Mooneyzs Posted October 5, 2011 Author Posted October 5, 2011 Brad that sounds great. Would love to see your fiat in person. If you can find some extra printing plate awesone if not no worries. Plus I wanted to talk paint ideas with you
Mooneyzs Posted October 6, 2011 Author Posted October 6, 2011 (edited) Sat down for a few tonight and drilled holes on the front blower plate, so not much of an update but a couple of pics..... Â Â Here is all of the holes drilled out: Â Â Â Â Â Here is the front face plate with the bolts test fitted in: Â Edited July 23, 2017 by Mooneyzs
Pro Tech Posted October 6, 2011 Posted October 6, 2011 Coming together nice Chris, bet you're glad that's over huh..... Charlie Pro Tech
gasser59 Posted October 6, 2011 Posted October 6, 2011 Looking more spectacular every post Chris and I'm really looking forward to Saturday. See you then.
Mooneyzs Posted October 6, 2011 Author Posted October 6, 2011 Charlie.... thanks bud... you are right that I am glad that I have all of the holes drilled in the blower. I think I am almost to the point where I can start gluing some of the engine parts and maybe get some primer on it. I know with the blower that I am going to need to fill a few pin holes gonna try to do the ones that I can with no primer but think I am gonna need to hit it with a light coat to see the rest. I will see what I can possibly get done tonight. Brad... Thanks buddy. Feels like I making those baby steps and its coming together little by little. I am looking for to saturday as well. I will be mocking it all up and having the radius rods and everything bolted in place that I can and will be a rolling chassis. I still need to make the motor mounts for the engine block and chassis where it will bolt too, not sure if I will have that done by saturday or not but I have to admit that I am anxious to have that block sitting in the chassis. I think that is one of the things I will be trying to get done over the weekend.
my80malibu Posted October 6, 2011 Posted October 6, 2011 Chris,dont rush anything we all get the picture. Everyone realizes quality work takes time to be done right.
Mooneyzs Posted October 7, 2011 Author Posted October 7, 2011 Gabriel....I am definitely taking my time with this one. Don't want to rush it but I am anxious to get it together though...lol But you are right that quality work takes time
Mooneyzs Posted October 7, 2011 Author Posted October 7, 2011 (edited) So I sat down tonight wanting to do some building didn't get very far but decided to mock it up and take a few pics to get an idea what it will look like. Here are a couple of teaser pics: Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Kind of not sure if I am digging the stance with the body, I am feeling that the back needs to be lowered down a little bit. Debating if I should lower the back end or not but that would require me to redo the are of the rear end and all of the scratch building I did there.... hmmm Edited July 23, 2017 by Mooneyzs
Mooneyzs Posted October 7, 2011 Author Posted October 7, 2011 On edit: Looks like others would like to see it as well so we can just meet up in the parking lot at 8:30. I'll be in the extended cab white GMC Sierra. Very much looking forward to seeing your FC creation. Brad, I some how missed this. You won't be able to miss my yellow xb.... :lol:
gasser59 Posted October 7, 2011 Posted October 7, 2011 (edited) What would be involved with lowering the rear? Is the roll cage hitting the rear window cover or is it the location of the fabricated mounts you made? Edited October 7, 2011 by gasser59
Mooneyzs Posted October 7, 2011 Author Posted October 7, 2011 (edited) Brad I would need to basically move the rear end up. as you saw the body in the pic the body was sitting on the roll cage. the tires need to be tucked up in the body a little more. Here are a few images I just edited to kind of show whats going on. Â I would have to modify the brackets that the rear end is mounted too by moving them up. I was trying to represent the bracket in the blue and circled in red is the area needed to be modified. looks like it could be adjusted about 1/4" up.. Â Â Â Â Â If I did decided to modify the rear end mount I would have to redo what is circled in red here: Â Â Â Â Â As well as modifying the top support tube braces I put in I would have to modify the bottom as well. The only problem I would possibly see is the angle of the driveshaft: Â Â Â Â Â Here is a pic of the actual car and the stance of it, not sure if this was the stance how it was raced or if they modified it since they rebuild it for display: Â Â Edited July 23, 2017 by Mooneyzs
gasser59 Posted October 7, 2011 Posted October 7, 2011 Man Chris, that is alot of adjusting to get the proper height. It looks like a lot of those frame sub-assemblies would need to be rebuilt as well as moving the frame mounts up.
brett Posted October 7, 2011 Posted October 7, 2011 Chris, heres a pic from a vid capture off american nitro, probably one of the more reliable untouched sources around theres a few more pics here http://s1188.photobucket.com/albums/z410/doorslammerfan/reference%20stuff/ hope this helps buddy
Mooneyzs Posted October 7, 2011 Author Posted October 7, 2011 Man Chris, that is alot of adjusting to get the proper height. It looks like a lot of those frame sub-assemblies would need to be rebuilt as well as moving the frame mounts up. Brad exactly..... It would be a great deal of work and those frame sub-assemblies that I built would have to be redone as well. It would of been much easier to do if I would have caught this earlier on but I think at the time I didn't think about trying to mock it up with the body to get a feel for the body height. Part of me says it's too much work to redo and the other part says to redo it since I already have all of this time into it. Another option is I could Pull out another frame and redo it all but that would really involve doing alot more work. I could always use this frame for my Fiat build....and start over . Everyone else I would like to hear your opinions on this. Brett... Thanks man, I checked out the rest of the pics and some of the pics look like it has a higher ride height from the rim to the wheel well. So maybe what I have isn't too bad. I appreciated the pics
W-409 Posted October 7, 2011 Posted October 7, 2011 That looks super nice on those mock up pictures! I like this project very much, detail work and scratchbuilding is at amazing level. Hopefully I can build something this nicely after 40 years of practising... That Monza FC looks very good too. Great, two Army Funny Cars and both H-Bodies.
