DumpyDan Posted December 9, 2011 Posted December 9, 2011 Wow, nice! You are the painten man, they all look great.
moparfarmer Posted December 9, 2011 Posted December 9, 2011 And here I thought you were some CRANKY old man who lived in a Lab-RAT-ory. Wow, you've got talent with the paint. Like the Willys and 32s best. What brand of clear do you use? Awsome work...........
Dr. Cranky Posted December 9, 2011 Author Posted December 9, 2011 I used Testors clear in a few of these, and DuPont clear in a few others! Thanks for he kind words!
Dr. Cranky Posted December 9, 2011 Author Posted December 9, 2011 Here we go, you knew I could not resist getting at least one of these suckers starter . . . Doctor Cranky's very own phantom gasser. BIGGEST STYRENE ADDICT driven, of course, by Doctor Cranky . . . you kind folks will let me know if it doesn't look right . . . The big A/GS decals on each side were old I think because they are a little pasty . . . I can always remove them and try something else.
rmvw guy Posted December 9, 2011 Posted December 9, 2011 Always love your graphics! The Willys is aw-sum. Nice work!
Dr. Cranky Posted December 9, 2011 Author Posted December 9, 2011 Tim, no, I am following Donn Yost's DVD recommendation to never clear my decals, in particular with these phantom racing subjects. There's really no reason too. He also says that with a little piece of Scotch tape the decals are easy to remove, so if you don't like something, it could be removed. I feel like Mr. Yost's DVDs are the best investment I've made for my modeling in recent years. And NO, he's not paying me to say that. They are just chockful of great information and amazing tips, not to mention the easy, laid-back style he uses as a teacher.
Dr. Cranky Posted December 9, 2011 Author Posted December 9, 2011 Case in point, with a balled up piece of Scotch tape, I removed the offending decals from the side and replaced them with another . . . The other wonderful tip that floored me was to buy (they are very expensive at 27-32 dollars) a .13 Rapidograph pen to darken up all my panels and grills with. I have to confess that all of this has made a child out of me once again! I haven't felt this young since my rejuvenation surgery performed by none other than EYEGORE's uncle: DR. OTTO VON UUGGLY!
crazyjim Posted December 9, 2011 Posted December 9, 2011 The old Rapidograph pens needed to have ink put in them. Are they the same now or is it just an expensive pen?
weasel Posted December 9, 2011 Posted December 9, 2011 LOL, I can feel it, that's how I know, or EYEGORE hits me over the head with it! thought perhaps when the paint screws up on one it becomes a Cranky!!
Dr. Cranky Posted December 9, 2011 Author Posted December 9, 2011 LOL, Weasel! Most of the time he is busy looking for new hydrants to make his own! Jim, I believe you can get cartridges for them, and I hope if that's the case that they are cheaper than the pens! What I like about them is that if you work with a moist piece of t-shirt and you go outside the line it cleans up like nothing happened.
heatride Posted December 9, 2011 Posted December 9, 2011 Tim, no, I am following Donn Yost's DVD recommendation to never clear my decals, in particular with these phantom racing subjects. There's really no reason too. He also says that with a little piece of Scotch tape the decals are easy to remove, so if you don't like something, it could be removed. I feel like Mr. Yost's DVDs are the best investment I've made for my modeling in recent years. And NO, he's not paying me to say that. They are just chockful of great information and amazing tips, not to mention the easy, laid-back style he uses as a teacher. Virgil I feel the same way about Donn's DVD's especially after being out of the Hobby so long . Great looking job on that gasser !
Dr. Cranky Posted December 9, 2011 Author Posted December 9, 2011 Thanks, Glenn. It took me a while to find all the right decals, although I just got the two sets of Vintage Racing Decals that SLIXX sells. They are perfect, but I had a few others I wanted to use first, including a bunch of John Mazmanian decals. Of course, I wanted to make up the name and well, you know Doctor Cranky had to be the driver. The other one is going to be all EYEGORES!
Dave Ambrose Posted December 9, 2011 Posted December 9, 2011 The old Rapidograph pens needed to have ink put in them. Are they the same now or is it just an expensive pen? Rapidographs haven't changed in years. They still need manual filling. You might need to go to an art supply store to get the right ink.
Dr. Cranky Posted December 9, 2011 Author Posted December 9, 2011 Dave, mine arrived in a little case with an ampule or a cartridge and I just screwed it in and the ink started flowing. I am assuming it can be re-charged again. I know a couple of stores in Miami, or I can always send it back to Dick Blick and have them recharge it for me. Dick Blicks an amazing and wonderful Art Supply Store. Harry P. is lucky to have it in his town.Dave, I remember using them in the 9th grade to trace over technical diagrams on cells . . . and then you can color the other side and end up with some very cool renderings.
Dr. Cranky Posted December 9, 2011 Author Posted December 9, 2011 I posted this over in the Enamels Win thread: Black paint job alert! I finally got my Chevelle in black, EXCEPT I made a dumb mistake and used Semi Gloss Black for the base instead of the regular Gloss Black. Well, I've learned to embrace happy accidents, and come to find out the Semi Gloss Black dried over night and I was able to sand and polish it to a smooth black coat, and then shot about 5-8 coats of clear, a little on the thin side . . . now I am looking at an onyx mirror on a model. But I have to confess here that I am a little nervous about such a beautiful, glossy paint job getting a single spec during it's 3-4 day curing . . . Donn, can you tell me where you got your metal cabinet, you know the one you use to gas out your paints? Thanks, buddy.
Dr. Cranky Posted December 9, 2011 Author Posted December 9, 2011 Thanks, Glenn. I hope get going on these as soon as I finish the two or three 41 Willyses I got in the works.
Dr. Cranky Posted December 9, 2011 Author Posted December 9, 2011 Tim, it's a .13, and here's a picture. I thought I had already posted it before, but here it is again:
weasel Posted December 9, 2011 Posted December 9, 2011 hey Doc....back when i was using enamel only, i would make box 'covers'* for the presh bodys to dry UNDER so not crud lands in the paint... even cut vents in the top and covered them w/cheesecloth, spray a little water inside the box to catch the errant bit, come back to it in a week[lolol] and it's dry and speck free!! *i use a stand built from 2X4 and coat hangar arms...for me, an old carb cleaner box, tape the flaps in the up position was perfect for me...but, any box will work...
Dr. Cranky Posted December 9, 2011 Author Posted December 9, 2011 Dick, that's a great tip, I will work on something like that. I was looking at metal cabinets are they are hard to find and or very expensive.
Dr. Cranky Posted December 9, 2011 Author Posted December 9, 2011 Tim, here's the exploded view. The tip of the .13 is almost hair thin!
Dr. Cranky Posted December 9, 2011 Author Posted December 9, 2011 (edited) Tim, here's the exploded view. The tip of the .13 is almost hair thin! Here's another one of a thicker one: the .35, but it give you an idea of how much thinner the tip is! Edited December 9, 2011 by Dr. Cranky
crazyjim Posted December 9, 2011 Posted December 9, 2011 Nothing against Dick Blick but you might want to check pricing at Misterart.com. I have found identical items cheaper there.
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