cobra Posted October 14, 2007 Share Posted October 14, 2007 What is the best rattle can sealer to seal off red plastic when overcoating with lacquer paint? Want to paint it white. So far all I have is pink. TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted October 14, 2007 Share Posted October 14, 2007 TOM!! Glad to see ya here! You've seen the '55 T-bird I've brought to the meeting long ago? That was molded in that nasty red plastic, but it's now Thunderbird Blue. How'd I do it without the red bleeding through?..................Future Floor Wax! You can brush Future on but you'll need to let it dry thoroughly to avoid brush strokes................I airbrushed mine on and let it sit overnight. I put it directly on the bare plastic. I know of nothing in a spray can that can be a barrier...............maybe someone can chime in that may know. Years ago there was a barrier that the railroad guys used......but you had to be careful how you thinned it lest it etched the plastic also! Here's a pic for those who haven't seen the T-bird...................you'd never know it was molded in that terrible red plastic! BTW, Future is great for sealing the new soft plastic coming from China for those of us that want to use hotter automotive paints..............I've used it on several builds including the Magnum I'm working on. There's been no crazing of the plastic whatsoever! HTH! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LVZ2881 Posted October 14, 2007 Share Posted October 14, 2007 I havent had a problem yet using duplicolor primer sealer..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Patterson Posted October 14, 2007 Share Posted October 14, 2007 I've had good luck with Testors #1246 Silver. I've been able to paint lime green over red plastic, yellow over blue and covered body repair primer spots as well. I wouldn't use it under a hot automotive paint or Tamiya, but it seems to hold up to either Testors enamels or their new lacquers just fine. Also, it drys pretty quickly and scuffs without clogging the sandpaper too quickly, though I'd recommend wet sanding it for more involved body prep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted October 14, 2007 Share Posted October 14, 2007 My "secret weapon" Blocks red dye in plastic AND protects from hot laquer. I agree 100%.. I did the Firefighter Mustang kit...Awful red plasticfor the body. ZoomZoom told me to use this ..it works(yeh he wrote it up over there)It went on smooth and thins with alcohol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoom Zoom Posted October 14, 2007 Share Posted October 14, 2007 I agree 100%.. I did the Firefighter Mustang kit...Awful red plasticfor the body. ZoomZoom told me to use this ..it works(yeh he wrote it up over there)It went on smooth and thins with alcohol And I found out about it from Steve I do prefer spraying it through my airbrush, the spray can nozzle is pretty awful. Shame that one can't pop a Tamiya nozzle on the BIN. One thing I've noticed is that the Japanese kits molded color don't seem to bleed like vintage Monogram colored plastics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Obvious Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 I havent had a problem yet using duplicolor primer sealer..... I'll second that...this was a very vibrant red-orange plastic when I started...a couple coats of the Duplicolor sealer/primer and the Testors Lacquer Black, and all is good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruz Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 And I found out about it from Steve I do prefer spraying it through my airbrush, the spray can nozzle is pretty awful. Shame that one can't pop a Tamiya nozzle on the BIN. One thing I've noticed is that the Japanese kits molded color don't seem to bleed like vintage Monogram colored plastics. What do you thin it with Bob???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoom Zoom Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 What do you thin it with Bob???? Thin it with rubbing alcohol, I think denatured alcohol will also work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruz Posted October 16, 2007 Share Posted October 16, 2007 Thin it with rubbing alcohol, I think denatured alcohol will also work. Thanks. I tried it with Lacquer and this was not a very good idea, I will try it your way, thanks my friend.............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr moto Posted October 18, 2007 Share Posted October 18, 2007 I bought a can of BIN last night. Tonight I'll be finding out if it can protect the soft Revell plastic from automotive lacquer. Anyway, the story about it having a lousy nozzle is absolutely true. It looks like the hole is just too big. The good news is that Krylon nozzles (which I happen to have on hand) fit perfectly and solve the problem 100%. So if you have any Krylon around the house or use it to paint models like I do you can solve the spray nozzle problem easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruz Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 One thing ,, you should lay down a light coat of primer or any flat paint you have on hand for the BIN to stick to ,, it dosen't stick to bare plastic very well ,, I found this out the hard way. Hey Steve, good looking out man, I too learned this the hard way even after sanding down the plastic as I usually do............ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr moto Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 Last night I did some test painting with BIN and found out why it comes with that funny spray nozzle with a big hole. After a few sprays through a Krylon nozzle it clogs up completely. This wasn't a big problem because I had plenty of Krylon on hand and just popped a nozzle off another can and continued. The clogged nozzles cleaned up easily after soaking a few minutes in alcohol. But before I do any more BIN spraying I'll be sure to have extra nozzles and a small jar of alcohol handy. It does a great job of protecting sensetive plastics (recent Revell) from lacquer. I started with a primer coat of Mr. Surfacer 1200 (couldn't use my usual Krylon or Duplicolor primers) followed by BIN then put Duplicolor on top. Duplicolor would seriously etch the plastic before (even on top of Mr. Surfacer) but it worked perfectly with the bIN. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobra Posted October 24, 2007 Author Share Posted October 24, 2007 Just want to add my thanks for all the advice. The BIN did the job for sealing the red plastic just fine. Used it over Varsity white primer, which was the usual joy of white on white, but what the heck. No one said modeling was easy. Had the same clogging problems with the Krylon nozzles, but they clean out easy with a little lacquer thinner and compressed air. But the project is moving along okay and you guys are the greatest. Thanks Steve and Bill and Bob, et al. Couldn't get by without you all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.