Bernard Kron Posted November 9, 2010 Author Share Posted November 9, 2010 (edited) The stance is now dialed in and much closer to both the Longman Roadster and my original mockup than it has been. I landed up building a new front crossmember which drops the front end a good 4 scale inches or more from where it was. In addition I cut open the rear deck to accept the louvered panel. Below are pictures showing the car both louvered and un-louvered. I'm interested in what you all think of the two versions. I've set things up to go either way. To my eyes they are quite different in character, the unlouvered car being somewhat closer in character to the Longman car. However I noticed that the Longman car has a wheelbase that's somewhat longer than a normal '32, leading me to think it had a suicide axle. Its lengthened hood is quite obvious. The wheelbase and hood section on my build are stock. The overall look on my build is more compact and less stretched out looking, with the car sitting slightly higher due to the 18" milk truck (artillery) wheels (the Longman car has 16" wheels). With the artillery wheels the louvered version, especially, has a much tougher, more aggressive look. Thanx for lookin', B. Edited November 10, 2010 by gbk1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curt raitz Posted November 10, 2010 Share Posted November 10, 2010 I like the "louver look"...does look meaner! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted November 10, 2010 Share Posted November 10, 2010 The louvers defiantly give it a more purposeful look ... and all that heat needs somewhere to go with the belly bottled up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted November 14, 2010 Author Share Posted November 14, 2010 After an unsuccessful attempt to insert a set of Revell louvers from the Roadster hood sides into the hood's top (the hood is too narrow to avoid having to sand up against the louvers and thus shaving bits of them away…), I had just about decided to stay with the stock hood. But then Drag City Casting's Ed Fluck gave me more than a little coaching and encouragement to try the louvered hood one last time by thinning the Revell louvers and gluing them in place. Suffice it to say that after hours of effort I wouldn't wish this on anyone as the louvers become incredibly fragile. The photo makes the edges of the plastic look far thicker than they actually are. It looks like it might work. I'll know once it's all under primer. In the meantime, I still wish that hands far more skilled than mine would create a definitive Revell '32 louvered hood in resin to go with the Revell side panels and deck lid. I, for one, would be an avid consumer of such a product. Thanx to Ed for the kick in the pants and the handy tips, and to you all for your interest, comments, and for lookin', B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 I agree that the hood top louvers were too wide to "match" the narrower louvers on the deck lid and hood sides; glad you made the decision to change the louvers on the hood tops. An easier way to go may have been to get the Archer Fine Transfers (brand) louvers. I haven't tried them yet, but I picked up a package and they look very, very interesting. They are kind of a 3-D decal with long rows of louvers that can be cut to length and applied water-slide style; they come in rows that are evenly spaced so you can apply up to eleven rows of louvers up to four inches of overall length (16 scale feet long); then you shoot primer and paint over them. The set I have is Archer # AR88037, indicated as "Surface Details #37" O scale (1/48) 6" louvers ~~~ which translates to apprx 3" wide louvers in 1/24-1/25 scale. I've got to get a street rod build going so I can try them out. I discovered the louvers while investigating Archer's resin rivet heads, Archer #AR88032. I had no idea the louvers existed until I found the Archer products in a model train store. They also do tread plate and weld beads, among other items. Yes, they are pricey, but for the right project .... Their catalog: Archer Fine Transfers Just some thoughts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted November 14, 2010 Author Share Posted November 14, 2010 (edited) Great minds, Dan.... I reviewed the Archer louvers here: http://www.modelcars...=1 . I used them on my Barry Lobeck style Deuce Roadster. See Post # 12 on my Workbench thread: http://www.modelcars...=1 . The Archer louvers are much shallower and less acgessive than the Revell louvers. It means I would have to make smoothed highboy type hood sides (like the louvered panels that come only in the Revell Highboy '32 Ford Roadster kit which have a straight lower edge and are meant to conform to the frame rails vs. the smooth panels that come in all the other Revell Deuce kits which have a curved lower edge to conform to the fenders), and then apply loiuvers to the smooth rear deck and to the smoothed side panels in order for them all to match, and they would still lack the look I'm after. And, despite my travails, it would be far more work (with far more likely to go wrong) than attempting a Revell louvered hood. The Archers are very nice in their way, but much more subtle and delicate. I think they should only be used by themselves since they don't really match anythjing in styrene. I have written to Archer asking about making true 1/24-1/25 scale louvers with more height to them. They replied that for now it's beyond the abilities of the technology they are using. We all know, and I'm sure they do too. that they would sell a boatload of them if they ever did once the word got out! Edited November 14, 2010 by gbk1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 Great minds, Dan.... I reviewed the Archer louvers here: http://www.modelcars...=1 . I used them on my Barry Lobeck style Deuce Roadster. See Post # 12 on my Workbench thread: http://www.modelcars...