Bottled Flat Aluiminum Paint - Suggestions?

[larrygre]

Hey all,

I've been using Testors Aluminum paint (the small square bottle) for a while now with pretty good results. But the other day, after brush painting an exhaust system on a promo chassis and despite mixing the living heck out of it, the paint dried with a glossy clear shine to it. Its supposed to be FLAT aluminum, isnt it? The bottle of paint is less than a year old.

I used to love using Pactra Flat Aluminum when Pactra actually existed. Now thats a part of history. Tamiya's acrylic XF-16 is too "grainy" but IS flat in appearance. Humbrol 56 Aluminum is dark, almost what other paint makers call 'steel'.

Any good suggestions for a brushable bottled Flat Aluminum?

Thanks, y'all.

[Eshaver]

Larry, years ago, I used to sell a brand of paint in 1/2 pint cans known as "Fix-All" . they sold in hardware stores like Ace. They also had Black and Brown too. You might also look into what Michiaels sell in the "Small " bottled Acrylic paints too like Folk - Art brand........ Ed Shaver

[Longbox55]

Beleive it or not, I use Testors Metalizer aluminum plate, right out of the jar. It takes some patience to hand brush it, and you'll have to give it several coats, but it can be brushed on.

[Bobdude]

I agree with Bill.I use the non-buffing metalizer.

[MikeMc]

I will third on the non buffing metalizer....the other thing that keeps jumping up is dullkote.....one of my favorite paints!!

[Guest]

I use Testors Model Master round bottles of aluminum.

[Agent G]

I'm partial to Floquil's "Old Silver" enamel to look like aluminum. It brushes well, just remember to stir it like crazy. If not mixed well it will cover, but will be fragile and rub off easily.

Don't ask...............

G

[Mooneyzs]

I have always been happy with Tamiya's aluminum compaired to model masters. but I have also been know to use Orchard supply rattle can aluminum as well.

[oldscool]

You might want to try some Humbrol #56 aluminum. Dries dead flat and is really useful if you want a cast aluminum look like transmissions.

grumpy gus

[larrygre]

Thanks for all the suggestions, my friends.

Also, Krylon Flat Aluminum in the rattle can is great stuff. Its great for simulating a cast aluminum feel and its NOT grainy at all. Give it a try.

I also found a well-kept secret from the military airplane side of modelling. Xtracolor is an enamel paint similar to Humbrol and manufactured for Hannants of the UK. Their line includes Duralumin, Natural Steel, Oily Steel, Gun Metal, and Burnt Iron. You don't have to order the stuff from the UK as there are several Internet mail order houses that stock Xtracolor.

And thanks to all of you who let me know thay have the same problem with Testors Aluminum, both square bottle and Model Master. Seems there is a problem endemic to the paint that Testors likely should be made aware of.

[Tony T]

I've been happy using Tamiya Flat Aluminum.

[59 Impala]

I don't know if you can still get it, but I use SNJ's aluminum powder mixed in enamel thinner and it covers great and dries where as Testors small bottle silver never dries. Dan

[jbwelda]

i have found that a coat of dullcote, either brushed or sprayed for larger surfaces, does miracles. even makes that "flat aluminum" look flat.

one thing though, im not sure if i got this from James Bond or what but i much prefer to stir my bottle paint vs shaking it. i got coffee stir sticks at smart & final and they were cheap and work great for sanding sticks etc too. its amazing how much thick paint (the color actually) is gummed up down at the bottom of one of those model master bottles. even with a bb or two in the jar (you know about that right, for use when shaking?) most of the color doesnt get dissolved by just random shaking. but get in there with a stick beforehand and you really mix up your paint! problem i have with metallic paints is they de-mix too quickly: if you manage to get the part painted with the first dip into the paint your golden, but you can see the particles swimming around separating from the thinner right in front of your eyes! but then the dullcote comes to the rescue by how it unifies surfaces miraculously!

[MADmodelDOCTOR]

one thing though, im not sure if i got this from James Bond or what but i much prefer to stir my bottle paint vs shaking it.

[larrygre]

i have found that a coat of dullcote, either brushed or sprayed for larger surfaces, does miracles. even makes that "flat aluminum" look flat.

one thing though, im not sure if i got this from James Bond or what but i much prefer to stir my bottle paint vs shaking it. i got coffee stir sticks at smart & final and they were cheap and work great for sanding sticks etc too. its amazing how much thick paint (the color actually) is gummed up down at the bottom of one of those model master bottles. even with a bb or two in the jar (you know about that right, for use when shaking?) most of the color doesnt get dissolved by just random shaking. but get in there with a stick beforehand and you really mix up your paint! problem i have with metallic paints is they de-mix too quickly: if you manage to get the part painted with the first dip into the paint your golden, but you can see the particles swimming around separating from the thinner right in front of your eyes! but then the dullcote comes to the rescue by how it unifies surfaces miraculously!

