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'35 Auburn Boattail


Jeepgirl

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So, the news is out. I have begun my first non-Jeep build, and its an ambitious build at that. :wacko: I chose the Lindberg Auburn Speedster kit. Right out of the box, there was a ton of flash, nearly all the non body parts are chrome and the fenders were full of dips and ridges. :( This is my first non-unibody (I think that's what its called) I started out test fitting pieces, for a mockup, and immediately the two halves of the boattail don't want to line up correctly. I managed to get everything together for the mockup, and started looking at ideas. Via our magical car history image database (a.k.a. google). I promptly cleaned up the drool spill, and went to work.

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Here is the box art.

I glued the boattail halves together, as close to lined up as I could. (it was still going to need a lot of work to get it to look right), and then got all the body pieces out to primer. (after a thorough cleaning and drying of course)

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Here is the mock up.

After primer I started filler work on the boattail, and started sanding the fenders so I could really see how bad they were. They were BAD! I had a few low spots that required patch work, so I got started on that last night. :angry:

I also decided that I wanted to lose the bumper mounts, so those were trimmed and sanded down, as well as the ridge lines on the side walls of the engine housing. Sanded smooth now, I am trying to decide if I am going to back fill the vents, or leave them open. I am thinking filling smooth is the way to go.

Everything got another coat of primer last night, right before bed. (we all prime parts in our pajamas don't we?). I should have gotten more pictures of the sanding and trimming process. My plans at the moment are to go home and do more sanding on the body today, as well as beginning the chrome removal process on the plated sprues. I will try to remember to get more pictures as I go along. :D

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Looking great so far. As you probably know, the tooling for this kit started out many many years ago as a Pyro kit, and it's simple compared with today's offerings, as well as being wavy, plagued with sink-marks, and very light on detail. Still, it can make a beautiful model with care and patience.

Have you seen James Hetfield's custom (fiberglass replica-based) '36 Auburn "Slow Burn"? If not, it's really worth taking a look. http://vintagecolorstudio.com/gallery/1936-auburn-boat-tail-speedster

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Looking great so far. As you probably know, the tooling for this kit started out many many years ago as a Pyro kit, and it's simple compared with today's offerings, as well as being wavy, plagued with sink-marks, and very light on detail. Still, it can make a beautiful model with care and patience.

Have you seen James Hetfield's custom (fiberglass replica-based) '36 Auburn "Slow Burn"? If not, it's really worth taking a look. http://vintagecolorstudio.com/gallery/1936-auburn-boat-tail-speedster

Ah yes, the initial cause of my drool spill in the workspace. "Slow Burn" is the Auburn that I am using as my "Mona Lisa" So to speak, clean lines, immaculate finish (well at least under the show lights, and camera lens, there are flaws in everything its what makes us each unique). I have lots, and lots, and lots of sanding to do... Aside from how tastefully simple his Auburn is, I love the color of the paint, and as much as I want this build to stand out on its own, I would love to mimic the paint color in some way. :wub:

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I have one of these kits so I will be following progress on it. The Auburn has such beautiful lines and voluptuous front fenders, I can't help but wonder (after seeing your mockup) if Pyro/Lindberg fudged a bit here and there when designing the molds for this kit.

There are some aspects of it that just seem a bit "off", I haven't pinned it down yet but I want to before I consider starting on this kit in the future.

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I have this same kit, (and the same drool marks on my keyboard). I haven't realy checked it out that closely yet, but after seeing yours in mockup, I think I need to take a closer look. The grille on your example looks absolutely vertical, whereas on the 1:1 there is a distinct rearward slant to the grille shell.

Your inspiration, Slow Burn, is indeed beautiful, but I'll be going more traditional with mine. I want to replicate Marlene Dietrich's car, which, as far as I can determine, is identical to the one on the box.

Good luck, have fun, and don't get too much primer on your jammies.

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More progress tonight, pulled all those freshly primed parts from the paint booth. Re-did the mock up, I am really liking the way the body lines flow without the bumper mounts, it looks much cleaner.

