Rick Posted August 17, 2013 Posted August 17, 2013 Hi everyone! When it comes to contests, you have a nice car but it has those giant toy like Revell hood hinges, is it better to just go with it or fill in those giant holes in the firewall and just set the hood on there with no hinges? Thinking of entering a local contest, (it'll be my first) and not sure which way to go on this.... Thank you for your answers, Rick
Russell C Posted August 17, 2013 Posted August 17, 2013 The ultimate perfect scale model would be one that could be magically brought up to full actual size and be indistinguishable from a genuine vehicle. So, my vote would favor the model with a filled-in firewall even if the hood now was a hingeless mass of sheet metal. You'd at least be a step ahead of your competitors on that particular detal, with the next goal of figuring out a way to make functioning hinges closer to scale size. Other simpler little details might call for attention before something more elaborate. For example, hollow out flat areas where clear color taillight and fron turn signal lenses are glued on and cover those areas with adhesive-backed chrome mylar sticker material so that the lights come alive with depth.
Guest Posted August 17, 2013 Posted August 17, 2013 I've been contemplating the same thing Rick. I only attend one show a year if that (missed it this year). But like you, I don't like the giant holes in the firewall either. I'm thinking on my next build that I'll fill those holes in. It will have to look better. When I show a model, I always take the hood off. So, the hinges serve no purpose IMO.
Dr. Cranky Posted August 17, 2013 Posted August 17, 2013 Rick, you are bringing up a good point. It's the reason why many of us go through great lengths to removed imperfections and the other stuff that would render a model into looking like a toy.
Harry P. Posted August 17, 2013 Posted August 17, 2013 The basic idea (especially in factory stock or replica classes) is to make the model look as much like the real car as possible. If the real car doesn't have giant holes in the firewall, your model shouldn't, either.
Steven Zimmerman Posted August 17, 2013 Posted August 17, 2013 Most of my builds aren't stock; so I build wire hinges and have a hood that tilts toward the front. One other trick I do, is to 'bury' small magnets in the top of the firewall and the radiator supports, and embed small pieces of wire in corresponding grooves in the hood, so it stays shut when you want it to.
Danno Posted August 17, 2013 Posted August 17, 2013 The basic idea (especially in factory stock or replica classes) is to make the model look as much like the real car as possible. If the real car doesn't have giant holes in the firewall, your model shouldn't, either. Excellent answer, Harry. The judges at critically-judged contests do look at things like this . . . big firewall holes or slots, injection pin scars under hoods, and one of the most flagrant yet most common hood-sins of all ~ Unpainted hood undersides. And, by the way, extra gold stars for Rick's forehead! This seems to be the only time "a quick question about contest judging" is actually that. {Usually, the 'quick questions about contest judging' set of pages and pages of spirited arguments.} This one actually starts out with a solid consensus.
Eshaver Posted August 17, 2013 Posted August 17, 2013 The basic idea (especially in factory stock or replica classes) is to make the model look as much like the real car as possible. If the real car doesn't have giant holes in the firewall, your model shouldn't, either. Harry brings up a great point , especially in ANY I P M S contest . Yeah, I'm constantly "Downing " da Propeller heads . Still, when you enter an event like this .look for every conceivable flaw you can . Heck the airplane guys think were no place anyway .......................
Rick Posted August 17, 2013 Author Posted August 17, 2013 Thank you all for the answers! I just didn't want to lose points or be considered incomplete by leaving the hood hinges off. Back to my build! Thanks again, Rick
clovis Posted August 21, 2013 Posted August 21, 2013 We ran into the same question building a Mustang for my daughter's 4-H project. The hood hinges were ginormous, so we left them off, and for our model, a prop rod worked fine.
Rick Posted October 25, 2013 Author Posted October 25, 2013 Quick update, I was able to use many of your suggestions, and took home the award for best paint!! Thanks for your help! Rick
charlie8575 Posted October 25, 2013 Posted October 25, 2013 Congratulations on your win. It does look good, I must agree. Charlie Larkin
checkmate Posted October 26, 2013 Posted October 26, 2013 Great result, congrats on the award. I've judged quite a few times over the years and the things that still catch most people out are the basics, mould lines, seams and glue marks.
Rick Posted October 26, 2013 Author Posted October 26, 2013 Thanks guys! That is by far the best model I've ever built!
ZTony8 Posted October 28, 2013 Posted October 28, 2013 Outside of Box Stock(or Out of Box) class,the field's open.Change things if you desire.You certainly wouldn't get knocked down for the changes unless they were done badly.
Shardik Posted November 1, 2013 Posted November 1, 2013 Congratulations on the win, Rick. Looks like it was well deserved. My first time out I only garnered a 2nd place in the custom class. At that same contest, I interviewed a couple judges regarding what they look for. Top of the list was the basics: Do all for wheels touch the ground? Are all molding imperfections removed (flash, parting lines, ejector marks etc..)? Are there any glue marks? Is the paint smooth with an appropriate finish (ie.: miles deep clear coat on a stock car doesn't fit) Then they got into more specifics: Is the model logically consistent? This was pointed out in reference to a weathered old tow truck with a sparkling clean engine. Are visible panel edges of scale thickness? From there you get into issues specific to the particular class entered; factory stock is clearly very demanding. I realize this is after the fact for you, Rick, but maybe someone else will find it useful.
