Question about Micro Mesh

[martinfan5]

Hey guys, I know this might sound like a stupid question, but I have been trying to make my paint jobs better, so I picked up a micro mesh kit , I bought the Revell kit at a LHS, it didn't come with the compound , but I do have both a bottle of polishing compound and scratch X.

I know the basics for the most part, but the part that I dont is, do you use the pads and wetsand, or do you use a rubbing compound?.

[niteowl7710]

Couple of other things...always make sure you alternate patterns between grits. Aka up and down, and then back and forth. If you sand it the same way the whole way through you'll just end up with a bunch of shiny scratches. The other being to always start at the highest # grit you can get away with, there's no real purpose in going through all of the sanding pads unless you have to, and at the point you might as well strip it and start over because you'll cut through the paint before it's all over with. I use the low grit (2400) to scuff primer before painting and that's about it. 4800 makes me nervous unless I'm going to be adding more paint. I try to start at 6000, and then do 8,000, 12,000 and then the compound.

You really don't have to apply a lot of pressure, just let the pads do their thing, and the wet sanding can't be wet enough but make sure you dry the part off every so often and check it under a good light to check your progress as it's not easy to tell if you got that piece of fuzz or hair out, especially on a dark color when it's wet.

[moparfarmer]

James has got it going the right way. Finish up with one of Meguiare's fine cutting coumpounds with their Gold Class paste wax.

You'll have a real good smooth finish then. I use their Cleaner then the Gold Class. You can also use their Scratch X then the paste

wax. Another good sealer/finish/paste wax is Simonize paste wax. There is no grit in it and it is pure paste wax. Don' know if they

still make it though. Its in a yellow tin with red Simonize on the side. Maybe you can find some in an old store etc. Good luck and

be careful when sanding and using the polish with grit in it.

[martinfan5]

Thanks for the help guys, how long do these micro mesh sheets/pads last?

Edited July 24, 2011 by martinfan5

[bigmikevee]

Hey Jonathan,

You have gotten really good answers from the gang so far, it just takes time to learn another new step, but the end results will be worth it. Pads will last for awhile, you will notice if not working, if you wet-sand (just dunk pads in water or sand under faucet) and use an easy touch, they will slowly level out paint job, agree with not going to the lower numbers unless you have a really bad finish to start with. Do be careful around raised areas, edges and script so you don't polish away all the paint. Just take your time. Also, Novus makes a 3-stage polishing kit that is just so easy to use and the results are fantastic. Use this after you have used the pads. Polishing takes time to master and time to do, but you will just not believe how good the results will be. I use flannel to polish, try Micro-Mark for flannel and other items you might need. Good luck, post some results for us.

Mike

[Jeff Johnston]

Thanks for the help guys, how long do these micro mesh sheets/pads last?

I find I have to replace mine every year or two. Its the lower grits that start wearing out. You'll be able to tell...for me when the 3200, 3600 and 4000 all start felling like the same grit, its time to replace them. In my experience the 6, 8 and 12,000 seem to last a really long time. I guess probably because by the time you get to 6000 its already sufficiently smooth.

As everyone else said, go slow and make sure its wet. Dry it off to check your progress...and to echo everyone else, be really careful on raise areas because it'll burn through in a flash. I find that using urethane 2 part clear helps to alleviate the risk of burning through the high areas, but not completely.

JJ

[diymirage]

im sure i'll get comment on this because i seem to get them everytime i mention this but i do 90% of my wetsanding in the shower, plenty of water, nice and warm and clean-ups a breeze

plus, it gives you something to do while yer in there

now, i do have one question to add to this, i've been hearing alot about "block sanding" a model

i understand how it works on 1:1 cars but what would you use on a 1/25 scale ?

if you would get a block to scale it would be impossible to hold so what is the trick and what material makes a good block?

[MrObsessive]

im sure i'll get comment on this because i seem to get them everytime i mention this but i do 90% of my wetsanding in the shower, plenty of water, nice and warm and clean-ups a breeze

plus, it gives you something to do while yer in there

now, i do have one question to add to this, i've been hearing alot about "block sanding" a model

i understand how it works on 1:1 cars but what would you use on a 1/25 scale ?

if you would get a block to scale it would be impossible to hold so what is the trick and what material makes a good block?

I'm not gonna comment on the first part of this quote!

You can use different sized balsa wood to suit a model. I use it all the time when I need to sharpen up contour lines in plastic. Also Detail Master sells a "foam block" to use with using their cloths. Some hobby shops sell it separately, while others may sell it as part of the polishing kit.

Here's a pic of using balsa wood that I cut small to hold a piece of sandpaper. This was for the '05 'Vette I was building a few years ago, and I wanted the fender creases to be a little sharper than what the kit offered. If I can hold that small piece of balsa wood with my big hands--------anyone can!

[Monte's Motors]

I find I have to replace mine every year or two. Its the lower grits that start wearing out. You'll be able to tell...for me when the 3200, 3600 and 4000 all start felling like the same grit, its time to replace them. In my experience the 6, 8 and 12,000 seem to last a really long time. I guess probably because by the time you get to 6000 its already sufficiently smooth.