=1 . The Archer louvers are much shallower and less acgessive than the Revell louvers. It means I would have to make smoothed highboy type hood sides (like the louvered panels that come only in the Revell Highboy '32 Ford Roadster kit which have a straight lower edge and are meant to conform to the frame rails vs. the smooth panels that come in all the other Revell Deuce kits which have a curved lower edge to conform to the fenders), and then apply loiuvers to the smooth rear deck and to the smoothed side panels in order for them all to match, and they would still lack the look I'm after. And, despite my travails, it would be far more work (with far more likely to go wrong) than attempting a Revell louvered hood. The Archers are very nice in their way, but much more subtle and delicate. I think they should only be used by themselves since they don't really match anythjing in styrene. I have written to Archer asking about making true 1/24-1/25 scale louvers with more height to them. They replied that for now it's beyond the abilities of the technology they are using. We all know, and I'm sure they do too. that they would sell a boatload of them if they ever did once the word got out! Interesting points. You are correct, the Archers are shallow and delicate. I just haven't tried them yet, so have no idea how they might work out. Glad you considered them. The concept is ... GREAT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exesivefire Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 I like that much better! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted November 29, 2010 Author Share Posted November 29, 2010 (edited) I'm slowly making headway on this project. The body, bellypan and body parts are painted; primer is Duplicolor white, with Tamiya TS-50 Mica Blue base coat and Tamiya TS-51 Racing Blue color coat. The photos show the raw paint. I'll wait a few days to wet sand the color coat and then clear. The wheels are Modelhaus T-640 "milk truck" wheels finished in Testors Acryl Light Grey with Testors Burnt Metal Metalizer on the wheel nuts and hub. The motor is the Ford Flathead V8 from the Revell '32 Ford Sedan kit finished in Tamiya Red acrylic with Testors Aluminum Plate Metalizer on the heads and manifold. I have to finish up the motor then move on to the interior and then final assembly. Cold weather and snow and the distraction of another build I just started are really slowing the roll on this one, but I think that now that it's in color I can focus and get 'er done… Thanx for lookin' B. Edited December 2, 2010 by gbk1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raul_Perez Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 Looking good, Bernard!! That flathead really looks hot with the tri-carb setup!! How's the hood coming along? Later, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted December 2, 2010 Author Share Posted December 2, 2010 (edited) ...How's the hood coming along?... Thanx Raul! The hood came out pretty good, as I hoped it would Ed Fluck at Drag City Castings is making up an aftermarket resin piece that will match the Revell '32 Roadster hood side. It will be patterned after mine. He does beautiful work. I should be getting some from him in a few weeks. I'm saving some paint for that one when it gets here. In the meantime this one will serve as I finish up this build. I can't believe someone hasn't offered this before! It's a natural and will save an awful lot of work. Ed already does a repop of the louvered Deuce deck which I've used on this build and I'm trying to talk him into offering the true highboy style side panels in blank and stock louvered patterns as well. Only the Roadster kit comes with the straight lower edge needed for a proper fit amd it only offers the hot rod style louvers. Edited December 2, 2010 by gbk1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kopperkart Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 The wheels are perfect for the era you are building. Nice scratch building! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted December 3, 2010 Author Share Posted December 3, 2010 ... The wheels are perfect for the era you are building. Nice scratch building!... Thanx Kopperkart! Progress remains slow but steady. The paint has been polished and the firewall installed. I chopped about 3 scale inches out of the windshield. And lastly, with the exception of the steering wheel and column (I plan to use a late 40's or early 50's style wheel with a chrome horn wring and a column shifter), the interior is done. It's the stock kit interior sectioned about 6 scale inches with a similar amount removed from the seat bottom. The color is Testors Acryl British Crimson to simulate red leatherette. The kit dashboard (the one with the cassette player and air-conditioning outlets!) has had the center removed and a blank panel glued in place. The instrument panel is a p/e piece from Replicas & Miniatures of Maryland. There are still quite a few details to attend to such as fabricating front shock and headlight brackets, creating an exhaust system exiting from the bellypan, and finishing up small parts for the engine compartment such as a coil and a fuel block. But final assembly can't be too far away now. Thanx for lookin', B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted December 5, 2010 Author Share Posted December 5, 2010 (edited) It's finally back up on its wheels. This time in paint. The stance has survived with just the right amount of rake. The overall proportions of the car are starting to emerge and the chopped windshield appears to be about right. I didn't mention it in my last post, but from the side view you can see where the roll on the top of the seat back has been adjusted to sit above the rear deck line, an old-school touch I've always wanted to do on a Deuce. The motor is completed and installed. It's the kit flathead from the Revell '32 Sedan with the addition of a very cool Mallory "Crab" style magneto from Replicas & Miniatures Co. of Maryland. The front suspension is also installed. Again from the Revell '32 kits but this time with the cross steering removed and a flat plate idler arm fabricated. The tie rod passes through the belly pan. A chrome plated Pitman arm and drag link will be mounted next, along with hairpin radius rods at the front. As in the Longman car the rear control arms are hidden inside the bellypan. Exhaust pipes adapted from the Revell Deuce kits exit at the rear. Front bodywork, grill, lights, glass, steering wheel are all on deck and waiting for final installation. Can't be long now… Thanx for lookin', B. Edited December 5, 2010 by gbk1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parki Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 Very cool ride. