parki Posted January 6, 2011 Posted January 6, 2011 Looking very nice. Good too see somthing different done to one of these kits. Nice conversion, can't wait to see the finished pics.
Green Duster Posted January 6, 2011 Posted January 6, 2011 Great job Ian! I like something that's different. Alot better than all the hemi and 440 cars.
charlie8575 Posted January 6, 2011 Posted January 6, 2011 Nice-looking body, Ian. This is going to be a knock-out when it's done. Charlie Larkin
ian ashton Posted January 10, 2011 Author Posted January 10, 2011 I spent a little time last night on this project, working on the wheels a bit. I started with a set of my steelies, painted body color: For tires I am using a set of old AMT Prestige white walls that I stole from a kit I have since traded off, they are perfect for this build. Since I'm going to be using Missing Link Resin's dog dish hub caps (picking 'em up tomorrow!) I didn't bother with lug nuts, just the valve stems. Stems trimmed, ready for the caps! I'm also using a set of my resin Drum Brake wheel backs, to add a bit more detail: I'm so excited about this piece, but unfortunately its nearly impossible to get a decent photograph. I ordered a set of Scenes Unlimited drum brakes, so I think I'm going to do a 'wheel off' type of build, where one of the rear wheels is left off the car, exposing the rear brake detail. These pieces are ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL, I highly reccomend 'em!
crazyjim Posted January 10, 2011 Posted January 10, 2011 Nice, Ian. Very nice. Want to dress up those valve stems somewhat? Take some Micro Krystal Klear and add a drop to the tip of the stem. It'll dry clear and then you can paint the tip whatever color you want. Makes it look like there's a cap a the tip of the stem.
ian ashton Posted January 11, 2011 Author Posted January 11, 2011 Nice, Ian. Very nice. Want to dress up those valve stems somewhat? Take some Micro Krystal Klear and add a drop to the tip of the stem. It'll dry clear and then you can paint the tip whatever color you want. Makes it look like there's a cap a the tip of the stem. Awesome tip! Definitely doing it!
ian ashton Posted January 12, 2011 Author Posted January 12, 2011 More progress, wooowooo! I got the rear suspension installed (still have to put the shocks on, no biggie there I have a little more research to do on them before I commit...) I used Bare Metal Foil Matte Al for the gas tank straps, and looking at this picture reminded me that I forgot to put exhaust clamps on, oh well; I couldn't find the what the rear end markings were for the 8 3/4, so I just duplicated what they would be on a Dana, close enough. I bet if I wouldn't have told ya, you wouldn't have known, haha. My Scenes Unlimited drum brake assembly - I just think these parts are so freaking cool! A poor and dusty picture of the final wheel and tire combo. I picked up the Missing Link hub caps from Kevin today, and they are even nicer than I had expected! I'm really glad I decided to go with these instead of nothing, or the Revell '68 Charger caps that are totally goofy.
ian ashton Posted January 12, 2011 Author Posted January 12, 2011 I also got the final coat of red paint on the body today. In the next few days I'm hoping to get the grille area taped off and sprayed silver, then decal, clear, BMF, and assemble!
ChrisPflug Posted January 12, 2011 Posted January 12, 2011 What research did you need to do on shocks? OE units would be black 1" bore Oriflow units, dust shields front and rear, should have a small paint dab on the reserve tube near the lower eye to color code different OE part numbers Are you sure about the resonator in the exhaust system? All the info I've come across only shows them on factory dual installations, single exhaust from 198 through 383 2 barrel seem to have just used the muffler and turndown
ian ashton Posted January 12, 2011 Author Posted January 12, 2011 What research did you need to do on shocks? OE units would be black 1" bore Oriflow units, dust shields front and rear, should have a small paint dab on the reserve tube near the lower eye to color code different OE part numbers Are you sure about the resonator in the exhaust system? All the info I've come across only shows them on factory dual installations, single exhaust from 198 through 383 2 barrel seem to have just used the muffler and turndown That's exactly what I wanted on the shocks, thanks! On the exhaust I left the resonator on because one of the pics I have of the real car appeared to have it, although I'm not 100% sure.
ian ashton Posted January 12, 2011 Author Posted January 12, 2011 And just as I posted that I found a pic of the chassis, showing rear end markings and lack of resonator. Maybe I'll correct it, but probably not, I'm a slacker.
ian ashton Posted January 13, 2011 Author Posted January 13, 2011 Body is done with paint, and I got the grill area silver'd up as well. Hoping to get the decals on today and clear tomorrow. I used Testors 1 Coat whatever the Silver color is called, its a little bright for the grill area, but close enough, it also has a nice bit of texture similar to the 1:1; I'm still debating on what to do with the R/T Grill, I need to eliminate the R/T badge, and ultimately would like to slide the Challenger script over (or eliminate completely and use a decal), so I'm going to try to cast the left side mesh, flip it upside down and use it for the right. We'll see how it goes. I may just end up painting the mesh and R/T logo black, and plopping a Challenger script decal on the stock grill if the above doesn't work.
ian ashton Posted January 14, 2011 Author Posted January 14, 2011 I got the decals and BMF done last night, and cleared everything earlier today, and I must say its lookin pretty good I've said it before and I'll say it again, I love these Keith Marks decals - I just used the Challenger scripts, but they are so nice. It looks a little orange in the pics, I think its the 40 watt desk lamp messing with my white balance.
