vintagedragfan Posted April 13, 2012 Author Share Posted April 13, 2012 yea guys, had alot goin on lately, you know how it goes, dont really have any progress pics, been foolin with the parachute a little, but I'm at the point where I need to try and make the body, or move on and use the kit body, gonna be a huge job to make it out of aluminum, especially not having any experience with it, I will try to get an update soon, thanks for checkin in on things! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TedsModeling Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 Jim and/or Jerry - I have a question on the oil distribution system. An engine detailing article in a scale model magazine (June 2000) stated that the Revell 1/16 kits had the oil system wrong. The author provided this diagram instead. I can't find anyting online for reference. How was the oil plumbed on this 1:1 engine? Thanks in advance. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerry clayton Posted April 16, 2012 Share Posted April 16, 2012 on the FED we ran an Aviaid oil pan and just a plate over the two oil ports at the rt rear corner of the block--we used a wet sump and NO FILTERS---later , on the funny car we ran filters because we got a sponsership from Lee Filters----and then the rear engine car we had a dry sump system with filters mounted directly on the back of the oil tank which fit behind the seat at an angle--- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerry clayton Posted April 22, 2012 Share Posted April 22, 2012 Ted--- as for the oil system diagram you posted---I believe that was probably an attempt to show the systems used on the 426 late model hemi---the pump was mounted external at the forward lower left corner of the engine and oil went forward to external filters and then back to the block--this was via an adapter that replaced the filter mount on the pump bottom--the two lines to the side of the block above the pan are probably a sorta copy of the three lines that attached to the 3 center main bearing cap cross bolts via hollow bolts that fed an extra amount of oil to the center main bearings--this was necessary because each of those mains fed two rods were as the front and rear main only fed one rod each-- Jerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbusch Posted April 22, 2012 Share Posted April 22, 2012 Jim and/or Jerry - I have a question on the oil distribution system. An engine detailing article in a scale model magazine (June 2000) stated that the Revell 1/16 kits had the oil system wrong. The author provided this diagram instead. I can't find anyting online for reference. How was the oil plumbed on this 1:1 engine? Thanks in advance. Uploaded with ImageShack.us I know this is off topic, but it looks to me (because of arrows) that they are taking oil out of the side of the block then thru pump, oil filters and then to pan. I am not an engine guy but are the arrows going in the wrong direction Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerry clayton Posted April 22, 2012 Share Posted April 22, 2012 the drawing is not correct--on the late model hemi(426) there was an adapter to allow dual inlets for the oil pump and one was an external line going to the sump--also, it had provisions for the remote filters and they fed oil to the three center mains via hollow bolts that allowed oil pressure thru the side of the main caps-- You can see some of these pieces online in Milodon cataloques or Moroso Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pharr7226 Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 made all the bolts out of plastic hex rod This build is simply amazing. Your fabrication skills are through the roof. Is there a trick to getting a straight cut with uniform thickness on the hex rod cuts? I've tried cutting hex rod with a #11 knife and I have a very difficult time getting a straight cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TedsModeling Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 Thanks for the explanation, Jerry. I found the picture below on Milodon. Is this what you described with the line to the sump? I found another Milodon pump on their site that looked more like what the kit has. It has two ports in the front and one in the rear, exactly like the part shown in the kit instruction detail below. I'm not trying to beat a dead horse here, but trying to get the correct info on oil plumbing for this Charger kit (as well as other period correct dragsters). The previous drawing, in the post above, was supposed to correct the kit instructions because the author felt the oil flow was going 2 directions at the same time. I'm assuming he's referring to the lines to/from the remote filters. Terry - I agree that the arrows seem to be reversed, if the plumbing is correct. I would think the pump would draw from the pan, not dump into the pan. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vintagedragfan Posted April 24, 2012 Author Share Posted April 24, 2012 This build is simply amazing. Your fabrication skills are through the roof. Is there a trick to getting a straight cut with uniform thickness on the hex rod cuts? I've tried cutting hex rod with a #11 knife and I have a very difficult time getting a straight cut. thanks Rick for the compliment! I used a miter box and put a stop in it so they would be some what uniform and I just used an exacto knife inthe slot of the miter box, you are right , that stuff doesn't want to cut straight for nothin,lol hope this helps Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerry clayton Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 that lower diagram is correct-- lines to/from remote filter and the feed and 3 lines for the center mains, and external sump line Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TedsModeling Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 Thanks, Jerry. GoatGuy Dave just posted lots of 1989 funny car photos in the 1:1 Reference forum. Two close ups show the routing between the remote filters and the pump to match the kit instructions. So