begin working it down with the cotton swab, dipped in water and a little decal set to work out the folds and ridges. It takes patience and careful light but controlled pressure on the decal to work out the folds. Once the decal is set in place I turn to high heat for a few seconds to firmly set the decal in place.

I cut out the larger openings, like wheel wells, as soon as the decal is set-up and begin working them on to the back side of the body to insure that the decal "wraps" around the body edge and holds tight. Then once that is set and about 80% dry....you know, still a little softness to the decal, but not so it moves, I use a very new and sharp knife blade to cut away the excess decal. It takes a little time but the result is worth it.

Edited September 16, 2010 by Peter Lombardo

[sjordan2]

Just amazing. Are you going to give the headlights a snake eyes look?

[Raul_Perez]

Very nice work, Peter!!

Thanks for sharing,

[guysmilie]

Uhh, do you plan to offer those decals or vinyl sheets for sale? If so I want a few.

[Romell R]

Peter this is AMAZING!!! Im really enjoying this come together keep up the outstanding work Bro.

[Belair2k]

Absolutely stunning work, Peter.

I'm sure there are many of us waiting to see the finished model.

The trio you plan to build sounds like a great collection!

[Tumbler75]

Man I come back and start browsing around and here I see Peter's amazing work on a Viper! The paint colours and the decals make this one MEAN SNAKE that I wouldn't want to meet on the track! Great work, I can't wait to see more on this wonderful build. Excellent Execution and Stunning Workmanship! I love it!

[Peter Lombardo]

Uhh, do you plan to offer those decals or vinyl sheets for sale? If so I want a few.

If anyone wants these, I could send out a set. The cost would not be crazy...a few dollars each ( Decal sheet is $7.50 and the vinyl would be $2.50 ) and the postage. If you are interested, just e mail me your address and I will get them out to you. I am at : aegisgolf@optonline.net. Thanks, Pete

[John Teresi]

Peter.......your talents fascinate me......you are a fine example of a true "Master".......and you inspire me to be a better builder......I hope to meet you some day.