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Posted

H.A.K., thanks for the pics !!! That is without doubt my all time favorite truck, and you gave me a lot of detail shots I just couldn't find. Thanks again. Man, I love that thing.

Posted

H.A.K., thanks for the pics !!! That is without doubt my all time favorite truck, and you gave me a lot of detail shots I just couldn't find. Thanks again. Man, I love that thing.

Yeah man. N/P Wish I still had his # Id call him and have him call you and tell you all about it.

Posted

While the '40 Ford bed is more correct for the '38, I'm going to use the '37. I got the rear fenders roughed to fit it.

DSCN8326.jpg

I'm also going to work in the louvered hood sides from an early monogram '37 slantback sedan....

DSCN8313.jpg

...and modify the louvered hood top from the same kit. Much rework required, including lengthening and narrowing in the rear.

DSCN8296.jpg

Still closer in profile, with only the roof line needing to be raised to have all the proportions about right......

DSCN8350.jpg

More work on the front lower grille panel, hood line and headlight stanchions, which I cut off, swapped side-for-side, and relocated outboard.

DSCN8341.jpg

Posted



Deciding on a smallblock Chevy or a Dodge Red Ram....

Red Ram all the way... leave the SBC in the Camaro or box van it belongs in. :rolleyes: It WOULD be cool to mate the ZF to the Hemi, though.

Posted

Deciding on a smallblock Chevy or a Dodge Red Ram....

Red Ram all the way... leave the SBC in the Camaro or box van it belongs in. :rolleyes: It WOULD be cool to mate the ZF to the Hemi, though.

Great minds think alike Chuck.....Red Ram / ZF it will be. B)

  • 3 months later...
Posted (edited)

One of the things still needing major re-work is the height of the roof on the '38 cab. The '37 is much flatter and doesn't have as much "forehead". I'm trying out my new, improved epoxy / micro balloon filler on this one too, and so far it's love. It's a 5 -1-1.4 mix of West Epoxy resin 205 / 105 hardener / micro-balloon, by weight.

Though it takes an overnight cure, it sticks better and sands better than anything I've ever used on models, and I'm rarely in a hurry. It needs to be mixed on a gram scale to work consistently, but I usually use up what's left in the cup after doing fill work on 1:1 aviation parts. RC plane guys use the stuff to, as it's light and strong.

I've experimented with the ratio of micro to goo, and have it where it works great every time. It handles differently from other fillers, but so far, I really like the results.

DSCN9577_zps850378da.jpg

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
Posted

Looking good. Are you going to correct the mold lines down the side of the cab for the 38 look?

I too need to make a true 38 and was thinking of sanding off the 37 rib lines and adding 1/2 round styrene to make the three ribs. Not sure is the cab is thick enough.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

After raising the roofline to match the '38 cab, the windshield gets opened up...

DSCN9870_zps6fc1e16c.jpg

then the rear window gets chopped to look right with the new roofline and the opening is modified to fit it...

DSCN9856_zps9c7ccac6.jpg

...and the chopped window is installed in the cab rear.

DSCN9869_zpsc7445617.jpg

Posted (edited)

Looking good. Are you going to correct the mold lines down the side of the cab for the 38 look?

I too need to make a true 38 and was thinking of sanding off the 37 rib lines and adding 1/2 round styrene to make the three ribs. Not sure is the cab is thick enough.

Yes, it will be corrected but I'm sneaking up on it. The stepped reveal around the side windows will get filled first, and then I'll see just where the ribs have to go. I was thinking of the same thing you mentioned, but probably filling the cab sides before adding the 1/2 round. It's some fiddly work.

I really think the guy who built this 1:1 got it about perfect, proportion-wise. Not having the real one to measure has put me in the position of having to build what I think is right, photograph it and look a the results, and then modify things as necessary to dial it in. I've adjusted the top-chop 3 times so far. If I were to do this build again, I'd probably start with a '37 car cowl, firewall, doors, forward roof and windshield.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
  • 8 years later...
Posted

Hey Bill. I realize this thread hasn't been touched in 9 years, but you shared it the other dy in another post so i decided to check it out.

Great idea of using the Monogram 36 fenders to get the beefier look of the 38 truck fenders. 

I had heard that the 40 Ford pickup cab was a better starting point to make a 38. Any thoughts?

Posted
25 minutes ago, Mr. Metallic said:

...I had heard that the 40 Ford pickup cab was a better starting point to make a 38. Any thoughts?

That's a possibility, and I considered it, but because of the rarity of the old Revellogram '40 pickup on my shelves at the time, I opted to rework the '37 truck cab rather than cutting up something I wanted for something else.

There are a few other reasons I preferred starting with the '37, including some aspects of the firewall design.

Posted

 

2 minutes ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

That's a possibility, and I considered it, but because of the rarity of the old Revellogram '40 pickup on my shelves at the time, I opted to rework the '37 truck cab rather than cutting up something I wanted for something else.

There are a few other reasons I preferred starting with the '37, including some aspects of the firewall design.

Thank you very much for your response. I happen to have a few of the 40 cabs floating around, so I may go that route. Although, i do detest the opening doors on that cab so maybe the 37 would be better. 

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