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 Yes, that looks very good so far! Like the color, it's just perfect to this. Engine detailing is very nice and that stance looks very good right now. Can't wait to see the finished product. It's also nice to see, that someone builds nostalgic styled Hot Rods, customs and so on. It's very great... Keep these coming! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted December 6, 2010 Author Share Posted December 6, 2010 Thanx guys! I continue to be surprised that the stance has survived through all the fabrication work, suspension tweaks and general b.s. And the hood came out OK, too! To say that I'm relieved on both counts would be an understatement! So as soon as I got the front panels installed I grabbed some quick photos. Also below is a picture of the completed engine compartment. The hood sides are glued in place. This means the the complete engine will never be seen again, but it's the only way to be absolutely sure of a proper hood fit that I've been able to come up with. I think this may be the last in-progress update before it shows up as Under Glass. Zillions of fiddly bits left to do but none of them of particular interest, so thanks for following along. This has been great fun for me. I hope you all enjoyed it, too. B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raul_Perez Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 (edited) Good thing this is a roadster because there's no room for an AC unit under the hood!! In all seriousness, (or at least as much as I can muster...), the rake and stance are awesome!! Careful going over the speed bumps!! I'm really glad to see that you went with a dual-rod design for the radiator. As you know, I really DO NOT like the single rod design from the kit. Keep up the GREAT work!! Later, Edited December 6, 2010 by Raul_Perez Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted December 7, 2010 Author Share Posted December 7, 2010 ...In all seriousness, (or at least as much as I can muster...), the rake and stance are awesome!! Careful going over the speed bumps!! I'm really glad to see that you went with a dual-rod design for the radiator. As you know, I really DO NOT like the single rod design from the kit.... Thanx Raul! Actually, compared to the Longman roadster which was my inspiration, this one has pretty generous ground clearance. When they took 'em down low back in the day, they made sure they were good 'n' looooowwww... (and no airbags either). The Revell '32 kit roadster has so much that's right about it, but there's also so much that's so dated and so, I don't know, late-80, early 90's about it! Things like the caseette deck and air conditioning outlets in the dashboard, the funky (and thick) single rod brace (I actually can't recall seeing one like that on a 1:1), the Ford Motorsports valve covers and transmission pan cover on the small block Ford engine, and the dreaded airbags (what was that about????). Slowly with each successive variation they have addressed ar least some of these, ,but mostly by introducing optional parts. Now if they would just introduce an optional gas pedal (or is it clutch pedal - you pick it). Oh well, for Old Skool modelers like me it's just another challenge to be overcome... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raul_Perez Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 ...Oh well, for Old Skool modelers like me it's just another challenge to be overcome... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 Way past 'too kewl,' Bernard! Love it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted December 19, 2010 Author Share Posted December 19, 2010 (edited) Thanx Danno. Unfortunately I have one last post before this goes Under Glass. At the very last minute this build decided to fight me big time. With only the windshield left to install I managed to put a big old glue spot on the passenger side door and then went on to fail to notice it long enough for it to eat through down to the primer. After an initial futile attempt at a repair I landed up having to completely repaint the body! I also managed to break the front axle in the process. So I just tore down the whole build, stripped the old paint off and started over. The only good thing is all the sub assemblies came apart intact and I didn't have to do anything but reinstall them. So here are 3 pics to wrap things up: A front suspension detail and a coupla teasers with a holiday vibe. More formal shots Under Glass tomorrow. Thanx for lookin', B. Edited December 19, 2010 by gbk1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curt raitz Posted December 19, 2010 Share Posted December 19, 2010 Thanx Danno. Unfortunately I have one last post before this goes Under Glass. At the very last minute this build decided to fight me big time. With only the windshield left to install I managed to put a big old glue spot on the passenger side door and then went on to fail to notice it long enough for it to eat through down to the primer. After an initial futile attempt at a repair I landed up having to completely repaint the body! I also managed to break the front axle in the process. So I just tore down the whole build, stripped the old paint off and started over. The only good thing is all the sub assemblies came apart intact and I didn't have to do anything but reinstall them. Oh-h-h the joys of modeling...been there - done that, kinda of a sick feeling ain't it! lookin' great, can't wait to see it in February Happy Holidays Mr. Kron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted December 20, 2010 Author Share Posted December 20, 2010 Thanx Curt! This build is now offcially complete. Beauty shots and a full summary can be found here: http://www.modelcars...t=0#entry403628 . Thanx to everyone for following along! B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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