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Airfix 1932 Chrysler Imperial


GeeBee

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Didn't get a chance to do anything in the hobby room today, but when I got in this afternoon, I decided to dry fit the body panels to see if things lined up, the bonnet will line up better once the radiator is fitted, tommorow I am going to be detailing the dash, so that can be fitted into place, then the body can be fixed in permanently .....

BodyChassis-vi.jpg

BodyDryFitted1-vi.jpg

BodyDryFitted4-vi.jpg

BodyDryFitted5-vi.jpg

BodyDryFitted6-vi.jpg

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got a little more done today, hopefully I will chance to fix the body on tomorrow, then the radiator and bonnet can go on, the boot is designed to open, but the hinge is very delicate, and the boot lid moves around too much, and it really didn't look realistic, plus there is no detail on the inside, so after I put some BMF on the rails, the two were fixed together with 5 minute clear epoxy glue ...

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Dashfinished-vi.jpg

Frontseatfluedtofloor-vi.jpg

Radiatorfixedtogether-vi.jpg

Windsheildframefittedontobody1-vi.jpg

%7Boption%7Dhttp://images15.fotki.com/v588/photos/3/1250073/10402391/Windsheildframefittedontobody3-vi.jpg[/img

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I tried a few ways to get the body fixed on, tried it without the interior fitted, it did fit well, but then it would have been impossible to fit the interior afterwards, I then came across into another problem, the top dash rail was slightly off centre, so the interior wouldn't go as far forward as it needed to be, luckily the dash rail came out without getting damaged, the two were taped together while the 5 minute epoxy cured, then the radiator was fixed into place, the bonnet isn't glued into place, and probably won't be, as there are some parts that need to be fixed to the inside of the bonnet,

It's now looking more like a car .....

Bodytapedtogether-vi.jpg

BodyChassisfixedtogether5-vi.jpg

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Yes, I like this build a LOT!!!!

Your choice of body colors is spot on, my friend--Chrysler (along with Auburn, and most other luxury car makers) had, by 1032, broken away from the old (first three decades or so of the US auto industry) traditional use of black paint on fenders, running boards and their related splash aprons (something that harkened back to horse-drawn buggy and carriage times BTW), instead using complimenting (and sometimes contrasting) darker shades of the body color itself.

A little note here (not in criticism, but something that does make front wheels look more realistically assembled to the model): All cars of that era, with solid (beam) front axles were designed with very visible camber to the front wheels when viewed in a straight line setting, from in front of the car (two makes of cars really show this, from that era: Bugatti's and Model A Fords) both having camber pronounced enough to give them almost a "bow-legged look). In addition, the axles themselves were raked back a their tops, which gave them considerable "caster", as both "camber" and "caster" (think of the back-leaning angle of any bicycle front fork here), which made the front wheels almost perfectly self-centering when the car is in motion, "camber" being used to make steering right or left much easier (critical back in the days before power steering, even variable ratio steering gears!). I want to say that most of those old beam front axle cars used about 4-perhaps 7 degrees of camber (with the top of the wheel being farther out from vertical than the bottom), which is noticeable.

Another paintwork feature of cars of that era was to paint the raised moldings (body reveals) in a color which compliments the main body color itself--remember, this was nearly a decade before chrome or stainless steel trim spears appeared on automobiles, particularly in the US. For the truly ambitious (and daring!) modeler, pin striping was almost universal in the auto industry at the time, further accenting those body reveals, and almost always applied exclusively to them--again, a way of trimming a body before chrome trim became the vogue.

On your Imperial, all the ones I've seen over the years have their thermostatically controlled radiator shutters painted, either in the body color or the fender color (and in some cases, body color with fender color as a trim shade, often just the center post of the shutters).

But, all that said, this is just one beautiful build you have going--can't wait to see it finished!