much for the author's 'correction' drawing. Bill - MicroMark has a couple of tools made to hold stock with a means to cut the same length repeatedly. Check out #84388 and #84515. I use the latter. You can also find surgical blades on eBay that are the same size as a #11 xacto blade, except they're much sharper and a touch longer. Excellent work once again. I watch my email for notices of updates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vintagedragfan Posted April 25, 2012 Author Share Posted April 25, 2012 yea Ted I have seen all that cool stuff, been savin my pennies for a mill which finally came in yesterday, can't wait to get it home and set up, thanx buddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pharr7226 Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 (edited) thanks Rick for the compliment! I used a miter box and put a stop in it so they would be some what uniform and I just used an exacto knife inthe slot of the miter box, you are right , that stuff doesn't want to cut straight for nothin,lol hope this helps Rick Thanks. I always have to cut a little more than I need and sand it down to something remotely level, which is difficult to do with small pieces in 1:25 scale. Ted, I have the cutter from micromark and I have the same problem with it. Edited April 26, 2012 by pharr7226 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vintagedragfan Posted April 29, 2012 Author Share Posted April 29, 2012 don't have any updates on the car unfortunately, but I did get my new toy FINALLY!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iBorg Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 While I like my Sherlines, I'd really love to have your toys. Just don't know how I'd get that mill in my basement. When I die, my wife and kids would really curse me when they moved it out. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comp1839 Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 you'll appreciate the added weight and strength over a sherline when you go to do any kind of roughing in, bill. i think for the price, this is a big bang for the buck item. plus all of the adequetly sized vices, rotary tables and other accessories will bolt to your table. nice piece! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eviltwincustoms Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 Man, I bet it was just like Christmas when you brought that piece of equipment home. I don't think I would have any place to put anything that large in my house. Congrats on your new purchase! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostreet Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 Nice Mill, Is that a grizzly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vintagedragfan Posted April 30, 2012 Author Share Posted April 30, 2012 (edited) thanks fella's I am excited to get it finally, It was bout all I could do with a friend to get it up on the stand, some where close to 300lbs, whew! yea Mike I'm sure they would ! LOL Dave, I think you are right, bang for buck , it's hard to beat, came out of the crate pretty square with the world according to the test indicator yea Bart just like christmas! I made room for it!!! lol thanks man! thanks Joe, ya its a Grizzly now all I have to do is figure out how to use the thing! Edited May 22, 2012 by vintagedragfan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vintagedragfan Posted May 9, 2012 Author Share Posted May 9, 2012 finally got a little work done, I got the front axle all smoothed out and sprayed some chrome alclad on it, very happy with the way it turned out, all so when I started on this project and before I got the reference pics, the intructions said the rear end housing was to be painted dark grey metallic, an after Mr. Clayton was kind enough to hook us up with some reference photos it turns out the rear housing was chromed with a blue third member, so I re done the rear housing as well thanks for looking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Teresi Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Bill......very nice!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Romell R Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Bill looks like you were able to handle the labor strike ....How many of the little buggers did you have to fire to get em back to work?? LOL! seriously thats an outstanding job looking forward to more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gasser59 Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Looks great. What is the front axle made out of? Is it the from the kit or fabricated? Glad to see you're back at this and looking forward to seeing more updates. Keep 'em coming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vintagedragfan Posted May 9, 2012 Author Share Posted May 9, 2012 John, thank you sir !! yea Rom, between life kinda gettin in the way and being in a lil builders rutt, i think every ones been there a time or two, I finally made a little progress, thanks man! Brad, the ront axle is all brass, I took it apart to clean it up for paint, and was actually a few minutes from having it re assembled, the left knuckle was very stiff, when I worked it back and forth to try and free it up, the end broke off! so I had to re solder it and clean it up again, I was not a happy camper! seems to be ok now thanks for looking in ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerry clayton Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Bill---- stuff looks good , but a couple of comments---what is that I see in the rear center of the rear end???? And you will probably want to remove that brake line? across the top of the housing--- Remember that the driver sat behind that and his legs went over the top of the axle tubes--was really tight after we moved the rear back 5 inches at the same time we added the side wings----people only noticed the wings--didn't spoat that we had also lengthened the wheel base--- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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