Nick Winter Posted January 14, 2011 Posted January 14, 2011 That is sweet looking Ian, I love Keiths Decals to, Although the last I used where more than just the scripts
ian ashton Posted January 15, 2011 Author Posted January 15, 2011 Thanksfor the tip - I ended up just sanding the emblems off on the grill, and am going to put a Challenger decal in the right spot. Good enough for me
Rob Hall Posted January 16, 2011 Posted January 16, 2011 I know the scales don't line up exactly, but wouldn't the new (based on the diecast) 1/25 Revell kit have a grille the style you're after? The T/A build version obviously doesn't have the "R/T" script. You may be able to finesse that kit part to fit. Hope that helps. Nope..that kit has the R/T emblem molded to the grille. The T/A parts are not much more than the hood and air cleaner.
ian ashton Posted January 17, 2011 Author Posted January 17, 2011 I'm getting dangerously close to completion... In the process of prepping and painting parts I somehow forgot to include the firewall. This is probably for the better, because the supplied piece is pretty bland. I decided that rather than sanding the details off, filling, and replacing the things I sanded off, it would be easier to cut a new piece from Evergreen sheet, so using the provided firewall as a template I got to work. I just traced the firewall on Evergreen sheet, then cut it out with scissors and razor. The kit firewall has 2 huge openings for the provided hood hinges, so I opted to leave those holes out; The master cylinder in the kit is kind of small, so I snagged the one from the AMT '71 Charger, along with the wiper motor - both excellent castings. For the blower motor I just trimmed a piece of sprue; Hard to tell, but to keep the pieces in place I drilled holes and glued in push pins. I figured this will make final assembly way easier, with less change of a glue spooge; You can also see in this picture the Jack Stand that I fabbed up to put under the axle on the wheel with the exposed brake drum. I used Evergreen for that as well. I know that I've left off the 'v' shaped stamping thing on the top side around the wiper motor - I fiddled a little with this, and to put it in pushed the wiper motor out too far (I believe the firewall is like this to give the wiper motor the correct angle and structrual support) - it just wasn't working for me in plastic, partially because of how the firewall mounts to the body, and the lip thats molded into the cowel, bla bla, so I left it out.
dwc43 Posted January 17, 2011 Posted January 17, 2011 While looking at my reference pics to see if the car had a 4 blade or 7 blade fan (like every Chrysler engine in the late 60's early 70's seems to have had the 7 blade, I have no idea why all these castings give a 4 blade ) Here's the deal on the fans. All small blocks used an unsymmetrical 5 bladed fan unless it got the heavy duty cooling package. Then it got a 7 bladed fan with viscous drive. All big blocks got a 6 or 7 bladed fan. All Hemi's got a 7 bladed fan. All slant 6's got a 4 bladed fixed fan until mid 70's and it picked up a 5 bladed viscous drive fan from the small block. So a 4 blade is correct for your build.
ian ashton Posted January 17, 2011 Author Posted January 17, 2011 Here's the deal on the fans. All small blocks used an unsymmetrical 5 bladed fan unless it got the heavy duty cooling package. Then it got a 7 bladed fan with viscous drive. All big blocks got a 6 or 7 bladed fan. All Hemi's got a 7 bladed fan. All slant 6's got a 4 bladed fixed fan until mid 70's and it picked up a 5 bladed viscous drive fan from the small block. So a 4 blade is correct for your build. I went with a 7, based on the reference pictures from the car. I know with Mopar there is no such thing as 'never' - they seemed to be pretty good at throwing whatever was around on cars.
dwc43 Posted January 17, 2011 Posted January 17, 2011 I went with a 7, based on the reference pictures from the car. I know with Mopar there is no such thing as 'never' - they seemed to be pretty good at throwing whatever was around on cars. That last quote is correct. There where actually some Hemi powered 4 dr Satellites believe it or not. I can take you to one that is factory white 4 dr and Hemi powered. If they ran out of some part on the line they would substitute a better part if it would fit.That's a fact.
John Teresi Posted January 19, 2011 Posted January 19, 2011 Ian......luv it.....your detail work is AWESOME man......can`t wait to see her finished.
ian ashton Posted January 19, 2011 Author Posted January 19, 2011 I'm just about done with this project! I put most of the finishing touches on her yesterday, and I'm pretty happy with the result. Finishing up the firewall before installing into the body: Firewall installed, ready to connect the body and chassis: First fit together: Getting the engine into place: I'll save the rest for an 'Under Glass' thread, I'll link it in here as well
edelbrok2 Posted January 19, 2011 Posted January 19, 2011 Really, really nice build. I'm learning about your project
charlie8575 Posted January 19, 2011 Posted January 19, 2011 An amazing piece of work, Ian. I've thoroughly enjoyed watching this. Charlie Larkin
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