Harry P. Posted July 4, 2011 Share Posted July 4, 2011 Based on a comment above, you would think that with today's technology and materials that kit companies could come up with far more realistic wire wheels, and the aftermarket choices are better but not great. And if finer materials and manufacturing techniques could be available, why not offer separate chrome window surrounds and body trim that would make BMF obsolete? They could offer far more realistic wire wheels, and separate chrome trim (assuming we're talking about a newly-tooled kit and not a reissue)... but it would cost more $$$ to do a kit right. Unfortunately, doing a kit right isn't exactly Job One for most manufacturers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harold Posted July 4, 2011 Share Posted July 4, 2011 They could offer far more realistic wire wheels, and separate chrome trim (assuming we're talking about a newly-tooled kit and not a reissue)... but it would cost more $$$ to do a kit right. Unfortunately, doing a kit right isn't exactly Job One for most manufacturers. The best kit wire wheels I ever came across, bar none, are in the AMT '65 Riviera (and this was tooled when LBJ was in the White House). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highway Posted July 4, 2011 Share Posted July 4, 2011 ...and isn't germane to this thread. What do the Germans have to do with this thread!?!?! And if finer materials and manufacturing techniques could be available, why not offer separate chrome window surrounds and body trim that would make BMF obsolete? Ok, on the serious side now, I think that would be a nice idea for the model companies to do Skip, but I think it may also lead to more flaws that I didn't happen to see mentioned yet, untreated chrome attachment points. I know I have seen more than a few models posted here that look beautiful in the pics, but then you see where the bumper was cut from the sprue and never cleaned up! I'm not saying I'm perfect at this, I forget it sometimes myself, but it doesn't take that long to take a small sanding stick and clean the area up as carefully as possible without ruining the whole piece and either hide the area with a small piece of BMF or even a little spot of silver paint. One other issue I see a lot, and admittedly am also guilty of sometimes, regarding chrome on tractor trailer builds are the separation lines on the two piece fuel tanks. I, more than anyone, love all the shiny bits on my trucks, but you just don't see 1:1 trucks with big cracks running all the way around the fuel tanks, and even more rarely are the tanks chromed. The chrome looks nice, but take a few extra minutes to sand the seam away, and if you want the tanks to look polished with a chromelike shine, use some Alclad polished aluminum or chrome, or even some BMF. If it's going to be a more fleet style truck or even a show truck with very light weathering, DupliColor Chrome (not the Bumper Chrome) paint even does a nice job! I painted these fenders with DupliColor Chrome, and it looks very much like a polished aluminum that has been through a rainstorm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Winter Posted July 4, 2011 Share Posted July 4, 2011 What do the Germans have to do with this thread!?!?! Sorry, carry on. Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sixties Sam Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 Wow! Good thread - lots of great tips. Thanks, guys. Maybe it's blasphemy, but I'm just not as detail oriented as many of the guys here. I don't build for contests, so I don't worry about all the fine details. That would take the fun out of model building for me. I build to a reasonable detail level (for me), then call it done. I've shown my models and dioramas in a couple local car shows and gotten many nice compliments, and that's good enough for me. If I take a hobby too seriously, it's not fun anymore, it's work. I don't like work! Sorry if I've offended anyone. I marvel at the incredibly detailed models I see on this forum, and I admire the skill and perseverance of the builders, but I really don't aspire to their level. Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Sumner Posted July 5, 2011 Author Share Posted July 5, 2011 Wow! Good thread - lots of great tips. Thanks, guys. Maybe it's blasphemy, but I'm just not as detail oriented as many of the guys here. I don't build for contests, so I don't worry about all the fine details. That would take the fun out of model building for me. I build to a reasonable detail level (for me), then call it done. I've shown my models and dioramas in a couple local car shows and gotten many nice compliments, and that's good enough for me. If I take a hobby too seriously, it's not fun anymore, it's work. I don't like work! Sorry if I've offended anyone. I marvel at the incredibly detailed models I see on this forum, and I admire the skill and perseverance of the builders, but I really don't aspire to their level. Sam Sam you are not offending anyone nor do you have anything to apologise to anyone for. Each modeler has the right to enjoy this hobby to whatever level they derive the most fun from. For me personally, I like to build for contests and I thrive on accuracy as much as I'm capable of. But that has no bearing whatsoever on your desired level of accuracy. I only started this thread in the hopes that we could come up with somewhat of a definitive list of common errors that other guys who aspire to be more accurate could refer to to make their builds better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 At the risk of being controversial... I agree with all of the above, but my biggest bugbear in many WELL-MADE models, is a beautifully executed super-smooth, deeply lacquered paint finish... that looks totally unrealistic and not at all like the prototype. The vast majority of real cars - not specially prepared show cars, but the real cars driven around real streets or on real racing circuits - simply don’t have glass-like “ultradeep†paint finishes. And ESPECIALLY not 50s/60s/70s race and sports cars - look at any period photos of a 250GTO, rather than beautiful “art†images of today’s restored and cherished examples, for example... The most realistic finish I’ve yet found is polished Tamiya acrylic sprays, with no clear coat. All those extra coats and rubbing down and clearcoats simply “blur†the details, make the panel lines less crisp, and quite often, frankly, make the beautiful model look toylike. IMHO, obviously ;-) bestest, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 I'll add another one I don't think has been mentioned......... Ill fitting glass! Nothing takes away a from a beautiful model more than glass that wasn't fitted properly where the gaps around the perimeter are HUGE. Especially '50's, early '60's cars is where one needs to really pay attention to the fit of the glass due to their wraparound windshields. Even "professionally built" models I've seen go for big bucks on the 'Bay suffer from this malady. Now no one is perfect in getting all the details well done, but that's one that sticks out like a skunk in a space suit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbk Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 Yeah, here are a few of mine. Horn rings that are about 1-2 scale inches thick. Body colored vent window posts & vent window trim. I cannot say I've seen many, if any, 1:1 cars like that. Shallow body panel lines filled with body colored paint or worse yet, painted black. Scribe the panel lines deeper, & you'll have real shadows, not painted ones. Opening panels that do not close properly. That one, I will never understand. I see very few builds with opening doors that close & blend into the body in a realistic manner. As someone else mentioned, wheels that stick a few scale inches out of the tire. Hubcaps with no evidence of a wheel behind it. Stance is everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FASTBACK340 Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 Don't leave out the steering wheel installed with .0000256" between the bottom of the rim and the lower seat cushion and about 11" scale inches from the upper backrest. How do you drive it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seeker589 Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 (edited) Sorry - I have to claim artistic license. I'm pretty sure Tom Daniels did when he designed many of his kits that are now considered icons of our hobby. What about Ricki Couch or Winston (Spelling may not be correct - heck the people I'm referencing may not be correct) their builds were EPIC. If a builder wants to paint his undercarriage bright pink - I'm pretty sure they can - it is their model. Now if they enter it in a contest and don't win and then have a tantrum about it - then there is a problem. On to the pet peeves that everyone wants. Stance is everything! - what-ever the suspension travel would be in scale. So it would ride like a buck-board - I ain't driving it - I'm looking at it on a table or shelf. Steering columns that are in impossible angles and could never connect to the steering box in any way - and it is very visible especially on a hot rod or roadster with opening doors. A builder using tons of aftermarket parts on a model - but the model isn't that great. Stance is off, wheels aren't square, colors are not complementary to each other. Builds that confuse themes. A drag car with BBS wheels - for example. Chrome wheels on a 90s and later road race car. Rub-on tire decals on tires the manufacturer never made! 14 in wide Tiger paw slicks? Really? Rub-on tire decals that don't follow the proper contour of the tire. When you do it- it highlights the mistake! I'd rather see NO lettering detail. Wings turned backwards. Panel seams made too dark - almost like the door jambs were painted black right up to the edge. Wide tires not sitting flat on the table. A pro street car - untubbed with tires that aren't more than 10 inches wide - slicks or not. People do race their pro street cars sometimes. "Chrome" Centerline auto drags. Chrome brake discs. Roll bars being called roll-cages without a halo bar or forward down bars(at the A-pillar - attached to the floor in the drivers and passengers foot-well) Rule of thumb - you sit in front of a roll-bar and you sit inside a roll-cage. Lastly - roll-cages built with NO consideration of stresses and sheering force. Consult a rule book - go to websites of vendors of 1:1 scale bars and cages - like Alston, S&W Chassis works, or even photos taken on the web. There has to be photos of a build similar to yours SOMEWHERE on the web. The web is huge! I'm really glad someone didn't start extolling the virtues of the perfect Hemi engine orange. It's Orange! As long as they didn't paint it tangerine - there would HAVE to be a Hangin'. Edited July 6, 2011 by seeker589 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FASTBACK340 Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 I'm really glad someone didn't start extolling the virtues of the perfect Hemi engine orange. It's Orange! As long as they didn't paint it tangerine - there would HAVE to be a Hangin'. Now you did it.... Hemi orange is a different color than the other orange color used on the big blocks Mopar's and later 340's... And the air cleaner lid on 6 BBl's is a different shade too. Use Chebbie orange and a public lynching is DEFINITELY in order. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trae Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 One thing that always bothers me, mostly because I think I'm super critical like that, is totally inaccurate order of plug wires on a distributor cap. Wires don't come out four on one side and four on the opposite all nice and even. In these days of easy Google searches it's pretty easy to find out what the correct firing order of almost any engine is. I like to get the order right on my builds, but even if someone didn't want 100% accuracy, changing up the order and crossing a few of the wires over will give a much more accurate appearance. On a factory stock or race car, I agree completely. But on a custom, street rod, etc., I wouldn't be too quick to judge. In 1:1, that look is easily achieved with an aftermarket distributor cap, such as an Accel 8141R. Been thinking about picking one up myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FASTBACK340 Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 .... and the 2 loose bolts on the air cleaner lid replicates what? Just busting balljoints. BTW: The air cleaner lid on my Barracuda matches the body color instead of being "correct" Besides, correctness is moot. A 6Bbl. was never offered on a `68 A Body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seeker589 Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 (edited) Now you did it.... Hemi orange is a different color than the other orange color used on the big blocks Mopar's and later 340's... And the air cleaner lid on 6 BBl's is a different shade too. Use Chebbie orange and a public lynching is DEFINITELY in order. I know how the Mopar Oranges are different and I know how difficult some Mopar people are about it. My buddy painted his 440 Six Pack R/T engine and headers White as well as the inner fender-wells. You have NO idea how much that increases the visibility at night at a small town local drag strip or especially on the side of the road! I needed an orange for a 440 Six Pack I am building - I had Testors "Competition orange" - Guess what I used? I claim artistic license! Edited July 6, 2011 by seeker589 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan S. Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 On a factory stock or race car, I agree completely. But on a custom, street rod, etc., I wouldn't be too quick to judge. In 1:1, that look is easily achieved with an aftermarket distributor cap, such as an Accel 8141R. Been thinking about picking one up myself. I totally agree. But if people are going to go that route, then they should make a topper for the distributor cap, like the Accel one you have pictured. Without it, it doesn't look right to me. IMHO of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seeker589 Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 I have to ask - As avid and energetic as some of these pet peeves are - If a build with one or more of each of our peeves is displayed - is it discounted entirely or can we learn and grow or be inspired by what we see in other people's builds weather we agree with how they did it or not? Isn't that the reason this forum exists? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 I agree! The day someone builds a model which doesn't display a single one of the many "issues" raised here is the day the perfect model is built, and we can all give up and go home... I know _I'll_ never build one like that, and I prefer to think that I can learn something from every build I see, no matter how many things about it may niggle me. Just because someone does a bunch of things I may not like on their model doesn't mean they don't do _one_ thing better or cleverer than I know how to do, in which case I can try it that way on my next build. I think what makes the truly great modellers out there as good as they are is that they never stop learning, trying new things, developing and improving... bestest, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandpaMcGurk Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 Otherwise meticulously detailed engines with no dip sticks! They are easy to make by simply stripping a bit of insulation from the end of a length of small gauge wire and bending a finger loop on the exposed end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjim Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 At 7:02pm EST, I completed the compiliation of this thread in MS Word. I'm told that a MS Word document cannot be posted on this forum. No sweat! It fills about 2 pages in a 12 point font. I'm planning to maintain the file and try to sort it out a little. If you'd like a copy, send me a PM with a real email address and it's yours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougp Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 Jim, pm sent and with a copy of a complitation I created for our clubs website. You can post your list by doing a copy and paste in the editor instead of attaching a file or document. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjim Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 I've tried to compile the posts made to this thread into one place and seperated into groups. Basic Preparation Mold/seam lines not removed. Sprue nibs on chrome parts. Slow down, take your time, and do it right the first time. Plan your build. Test fit the parts. Wash body and all parts to be painted in soap and water. Engine Oversized parts in the engine bay. Especially ignition wires. Mold line running across the radiator. The magic "floating alternator" that somehow miraculously floats in space, supported by nothing, yet still manages to keep the belts tight. Wrong engine colors (not all Ford engines are blue, for example). Use of correct Mopar orange. Meticulously detailed engines with no dipstick. Interior Ill fitting glass and window trim. Glue on the windows. Thick horn rings. Steering wheel in incorrect position. Roll bar vs roll cage. Chassis/Suspension Mold separation lines down the axle tubes. It seems like any drag car with a high front end is automatically a gasser. Giant wheel/tire setup that allows for exactly zero suspension travel or steering movement. Factory overspray on the chassis. Hubcaps with no evidence of a wheel behind it. Models not sitting straight, often due to not cleaning the mold nubs off of the tire tread. Directional tires that are mounted backwards. Chrome Centerline wheels. Chrome disk brakes. Decals that don’t follow tire contour. All 4 tires not on the ground. Tires that look like they're falling off the wheel. Body Ill fitting hoods that don't line up, or have a corner sticking up. The headlights and they aren't straight. The lines are running vertical or diagonal but not horizontal like they should be. Failure to polish out paint. Orange peel, boogers in the paint, uneven gloss. Hoods that are lighter or darker than the body or a pickup that has a darker or lighter bed. On street or factory stock cars, Inner fenders that come nowhere close to meeting up with the outer "sheet metal," or that are missing completely. BMF that is sloppy, uneven, and not burnished down properly. Side marker lights painted on sloppy and in the wrong color. Not all turn signal lenses are amber. Body colored vent window posts and vent trim. Opening panels that don’t close properly. Wing turned backwards. Panel seams too dark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brett Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 Thanks Jim, for taking the time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjim Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 You're welcome, Brett. I should say it was a labor of love, but it was a pain in the rearend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kodiak Island Modeler Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 You're welcome, Brett. I should say it was a labor of love, but it was a pain in the rearend. My wife sometimes says that about me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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