Bill, some time agoi I invested in a pair of Tamiya's stainless steel paint mixing stirrers. Those have been like gold to me. One side is a flat thin blade shape (screwdriver-style) and the other end is a dimpled micro-spoon, just perfect for adding a tinge of something into the mix when you need to. They NEVER go bad and are easy to wipe down and clean.

The coffee stirrers work OK and are throwaways so that's a point in THEIR favor. But because the Tamiya stinless steel stirrers arent as flexible, they will get the pigment out of the nooks and crannies of the bottles better, IMO.

Just my $.02.

[LAone]

i too agree with stirring instead of shaking. i use a piece of stainless steel welding rod to stir paints up or a scrap piece of sprue. making sure to grab all the paint on the bottom of the bottle.

i have a bottle of tamiya flat aluminum, i have had it for, shoot 11 years now(brush paint only) and it still mixes great and i don't find it too be grainy if stirred every couple of minutes. and yes thats 11 years, the bottle has a price tag of 1.99 with a date of 05 00. they were restocking it when i walked in.

[crowe-t]

Is Tamiya acrylic XF-16 Flat Aluminum better than Testors Acryl Aluminum? 

Does Tamiya acrylic XF-16 Flat Aluminum look like a metalizer?

Edited September 19, 2015 by crowe-t

[Mark]

X2 on Humbrol, also on "stirred, not shaken".  Like most other metallics, Humbrol "de-mixes" or settles fairly quickly.  Every few minutes, I'll stir the paint in the tin, and also wipe the paint out of the brush because anything left in the brush is "de-mixing" also.  You don't have to do a full-on cleaning; just wipe it with a clean rag (you don't want to put lint on the brush that will be going right back into the paint).  Dullcote, or Humbrol flat varnish, does a great job of leveling the flatness on the finished job, even if you dragged the brush around a bit too much while applying the color.  If you've got a big paint booger (dry-brush spot caused by overlapping strokes) in the middle of a wide-open area, though, you should fix that and touch up the area before putting on the clear.  I try to paint the hard-to-get-at sections first, then go after the more wide open areas after wiping any settled paint out of the brush.   

[Eric N.]

I like alclad flat aluminum.I also like Humbrol

[jeffbrad]

I'm another one who brushes metalizers. Works fine, just usually takes a couple coats. As for mixing, I always drop a couple bb's in a new bottle. Kinda stirs while shaking lol. Just don't use steel bb's in acrylic paints. Don't ask how I know

[Skip]

i have found that a coat of dullcote, either brushed or sprayed for larger surfaces, does miracles. even makes that "flat aluminum" look flat.

 

one thing though, im not sure if i got this from James Bond or what but i much prefer to stir my bottle paint vs shaking it. i got coffee stir sticks at smart & final and they were cheap and work great for sanding sticks etc too. its amazing how much thick paint (the color actually) is gummed up down at the bottom of one of those model master bottles. even with a bb or two in the jar (you know about that right, for use when shaking?) most of the color doesnt get dissolved by just random shaking. but get in there with a stick beforehand and you really mix up your paint! problem i have with metallic paints is they de-mix too quickly: if you manage to get the part painted with the first dip into the paint your golden, but you can see the particles swimming around separating from the thinner right in front of your eyes! but then the dullcote comes to the rescue by how it unifies surfaces miraculously!

jb always comes up with the good ideas!  Years ago when McDonalds had the plastic coffee stirrers that looked like a little spoon. (Coke spoon I heard, never did that though. The carbonation bothers my sinuses!!)  Those worked really well for stirring the settled pigment off of the bottom of paint bottles.  Now days I use one of those Badger battery operated paint mixers, gets right down there to the bottom of things and really gets the metallic suspended like it originally was.

Edited September 20, 2015 by Skip
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[Skip]

 

oh yeah I got the Badger Paint Mixer off of EvilBay for under $10 including shipping

[Quick GMC]

The manifold and intake on this 1/12 is Tamiya Flat Aluminum, then I lightly rubbed it down with my fingers, or you could lightly weather it with Tamiya Weatehering kit, A tissue, etc. to knock the sheen down

 

 

If you want absolute dead flat aluminum color, Alclad Flat Aluminum has zero sheen, its absolutely flat

 

This is also Tamiya Flat Aluminum

Edited September 20, 2015 by Quick GMC

[snacktruck67]

 

oh yeah I got the Badger Paint Mixer off of EvilBay for under $10 including shipping

Ditto