Mooneyzs Posted October 7, 2011 Author Posted October 7, 2011 Niko thanks for the compliment. One of my pieces of advice would be to have patience and dont rush things. Guess thats two lol. I took a couple of side shots that I will have to post later. The rear stance isnt bad but think its just a smidge higher than i'd like is all. At least now i know what to do on any future funny car builds lol
gasser59 Posted October 7, 2011 Posted October 7, 2011 Chris - don't committ to any thing just yet and let's look it over in the morning. Two heads are better than one as they say.
djway3474 Posted October 7, 2011 Posted October 7, 2011 You have 3 choices. 1-leave the ride height as is. 2-lower the roll bar. Looking at you pict probably would not get you as low as you want. 3-Raise the mount as you have shown in the blue outline above. That is exactly what I do to ALL my Revell FC chassis in both scales. It looks as if you would only need to recut 6 small pieces of plastic. Maybe 2 hours of work which will allow you to avoid years of, "What I should have done". In for a penny in for a pound. I think there has to be something off in the geomotry in the Revell chassis ride height as all thier FC kits seem to be way to high in the rear. Something I discoverd years ago. As a second step I always re engineer the interior tin as it also keeps the body too high. That involves decreasing the height of the front vertical plate and shortening the rear mount tab. Try unbolting your rear memeber and tape it into place under that horizontal body support. Then place the body on the car. It should look pretty good. Then place the tin in the body and set the body back on the frame. I have a feeling it will be high again. If so attack the problem now. Good luck and keep up the great work.
Mooneyzs Posted October 7, 2011 Author Posted October 7, 2011 Brad... I wasnt planing on doing anything until I showed you guys. Dwayne.... I really appreciate your opinion in this. Thank you, I have to agree with you on the whole should of done this down the road. I am afraid thats what I would be doing if i dont fix it now. And thinking of it it really isnt that big of a fix, it will just take a few hours to do. Learning now how off the ride height was in this kit, I will be making sure and fixing the ride heights from the get go on these builds in the future. You would of thought that the engineers that designed this kit would have done a little better job with the ride height. Thanks again
gasser59 Posted October 7, 2011 Posted October 7, 2011 I really hate to add this to the conversion conversation but how will raising the rear axle affect the ground clearance of the headers and the bottom frame rail being parallel to the ground? All of these need to be considered before committing to a fix.
Mooneyzs Posted October 7, 2011 Author Posted October 7, 2011 Brad that is true too. Hmm I will have to take a look at that. Glad you pointed that out. Well the one thing is that I still need to fabricate the motor mounts so I could adjust the height there for the headers if need be. In the pick i have the engine sitting.on a block holding it up close to the area it should sit.
eviltwincustoms Posted October 7, 2011 Posted October 7, 2011 (edited) So I sat down tonight wanting to do some building didn't get very far but decided to mock it up and take a few pics to get an idea what it will look like. Here are a couple of teaser pics: Kind of not sure if I am digging the stance with the body, I am feeling that the back needs to be lowered down a little bit. Debating if I should lower the back end or not but that would require me to redo the are of the rear end and all of the scratch building I did there.... hmmm It is cool that you have it sitting on its own 4 wheels/tires now and looks awesome! Oh.... Chris this is a tough call and a heart breaker when you get this far and notice something wasn't done just so, to get you at your ride height you are looking for. Not to be Captain Obvious, but this would have been the perfect time to set up the chassis at Ride Height and block out the rear differential so you would have had a better understanding of where it needed to set. Your body is it by chance Resin? or is it the original styrene plastic body? If it is resin, you can cheat and grind some thickness off the roof to help it where the roll bar is hitting the top of the car. How about this to help with the roof hitting, cut the four parts of the Head Ache Rack/Roll bar and bring it down then glue it back into place. You may be able to get away with doing that to help, then drop your rear end to get the body to drop a little more. Or do all 3 of these suggestions and you may be back on track! Edited October 7, 2011 by eviltwincustoms
Mooneyzs Posted October 8, 2011 Author Posted October 8, 2011 Bart... Thanks buddy. Yeah its all good. Been thinking abou this at work today and it doesn't seem like it will be a real tuff fix, its more so just some elbow grease. I have to blame myself for not paying attention to this small detail sooner like when I was doing all of the support tube. . This body is the original styrene plastic body. I think I am going to go remove the rear end and then mock it up where I want it to be and will take a few pics to show where it is right now and what the goal is. Give me a few and will get some pics up
eviltwincustoms Posted October 8, 2011 Posted October 8, 2011 Uh, its been a few. Where's those pix? Patience Young Jedi, as the force is strong is this master builder. He will work himself out of this predicament in due time.
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