As everyone else said, go slow and make sure its wet. Dry it off to check your progress...and to echo everyone else, be really careful on raise areas because it'll burn through in a flash. I find that using urethane 2 part clear helps to alleviate the risk of burning through the high areas, but not completely.

JJ

I agree.

AT LEAST 2 coats of clear is key.

[Junkman]

I agree.

AT LEAST 2 coats of clear is key.

You mean even on solid colours? I have never used clear on them. I'm careful with this polishing anyway, since I find often the model turns out being too artificially glossy. This may be nice with a custom, rod, or show car, but 'ordinary' cars really weren't that glossy. Smooth, yes, but not this wet-look gloss.

[niteowl7710]

I agree.

AT LEAST 2 coats of clear is key.

This is especially true of metallic colors, if you have a solid color, and the paint was pretty smooth the begin with you can usually run through the last 2-3 pads and polishing compound without any issues. This is also dependent on your paint type as well. Real automotive paint is a bit more hardy than hobby paint (especially the never drying Testors enamels). But once you start sanding a metallic color it all goes to heck (ask me how I know). As several people have mentioned a real Micro-Mesh kit comes with a soft foam block in the kit, but the other suggestions here are equally good. If you have access to soft foam the block is about 3/4" thick and the size of your palm (about 3" long by 2" wide). I like it because it's borderline spongy in texture so it doesn't get all funky when it gets wet, then you can just squeeze it out when your done and let it air dry. Same thing with the pads, don't "wring" them out, just shake off the excess water and drape them over the edge of something (I actually have clothesline running through my basement, so I hang it over that).

I've also had the same experiences with others as to length of "duty" you can get out of them. My 4800 sheet tends to go out first. Micro-Mark (the hobby tool store people) offer the individual sheets (and the whole kit come to think of it).

I use "The Treatment" Model Wax. It used to come in a 1oz jar, but for some reason they stopped making it that way, and now only offer it in single use "ketchup" packs or 5oz tubs. I never managed to make a significant dent in the 1oz jar, I imagine the 5oz tub I have will literally go bad before I can do much with it. I realize I'm probably overpaying for what amounts to cheap car wax, but I like it, and I've gotten good results, so therefore I shall cling to it

[Junkman]

something i've always wondered about with the polishing kits and the pads is cleaning them and the color that may get trapped in the pads or grit. when you wash them does the color rinse out of the pads?

Yes, it usually does.

[bigmikevee]

Hey Gang,

Good replies so far, Dave brought up some good questions too. Dave, the pads sand and level the finish, it has to get level before it will get the proper shine on it, from really really shiny to natural shine, to even a flat look, sand it first. If you polish, the polish we use in modeling will not take care of all the orange peel, it just doesn't "cut " deep enough, you will just get shiny orange peel. The pads will rinse up nicely, Micro-Mark has a nice set with 6 grits, I have used the same set on 6 or 7 cars so far, the key to the pads is first and foremost, a light touch, let them do the work, e-z does it, also, you have to keep them wet, what I do is sand over the sink, keep a bowl of water in sink, and dunk the pad every few seconds, when it stops dripping as you sand, dunk again, you will get a feel for it. Polish after sanding, and the shine will just be wonderful. If you want a flat finish, sand your color then dullcoat if you want. Oh, you can get the products in either pads or sheets, the pads are about 3/16" thick, with a layer on each side and foam in the middle, bend and handle better than the flat sheets, which are just basic sandpaper sheets. I tried both ways, pads just feel so much better and are easier to grip and control. Just my thought.

Another thing I have noticed is sometimes we think the clearcoat will cover up orange peel, if it is minor, is should turn out okay, but....if the orange-peel or any other blemish is in place when you clear, you will still see imperfections. But if you sand and level the paint surface with the pads, then clearcoat, you will see what I mean. How I got started with the pads is I took an old model I didn't care for and just did the roof, e-z access to hold, paint, sand and polish, tried techniques to see what happened, then I stripped it and painted it again. Just like spraying a spoon, but a bigger, flatter area to experiment with. Just tried over and over. Oh, first time you sand, try without the water for 30 second just so you can see how much paint you are removing, you would be surprised. And as already stated, don't always go to the lowest grit, you will learn which one to start with as you look at your finish, some need more leveling than others. Once you get the color coat level, don't worry about how shiny it is and don't polish it, just sand with pads. Make sure color coat is clean and dry, then do your clearcoat over it, whether shiny or flat, you will really notice how smooth it is. Then, if you want to get it even smoother, sand out the clearcoat, then polish the clearcoat out. I always finish with Novus 3 step polishing kit, great stuff. This will give you the shiniest finish you never thought you could get, just amazing!!

I hope this helps, I didn't really understand it at all until one weekend I just jumped in. I had the pads and the Novus for over a year but was afraid I would ruin something. Take your time, light touch, keep pads wet and you will just love your results.

Mike

Edited July 25, 2011 by bigmikevee