Highlight , ,, Wash , Detail Question , HELP !

[CrazyGirl]

I am going to airbrush the shafts , but my Big question is I see a lot of you guys when you do the shafts that the joints have nice detail , like black highlight ,,, please tell me how you do that , Thanks

[Jantrix]

Just use some black or grey paint thinned down.

[Jantrix]

Thin enamels with a little thinner or acrylics with a little water.

[MAGNUM4342]

Skill sets are NOT constant. I know people who can paint the heck out of a car, can't do bodywork to save their lives! Some things come natural to a person while other things elude them. I see people on here all the time who can plumb a motor like nobody's business but have no clue how to lay a clean paint job and vice versa. It's no big deal.

Some folks are naturals at one part of a hobby aspect and yet fall completely flat in others. Without knowing someone personally for a few years it's impossible to know their strengths and weaknesses. Keep in mind please that this is a person who has for whatever reason jumped into the hobby with both feet and run with it. Just like anyone else she excels at some things and is clueless at others. That's just the way it is with anyone.

I've seen some great paintjobs, but lousy builds because while the person has a talent for painting, they did not know that with glue, less is more. It's not hard to understand if you take a moment to think about it. Maybe it's a machismo thing, where guys don't like a girl horning in on their turf. Maybe Anne's screenname should be Danica2, because she's getting a lot of the same "This is the boys playground!" response that Danica is on the circuit. You know what I've noticed though? She hasn't backed down, she hasn't left and she keeps showing up here raring to go and willing to learn. That type of sticktoitiveness should be revered, not reviled. I would have to suggest, that all the people who are obviously against her, simply leave it. Don't respond and don't even read her threads. There are plenty of folks here who are not threatened by her to answer any questions she might have. You're only raising your own blood pressure by getting worked up by these questions, which seem to pass relatively without acrimony when a guy asks them.

As for the question at hand- You would use a combination of washing, and dry brushing. First, the wash. On an area like the u-joints shown above, I paint the joint area with unthinned gloss black. Then I will dip my brush in the thinner and dab it to the joint gently until the black has washed off the raised surfaces but still fills the lower areas. I am basically "washing" the excess off with the thinner. Once I've torn down the excess black and it has dried I will take silver (or whatever color the part was originally painted) and dip my brush, then wipe it on a paper towel until it's nearly dry and use that to highlight the surrounding area, repeating until the look I want is achieved.

This is my own technique and like so many others I am not saying it is 100% correct, or that anyone else's is wrong. This is just the technique that works well for me.

Edited May 25, 2013 by MAGNUM4342

[Ridge Rider]

Well said, we should be positive to all questions and never forget none of us knew anything about this hobby when we started.

[W-409]

I have used The Detailer's Black Wash. It works great for me and with one bottle, you'll do many black washes! This fits for the interior, grilles, chassis or whatever you need to black wash. They do have it in different colors, too but all I have tried is black.

[MAGNUM4342]

I've never used any of those but I understand they are great products. I just stick with whatever I have on hand though. I can see where the colored ones would work great on a like colored body to get good door seam shadows and such.

[my80malibu]

Anne use whatever paint you have, thin it down to a very runny consistency. Flat black works well for those U-joints, for example brush some into the crevices let it flow, and you will see start to fill the voids it make take one or more applications, wipe away any excess with some of the thinner. When I do this, I like to use a laguer as a base, then an acrylic for a wash. Then if you dont like it you can just wash it away with some water, and start all over again.

[ScaleDale]

The topic is using washes, and this guy knows:

Also:

http://www.scalemodelguide.com/painting-weathering/weathering/paint-washes/

and

http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/models/tutorials/tips/wash.htm

Dale

[MAGNUM4342]

I have to agree with Gilbert. Acrylic washes over enamel or lacquer make for an easier time of it if you have to redo it. That way the thinner doesn't wash away the base color while you do it. Good point Gilbert!

Dale, thanks for posting those.