Art

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Thanks for the comments Art, the box are does show the area's you mention painted to complement the dark green on the fenders, I have seen a few photo's of them left as I have done them, so I really didn't know which was right, the decals supplied in the kit are to replicate pin striping, but they are way bast there best, and have cracked up, so there's no way I can use them.

This has been a trip down memory lane, as I built this kit way back when I was 15, when Airfix first released this kit over here, infact it was my first ever 1:25th scale kit, there has been a few problems with parts fit, etc, and I wonder how I ever got to finish way back then .... If I was to ever build this kit again, there are things I would do differently... but as it's took me 34 to get round to building it for a second time, I don't think I'll ever get round to it,

After a spot of lunch, I spent a little bit more time in the hobby room, apart from modifying the rear light and horns, and then doing them with Alclad, there's basically just the parts that I did in Alclad to fit, and she's finished !!!

000_0003-vi.jpg

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Are you going to paint the hardware on the interior door panels?

I would have love to pick out the detail on the inner door panels, it seems that the camera really picked out the detail, but in reality you can hardly feel it at all, and would have been near impossible to pick out using a brush, so rather than make a complete pig's ear out of it, I will leave it well alone.

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Got a little bit done today ....

The rear lights needed modifying, as they had no lens detail, and looking at the real thing, the lens actually goes flush with the lamp housing, so to make them look more prototypical, the lamps needed drilling out and grinding out, they can now be done in Alclad chrome, then I can mix up some clear resin and red food dye, this will be thinned out and put inside the lamp housing ....

Also the front horns really look right, as there supposed to be trumpets, and they certainly didn't look like they should be, there not very well molded, but again, they were drilled out, and a cone shaped grinding bit soon had them looking more like trumpets ...

The front and rear bumper were also fitted, I don't like to blow my own trumpet, but I do think my Alclading is getting better each time I do it ..

Horn on the left before modifying, one on the right after drilling & grinding

Horns-vi.jpg

Rear Lamps before being modified

Rearlightbeforemod-vi.jpg

Rear Lamps Drilled out and ground to shape

Rearlampsdrilledout-vi.jpg

Front Bumper Fitted

Frontbumperon-vi.jpg

Rear Bumper Fitted

Rearbumperon-vi.jpg

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A little more done before the day end's, got the hubcaps fitted onto the spare wheels and one side of the car, and even dry fitted one of the spares, I have the fixing brackets to paint before they can be fixed in permanently,

Sparewheelwithhubcapfitted-vi.jpg

psfittedandsparewheeldryfitted-vi.jpg

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So now all I can say is... beautiful! B)

Thanks Harry, it hasn't been an easy build, but I looked at it last night before I closed up the hobby room, and it did bring back a lot of memories of when I first built it 34 years ago ....

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Well, I reckon this will be finished this week, I managed to get all the small parts finished in Aclad this morning, the chrome trim on the side of the running boards were fixed on, I will leave the Alclad to dry out for a couple of days,, then they can all go on ..

Runningboardtrimfitted-vi.jpg

SmallPartsdonewithAlclad-vi.jpg

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Rightfenderpolished.jpg

Geoff,

I haven't found any polishing mops like the one in your photo that are intended to be used in Dremel tools. Were the mops that you use designed for hobby use or some other purpose, i.e., where am I likely to find something like that?

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Geoff,

I haven't found any polishing mops like the one in your photo that are intended to be used in Dremel tools. Were the mops that you use designed for hobby use or some other purpose, i.e., where am I likely to find something like that?

PM Sent !

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Well the parts done in Alclad chrome have been drying out for a few days, so i thought I would crack on and get this build finished, I've got all the chrome on the bonnet (Hood) finished, and got the red lenses done on the rear lights, after they were drilled out, they were done in Alclad, then I mixed up some 5 minute clear epoxy resin, thinned it with methylated spirits and added a few drops of red food dry, it was then dripped into the rear lamps and left to dry.

Bonnetfinished3.jpg

RearLights2.jpg

RearLights5.jpg

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