Sixx Posted October 1, 2010 Posted October 1, 2010 Hey whats up everyone?! I've been a member for awhile, this is my first real post. I was wondering if anybody has built Lindbergs 53 Ford lately? I don't have pics yet,but I'm havin Huge fit problems! The dash, firewall, inner fender wells, grill support, etc...it all fit just fine during test fittings, now nothing fits!!! This is not because of paint thickness!! Car is painted, parts glued on, go to attach body...boom! Body does not connect to front splash pan. It's a 1/4 of an inch to high! Does that mean I am??!! I dunno, I'll try to get pics soon. Thanks for listening to my pain. Later, Sixx
Harry P. Posted October 1, 2010 Posted October 1, 2010 The dash, firewall, inner fender wells, grill support, etc...it all fit just fine during test fittings, now nothing fits!!! How can that be? How can parts that fit fine before now be 1/4 inch off? BTW, I've built that kit and had no problems.
David G. Posted October 1, 2010 Posted October 1, 2010 How can that be? How can parts that fit fine before now be 1/4 inch off? BTW, I've built that kit and had no problems. I think that's the question he's asking.
59 Impala Posted October 1, 2010 Posted October 1, 2010 I had no problems building the one that I built. Everything fit perfect. I did customize mine though, but I didn't change anything that would hinder the going together of any parts. Dan
The Modeling Hermit Posted October 1, 2010 Posted October 1, 2010 The only problem I had with mine was with the fender skirts. No matter which side of the car I placed them on; they looked like they were on backwards.
Jim Gibbons Posted October 1, 2010 Posted October 1, 2010 (edited) I can't say I had any problems other than the very fragile wheel retainer pins for the rear axle and front spindles. I cemented the wheels on to fix the issue. The only other issue I had was the steering wheel/column seems to be angled a bit too shallowly, so the bottom of the wheel is nearly hitting the seat. That could have been an assembly error on my part, though. I have pictures in my gallery of it, and the rest of the fit was very good. Edited October 1, 2010 by Jim Gibbons
Guest Johnny Posted October 1, 2010 Posted October 1, 2010 i got about 3/4 of the way to a finished model and was bothered by the slight gap in the top of the firewall where it joins the body, then i realized i had never finished taking care of the mold seams on the tops if the front fenders and into the box it went. my splash pan was hanging down a bit too, but i'll warn you now not to try and bend it too much as i broke the frame. still that gap in the firewall bothers me the most one day i'll finish it, then maybe i wont either Dave You can send it to me! I'll finish it! I love other peoples cast offs, seem to some of my best work with those models!
Foxer Posted October 1, 2010 Posted October 1, 2010 I have this kit, but have not built it, so this is a wild stab at what might cause the type of problem you describe. Kit glass is pretty clunky and has much to do with how the body and chassis come together. I know I rarely use the glass when test fitting ... don't ask me why. So, just a possibility ...
Sixx Posted October 2, 2010 Author Posted October 2, 2010 (edited) Thanks to everyone that replied. I found the problem...my chassis was warped ever so slightly ( bowed upwards in middle) that when I started attaching parts, they were WAY off! I didnt see the warp in raw plastic (dummy) only until things were glued. Thank God I had an other kit!! I'll try to get finished pics on here for ya to see.Thanks again everyone. Sixx Edited October 7, 2010 by Sixx
charlie8575 Posted October 3, 2010 Posted October 3, 2010 Derrick, to straighten out a chassis plate for future reference, hold it over some simmering water. The heat will help soften the plastic and you can hand-straighten it. Once straightened, place it on a flat surface like a counter and put a few small weights on it to help hold it in place until it cools and re-shapes itself. Just be careful not to make the water too hot. You can melt the part, or possibly get a nasty steam burn. Charlie Larkin
Sixx Posted October 7, 2010 Author Posted October 7, 2010 The heat will help soften the plastic and you can hand-straighten it. Once straightened, place it on a flat surface like a counter and put a few small weights on it to help hold it in place until it cools and re-shapes itself. Charlie Larkin Great advice Charlie, I did keep the warped chassis for use on another project. I really appreciate your help! I posted some photos of the completed car above! thanks again Derrick
sjordan2 Posted October 7, 2010 Posted October 7, 2010 Beautiful. Superb paint work and chrome. Franklin Mint quality. I'm especially impressed that the glass fits so flush without the typical gaps or recesses. Do you have any detailed interior or engine shots? And, I might add, very slick photography.
Harry P. Posted October 7, 2010 Posted October 7, 2010 Beautiful. Superb paint work and chrome. Franklin Mint quality. I'm especially impressed that the glass fits so flush without the typical gaps or recesses. Do you have any detailed interior or engine shots? And, I might add, very slick photography. Franklin Mint quality? Danbury Mint quality! That turned out real nice!
Jordan White Posted October 7, 2010 Posted October 7, 2010 Franklin Mint quality? Danbury Mint quality! That turned out real nice! Pepper Mint quality! I mean...uhh...
Sixx Posted October 7, 2010 Author Posted October 7, 2010 Franklin Mint quality? Danbury Mint quality! That turned out real nice! Skip and Harry, thank you very much, that means alot to me!!
sjordan2 Posted October 7, 2010 Posted October 7, 2010 Franklin Mint quality? Danbury Mint quality! That turned out real nice! Obviously, you and I will have to shoot it out at 20 paces over which is better.
Jon Cole Posted October 7, 2010 Posted October 7, 2010 Derrick, nice build! If you ever have warp problems, try clamping it as the glue cures. One of my favorite clamps is the ol' wooden cloths pin. Do they even make those anymore? Oh, I also like the couple behind the car. Not only do they add character, but I like that they are NOT in every photo!
Harry P. Posted October 7, 2010 Posted October 7, 2010 Obviously, you and I will have to shoot it out at 20 paces over which is better. Don't think so. It's not even close.
Sixx Posted October 7, 2010 Author Posted October 7, 2010 Derrick, nice build! If you ever have warp problems, try clamping it as the glue cures. One of my favorite clamps is the ol' wooden cloths pin. Do they even make those anymore? Oh, I also like the couple behind the car. Not only do they add character, but I like that they are NOT in every photo! Jon Great tip! They do still make the wooden clothes pins and I never thought to use them! As for the pictures, my wife is responsible for the picture takin' and her little people as she calls em' I think she only agreed to take pictures for me if I'd let her do some shots with her people in em' I like em' too, but I agree, I prefer to see just the car more often, but they do add scale and she does a good job with em'.
Sixties Sam Posted October 8, 2010 Posted October 8, 2010 Wow! That is a beautiful model! Probably the best 53 I've seen. Great work! Regarding the warped chassis: I've straightened many parts using a heat gun. Clamp the chassis upside down on a table and shim up the middle with wood till it's level. Then, CAREFULLY AND GENTLY apply heat from the gun to the center of the chassis from about a foot away. Too much heat, and it WILL ruin it! Let it cool for a few minutes, then remove the clamps. It should stay straight. I've also used the heat gun to bend exhaust pipes that don't quite line up with their headers. Use little blips of heat while pushing on the pipe with a gloved hand (that air is HOT!). Sam
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