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During the mock up, I decided that I didnt like the broken look between the running boards and the fender lines, in this kit the fenders ride above the running boards and it makes the body ride higher, which I didnt like. So out came the pin vise with a spiral scroll saw blade mounted in it, I trimmed the overlap off the running boards. Worked up some milliput and worked the pieces together. post-12661-0-07466300-1383884050_thumb.j

I also decided after sanding off the ridge lines on the side panels of the engine housing, that the vents did indeed need to be filled. So the extra milliput got put to use there. Now I am waiting for things to dry while the chrome sprues soak in some clorox, and I watch the ducks game...too bad they're losing.

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I have a Pyro issue from what appears to be the original 1955 run of this kit. Even as a new kit, it needed...help.

The molds haven't aged well and it's a challenge, but you seem to be off to a good start.

Work slowly, consider your next move carefully, and never lose sight of the end goal of quality workmanship and something you'll enjoy seeing on the shelf.

Charlie Larkin

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Really great start. l would have got the monogram kit...

please show me a monogram version of the Auburn kit, I might be interested in it.

I don't think Monogram ever did this one; I don't ever remember seeing one mentioned. Too bad, if it's like their other Classics, it would be a really nice kit, I'll bet.

Charlie Larkin

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Got started late tonight, after work I stopped in at the LHS. Found some treasures.

Tonight consisted of a LOT of sanding. I was struggling to get the milliput to sand out smooth, not sure if I ended up with air bubbles trapped during the filling process or what exactly was going on. It will need a bit more filler most likely, before it straightens out.post-12661-0-94117400-1383984920_thumb.j

In other news, I found the paint color.post-12661-0-85290300-1383984946_thumb.j

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Been slow going recently, I will be starting a new job shortly and so getting things squared away with the old job and preparing for the new one has taken me away from the Auburn. Perhaps I should call it "slower burn" I did manage to get the first coat of paint on, and sanded. I had some minor reactions from using an enamel based primer, but the crackling was minimal and I was able to get it all sanded out, so hopefully I won't have any more issues with the next paint layer going on smoothly.

I also made up the wood dash. I made a run out to woodcraft (I needed some x-mas gifts, and a new set of drillbits for the pin vice) and found a nice micro grained piece of mahogany. I was able to cut it down yesterday and get it sanded to fit. It fits much better than the stock chrome dash, which had almost an 1/8'' on either side. Now I just have to get the bezels and dial decals ordered.

Progress however slow, is still progress.

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Good looking progress. And just a thought...I've tried about all of the fillers on the market, and in my experience, it's hard to beat the Bondo brand "Professional" 2-part glazing and spot putty. It's some of the finest-grained putty around, which makes it very good at filling fine imperfections. Because it's a catalyzed product, you can put it on thick and it will cure all-the-way-through without cracking or shrinking. It has a very good working window before it kicks (if mixed properly), it adheres exceptionally well to 180-grit sanded styrene, it's ready to sand in 20 minutes or less, and it sands and shapes very well (it powders nicely and isn't as hard as epoxy based fillers). It also comes in modeler-friendly sized packages, which none of the other "professional", real bodyshop products do. I used to swear by USC Icing for model work (and full-scale work), but the Bondo product is the best I've ever used for models .

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Ace-Garageguy is correct (as usual): Bondo Professional glazing and spot putty is good stuff and also what I use. A tube lasts me a long time - I use as little as possible to avoid sanding dust and effort. You can affect curing time by how much catalyst you add. The mixed putty will slightly self-level after application. It will clog sandpaper if you hit it before its completely cured. Cured errant small bits often can be knocked off with a fingernail. Cured putty has almost no flexibility. You will need to use CA glue if gluing cured putty. Hope this helps.

Edited by GerN
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thanks for all the tips on the filler. I will be looking into alternatives before I start my next build, I've managed to get myself good and frustrated with the milliput since starting this one out, I really hope it doesn't become the end all to this paint job. I was going for flawless, and I have been having issues with the milliput and lacquer paint reacting strangely. Like it doesn't want to stick, its been lifting on the edges and causing the milliput to stick out like a sore thumb.

I also ran out of paint, from the little can...so I need to hit up the LHS on my way home from work today. It has been requested by the other builder in the house that I pick up a couple, as she also wants to try it out on a build. Its an awesome color.

I got the gauges and bezels ordered on Monday, and the seat painted vintage white last night. Should be a good ending, so long as the paint job doesn't kill me. lol

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