deja-view Posted November 3, 2013 Posted November 3, 2013 (edited) Hood hinges, huh? I've placed first in a lot of competitions over the years, and I don't recall ever having the hood hinges questioned. In fact, as a judge in a few I never really gave the hinges much thought unless replica ones were actually built and used, which was a big plus. The fact that there were seldom realistic hinges available, and not even in the aftermarket until fairly recently (Detail Master 1/24), made that a "given" inaccuracy that everyone accepted. If they are easily constructed from aftermarket sets, then they should be considered a plus like all the other detailing and PE stuff available. But what about "box stock" or even "box stock plus" categories" Filling in the firewall and having nothing would not be acceptable I don't think, and in more detailed classes a blank firewall with no hinges wouldn't be any more "accurate" than what the kit came with. IMO that's just one of those "no points off" for leaving them alone, but "+ points" if someone really can find the realistic solution to the kit's failure to address it. Edited November 3, 2013 by deja-view
Danno Posted November 3, 2013 Posted November 3, 2013 Big holes in the firewall are clearly not consistent with accurate replication of a 1:1 vehicle that has no big holes or slots. Even in "Out of the Box" classes, big gaps or holes or slots in the firewall or anywhere else are bad, bad, bad. Just helped judge an IPMS model car contest yesterday and the list of craftsmanship errors that caused models to beat themselves out of contention were pronounced, and quite typical: 1) Visible trademark and/or parts number engraving, ejector pin marks, mold parting lines/molding seams, sprue nubs or attachment points. 2) Glue goobers or smears. 3) Poor paint finishes: orange peel, grit under paint, bubbled clear coats, dull color coats, cutting or sanding gouges visible under paint, overspray, bleeding or fuzzy paint separation, bare plastic showing (especially undersides of interiors or fenders where not concealed by the chassis ~ think driveshaft tunnel). 4) Wheels/tires attached at cockeyed angles (not aligned), all tires not touching table, mold lines down the centers of tires, wheels/tires too large to rotate or turn (fronts) within fenders. 5) Poor fitment of windows and windshields, including big gaps between glass and body. 6) Sloppy decaling (silvering, decals spanning panel lines, chrome trim, or door openings that were not trimmed to accommodate 1:1 operation of doors, trunks, etc.). It was amazing how many winners (and their ranking) were decided by basic craftsmanship issues, not expert execution of advanced techniques! Many models with killer-gotcha paintjobs were beaten out because the models had major craftsmanship faux pas while the more "ordinary" paintjobs were flawlessly executed on models exhibiting clean, careful craftsmanship. Not once did photoetch or exotic aftermarket stuff boost a model over clean building. Food for thought.
Tom Geiger Posted November 4, 2013 Posted November 4, 2013 Very good observations Dan. People should print it and tack it up over their work bench.
Rick Posted November 4, 2013 Author Posted November 4, 2013 Thanks again for all the tips and comments! I guess my big concern wasn't the actual leaving the hinges off, but by filling the firewall I was afraid of not being "Box Stock". It turned out there wasn't even a box stock category! It was a good learning experience, and I met a few other modelers in the process, and I think that is more important than an award any day. Rick
zenrat Posted November 5, 2013 Posted November 5, 2013 ...the list of craftsmanship errors that caused models to beat themselves out of contention were pronounced, and quite typical: 1) Visible trademark and/or parts number engraving, ejector pin marks, mold parting lines/molding seams, sprue nubs or attachment points. 2) Glue goobers or smears. 3) Poor paint finishes: orange peel, grit under paint, bubbled clear coats, dull color coats, cutting or sanding gouges visible under paint, overspray, bleeding or fuzzy paint separation, bare plastic showing (especially undersides of interiors or fenders where not concealed by the chassis ~ think driveshaft tunnel). 4) Wheels/tires attached at cockeyed angles (not aligned), all tires not touching table, mold lines down the centers of tires, wheels/tires too large to rotate or turn (fronts) within fenders. 5) Poor fitment of windows and windshields, including big gaps between glass and body. 6) Sloppy decaling (silvering, decals spanning panel lines, chrome trim, or door openings that were not trimmed to accommodate 1:1 operation of doors, trunks, etc.). Apart from the last part of #4 (sometimes you've just got to go with the wheels that look best) and the occasional deliberate leaving of the moulded in date I wouldn't enter a build in a show if it had anything on that list. Mind you, re #6, i've seen builds on the centerfold of the other model mag with decals spanning the door gaps.
Danno Posted November 5, 2013 Posted November 5, 2013 Mind you, re #6, i've seen builds on the centerfold of the other model mag with decals spanning the door gaps. Yes, I have also, Fred. Always a hoot, isn't it? "Really? That's the best model you guys could find to put in your centerfold?" A little like Playboy featuring Roseanne Barr/Arnold in the centerfold. Wasted paper; wasted issue.
KevinMoparFord Posted November 5, 2013 Posted November 5, 2013 Thanks again for all the tips and comments! I guess my big concern wasn't the actual leaving the hinges off, but by filling the firewall I was afraid of not being "Box Stock". It turned out there wasn't even a box stock category! It was a good learning experience, and I met a few other modelers in the process, and I think that is more important than an award any day. Rick You got the part right about what was important and the award is not it. Having fun, meeting people, learning some new tricks are the reasons you should go to any show, judged or not. Same issues with 1:1 cars, I always tell people that are upset at shows I judge that if you spent all that time and money just to win a $10 trophy, you got into the wrong hobby. Same goes with model cars. Remeber it is a hobby first! Or should be.
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