samdiego Posted October 6, 2011 Posted October 6, 2011 I de-bagged the body and have been pondering the shape of this thing. You really need to have a hood in place to do this. I'm a bit more excited now than I was at box-opening. I'd still label it as a hot Rod chop as opposed to a TailDragger chop. But the more i look at it, the more I like it.
John Goschke Posted October 6, 2011 Posted October 6, 2011 OK, I swear, I really was getting pumped up about this kit, looking at scans of the box art, and (heaven help me) something about this photo of the model looked off to me. Look how high the cowl is versus the window sill on the door... So, trolling Rik Hoving's Custom Car Archive, I couldn't find one single photo where the cowl and bottom of the windshield looked as high in relation to the side window sill as it does on the model. Here's an example. I really want to love this kit, but now I don't know...
Draggon Posted October 6, 2011 Posted October 6, 2011 I glued all of the stuff shut on the IMC 48 convert. It came out decent, and I loved the cammer, the carson top, and the Hurst wheelcovers. I had always wished for a one piece body. I never picked up the Revell convert, mostly based upon the horrid box art model, and then my troubles with the IMC version. I have to say, the box art model of Revell's convertible was so far beyond awful that I still haven not bought one. This new coupe however, is on my to do list!
38 Crush Posted October 6, 2011 Author Posted October 6, 2011 Hey Jairus, What year did you go to Lincoln City. Was that this year? I've been there every year except this one. ( didn't like the band) Love the wagon though ! 38 Crush Harold
Jairus Posted October 6, 2011 Posted October 6, 2011 John, good eye! I didn't see that the first time and it is indeed off. But not enough to bug me and should be easy for me to fix by adding the roof from the IMC kit. Harold, the wagon was at Chinook Winds this summer. And the band was not that bad outside. The group inside was not one of my favorites so I didn't listen. Thanks.
38 Crush Posted October 6, 2011 Author Posted October 6, 2011 Yea, this year we went to the Evergreen museum for the model show. Everone else was there too. (SABA) The 50's bands they have had over the years were great but for some reason they have switched to younger bands...not good! 38 Crush
MachinistMark Posted October 15, 2011 Posted October 15, 2011 just got mine - looks incredible! wip thread will be posted soon!
peter31a Posted October 17, 2011 Posted October 17, 2011 I was hoping to use the Olds grill but broke the grill suround trying to get it off the sprue. Not sure what I'm going to do but for now this is a heads up to those ham handed like me.
scale trucker Posted October 17, 2011 Posted October 17, 2011 just picked up 5 of these at local hobby shop..openedall but one and all were very nice minor mold lines and very straight..will build up very nice..
Chuck Most Posted October 17, 2011 Posted October 17, 2011 sprue cutters? Almost guaranteed to break small, delicate parts. Cut them off the runners with a thin photoetched saw, or a nice, sharp exacto blade and light-but-persistent-pressure. Maybe I just have junk sprue cutters, but I broke a couple of dainty parts on a Revell Midget kit using them, even though everybody said sprue cutters were pretty much mandatory with that kit. No issues at all with the saw or blade though.
peter31a Posted October 18, 2011 Posted October 18, 2011 Yep, used sprue cutters. In hindsight razor saw or photo etched cutting blade might have been better.
Chuck Most Posted October 18, 2011 Posted October 18, 2011 I've seen the Perry resin body, and there are so many things wrong with it . 1. The rear wheel opening scale out to 34.7 " were the real car has 34.625 " opening. 2. The side trim stick out .0005 " to much . 3. the side window hieght is to tall by .003" 4............................................................................ Bah... Those can all be explained away by the Metric system. Wait, no, then that would make the windows .003" too short, the side trim .0005 too thin, but somehow the wheel openings end up bigger.
Dr. Cranky Posted October 18, 2011 Posted October 18, 2011 I used to have one of these and I think I traded it . . .
Joe Handley Posted October 18, 2011 Posted October 18, 2011 Eh, a few layers of Enamal should fix those issues.......
Keef Posted October 19, 2011 Posted October 19, 2011 I've seen the Perry resin body, and there are so many things wrong with it . 1. The rear wheel opening scale out to 34.7 " were the real car has 34.625 " opening. 2. The side trim stick out .0005 " to much . 3. the side window hieght is to tall by .003" 4. I'm a total clueless mouth breathing idiot who cant spell the word HEIGHT correctly yes well.....if your gonna be nitpicky about such a tiny measurement that wouldnt be noticable in scale then maybe model building isnt for you, and try not to be so self critical of your spelling, most of us know what you meant
Keef Posted October 19, 2011 Posted October 19, 2011 Oh, I believe wouldnt has one of these thingy's ( ' ) I checked with my college educated wife and isnt has one too. Touche' Good Sir!
Joker Posted October 20, 2011 Posted October 20, 2011 Topic : Replying to Revell's New '48 Ford Custom Coupe 3'n1 WIP slanted posts opened trunk with tuck and roll 3/4 view rolling chassis
Dr. Cranky Posted October 20, 2011 Posted October 20, 2011 Loving it. Great color and wonderful progress.
MikeMc Posted November 14, 2011 Posted November 14, 2011 (edited) Nice kit but those fadeaway fender pieces look like they are going to take a lot of work to blend in. Check out Tims link..... I saw this and glued them up......had to fit the front edge of the skirt...no big deal Edited November 14, 2011 by MikeMc
Junkman Posted November 16, 2011 Posted November 16, 2011 I just can't help but think of how much cooler this would look with a few inches sectioned out of the body. Guess I'll have to try and see, huh? Get out yer Proxxon and start crackin. There is only one way to find out.
HotRodaSaurus Posted November 23, 2011 Posted November 23, 2011 Iv'e not seen the kit yet but looking at the photo of the instruction sheet the front door shut, where it is hinged to the body, when the fadeaway is fitted comes straight out of the bodywork at 90degrees. Is this just me looking at the wrong angle? I recall reading someplace a big problem with fadeaway's is when opening the door the door shuts would foul. Would this need to be re-scribed? Sorry just noticed it, I think the feature was in one of those Dave Featherstone 'Barris' books J
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