Lil BMF tip I learned

[mnwildpunk]

Maybe two tips I don't know.

When you know what you need to bmf. While it's still on the paper backing I have found laying it up againist the car press it into the detail you wish to bmf and that will give you the rough demension of what you need. Then cut it out with a lil extra as a safety margin and off you go. Once you have trimed the extra quickly place back on the backing paper to use somewhere else.

[slusher]

Thats not a bad ldea. l am going to try it...

[Blown03SVT]

Seems it would be alot faster than my masking tape/3x5 card method.

[crazyjim]

I just cut the BMF in 1/4" wide strips.

[Blown03SVT]

I just cut the BMF in 1/4" wide strips.

Most times that does work, but for something say like a 55 Chevy h/t the drastic curves and wide bands of chrome around the windows are tough to manipulate the foil around without crinkling or tearing.

[crazyjim]

I patch the 1/4" strips around. I have this thing about waste, you know. Can't even see the seams on BMF.

[Blown03SVT]

I know where the seams are so they stick out like a sore thumb to me. I usually try to hide my overlaps in the corners where it looks ike the trim would naturally meet. Of course this is probably one of many reasons why it takes me forever to finish a build

I have a thing about waste as well, which is why I template some awkward shapes to mitigate waste when trimming away. Straight trims I get close to the actual width and length with a machinist rule.

Edited June 6, 2013 by Blown03SVT

[Tom Geiger]

I can't agree with a few things here... namely returning BMF to the backing sheet to use again and cutting strips very thin in the name of lessening waste.

First, once the BMF has been off the backing sheet, consider it toast. Any BMF glue that has had contact with your fingers, the model or anything else no longer has it's adhesion properties. That includes when you are trying to position a piece of BMF over some model trim and you've positioned it, pulled it back up, positioned it again.. especially the two ends where you've touched it. Toast!

BMF is NOT expensive. FIgure if it's an $8 sheet and you get 2 models out of it that's good enough. It doesn't last forever either, so I'd rather start an important project with a fresh sheet and not something I've been scrounging off of for a few years. Resign yourself to the fact that you are going to have a 50% waste factor. It's like installing wall to wall carpet. There will be BMF in the trash.

Personally I cut BMF about three times as wide as I need it. I don't attempt to use the straight edge as one side of the trim. I also cut it much longer than I need. That's the length on either end where you have touched the glue. That needs to be cut off as waste. Now take that wide and long piece and position it ONCE over the model trim. The extra length and width are so you aren't trying to get it down in an exact spot. Just pop it down and as long as your trim is covered, then burnish it down and cut off the excess from all four sides. And put that excess in the trash. It's not reusable. If you have a piece on the model and you don't like it, tear it back off and use a new piece to try again.

Honestly, in my experience, every person who has had an issue with BMF, especially it not sticking or coming off, goes back to the above basics.

[PappyD340]

Great advice Tom!

[zenrat]

Too right Tom.

Putting it back onto the paper is as bad as scraping excess glue back into the tube.

[Hrsbaby]

Exactly Tom ,and also I clear the the trim with a mix consistency like water ,let it dry usually 20 min ,I use two part urethane clear ,spray it right and no polishing yaaay then cut the in 1/4 strip long way ,depending on the model some have ,one piece moldings so a large piece covers I cut thru door trim so the shadow is apparent but at first I hated foil now I'm not bad ,no pro but no rookie lol

[Bonekrosha]

I just started using BMF and surprisingly for me, it turned out relatively easy.

Do you guys clear coat your BMF?

[Tom Geiger]

I just started using BMF and surprisingly for me, it turned out relatively easy.

Do you guys clear coat your BMF?

I too find BMF to be fairly easy. Others don't. I guess it's just in our skill set. I never clear coat my BMF, using the techniques I described above it won't be coming off (the main reason guys cite to clear it). I have models I did over 20 years ago with no issues. I think that when you clear it, the model body and the BMF have now taken on the same level of shine, you are looking at the clear paint, not the unique shine / texture of the BMF that makes the model pop and look real.

[Pat Minarick]

I know where the seams are so they stick out like a sore thumb to me. I usually try to hide my overlaps in the corners where it looks ike the trim would naturally meet. Of course this is probably one of many reasons why it takes me forever to finish a build

I have a thing about waste as well, which is why I template some awkward shapes to mitigate waste when trimming away. Straight trims I get close to the actual width and length with a machinist rule.

I found that if you have to have a seam that might show ,rip it with your finger at the seam .When you over lap the two piece it almost disappears when you burnish it down. When you cut it ,it bends it and make a hard edge that will show more .

Edited August 14, 2013 by Road Runner 79

[Skip]

I found that if you have to have a seam that might show ,rip it with your finger at the seam .When you over lap the two piece it almost disappears when you burnish it down. When you cut it ,it bends it and make a hard edge that will show more .

Pat, the ripping at an uneven overlap is an old Gilder's trick used with gold leaf, can't see why it wouldn't transfer it's use to BMF.

I burnish BMF with a Q-tip, cotton makeup applicator/remover pads and or just plain old cotton balls. Don't be afraid to really work the edges with a heavy hand, seems to get the foil down into the crevices. It is nearly impossible to burn through BMF like you can with leafing foils, BMF is thick compared to that stuff!

[Pat Minarick]

Pat, the ripping at an uneven overlap is an old Gilder's trick used with gold leaf, can't see why it wouldn't transfer it's use to BMF.

I burnish BMF with a Q-tip, cotton makeup applicator/remover pads and or just plain old cotton balls. Don't be afraid to really work the edges with a heavy hand, seems to get the foil down into the crevices. It is nearly impossible to burn through BMF like you can with leafing foils, BMF is thick compared to that stuff!

I use a Q-tip too ,but I use the ones with the paper type stick and cut it at an angle to get it down around the trim and little details .It is hard to rub through BMF.