Edited May 25, 2013 by MAGNUM4342

[azers]

Also try the new modelmaster washes, they come in a stain and in a wash by themselves. And they do not need to be diluted.

[my80malibu]

I really Need to Highlight My Name Better. I am Gabriel, I happen to live in Gilbert. LOL

[MAGNUM4342]

DOH! Sorry bout that Gil...uh, Gabriel. IIRC, This is not the first time I made that mistake.

Edited May 25, 2013 by MAGNUM4342

[CrazyGirl]

thanks for the info guys ,,, as far as remarks from the peanut gallery , I am getting sick of this stuff,, I come here to have fun , learn , I do not come here for childish drama and it's taking the fun out of building , again , if you DO not like me or my posts , then stay away from my threads , I do not respond to your threads and for good reason , I do not like you , so leave me be so I can enjoy this forum and do something your Mother always had hoped you would do , Grow UP

[ScaleDale]

I have to agree with Gilbert. Acrylic washes over enamel or lacquer make for an easier time of it if you have to redo it. That way the thinner doesn't wash away the base color while you do it. Good point Gilbert!

Dale, thanks for posting those.

You are welcome. The guy in the video is an Admin over at Scale Model Addict. He doesn't do cars, but knows his airbrush and detailing stuff. He has a good presentation style that converts over from his SciFi/War Game stuff well. Goes by Dream Knight aka Chung Chow. Pardon me, Master Chung Chow.

Dale

[DanielG]

Anne, I am still learning to do a perfect paint job but when it comes to detail and crud then I am your man. PM me with any questions along those lines and I will be glad to help.

Sample:

[crazyjim]

I use The Detailer stuff, Anne. It's quick and easy. If there's a drawback to it, it's that that it dries to a semi-gloss. I usually put a dull coat over it after drying.

[Len Woodruff]

Also try the new modelmaster washes, they come in a stain and in a wash by themselves. And they do not need to be diluted.

I have not heard or seen these. How long have they been out? Are they on the Testors website?

[azers]

Yes they are on the testors website. There are five or six bottles to the stains including engine grime oil stain testors also has a wash i use for door seams and detailing which works great if wanted i can post the numbers.

[southpier]

..... detail and crud ......

any more shot of your work? fantastic

[Art Anderson]

To add a bit to this thread, often dissimilar metals or metal forming techniques of the same metal often present somewhat minor but noticeable color differences.

I'm not that conversant with Corvette IRS setups, but at the very least, the universal joints are made are steel forgings, which will be a bit different (often darker in color) than the tubular steel used for driveshafts or half-shafts. Also, often U-joints, certainly before the age of permanently lubricated ones, were generally left unpainted at the factory, to lessen the chances of flakes of dried paint working their way into the bushings, which would hasten their eventual failure--so those parts would be grey iron in appearance when new, but rusty after a couple of months on the road. The tubular half shafts, if steel, quite likely would be painted black--if aluminum, the half shafts would be somewhat brighter due to the extrusion process by which aluminum tubing is formed, with hard aluminum alloy cast U-joints, or perhaps even cast steel ones. In other words, some color variation before any highlighting can help those details stand out even more, yet be very realistic looking.

Art

[Swifster]

Thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread. It saved me from making another thread on the same topic. I'm going to you the Dodge L700 as a car transporter and want it to look new, but not too new. I'm going to try the flat black was technique to add some depth the the wheels and undercarriage.

[Danno]

Some very good info in this thread, despite the little flash of faux drama.

[sjordan2]

Hmmph. Anne, who initiated this thread a few months ago, seems to have disappeared, But the advantages of washes have been well covered on this forum. I'm surprised there isn't a devoted tutorial thread related to this. But this may help..

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=74940&page=1

[Modelbuilder Mark]

Anne is still on the forum, she posted to some other threads today. She very enthusiastically jumped into the hobby feet first. Even did a thread on a build up of her work area IIRC. Good luck to her.

I am not sure what the drama was about, but you just have to know/expect that some folks just like to rake the muck.