6bblbird Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 (edited) This is my first build of the new Revell '70 Hemi 'cuda kit. I wanted to build it stock but not showroom stock so I decided to build it as a class legal NHRA Stocker circa 1980s. I start with the interior. First thing is to build a roll bar as required by the rules. I used Revell '69 Charger parts for the main hoop. I added the side bars and rear bars along with a bar behind the driver. WF Edited January 22, 2014 by 6bblbird Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6bblbird Posted January 22, 2014 Author Share Posted January 22, 2014 (edited) Instument panel decals are pretty nice. Roll bar fit is pretty good. You can see the Moroso style, cable drive tach that I built along with the gauge panel in front of the radio. The roll bar padding is shrink tube. The slits face upwards where they won't be seen. WF Edited January 22, 2014 by 6bblbird Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skypower Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 I like what you got going there, very nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6bblbird Posted January 22, 2014 Author Share Posted January 22, 2014 Here's another look at the tach. The cable is made from guitar string. WF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraman Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 Lookin' good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZ Boy Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 Nice job so far, Walter. With your background, I'm sure this will conform to all the class rules! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reig3 Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 Hey Walter, nice start. Swervin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stump Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 That's a nice start Walter. The cage looks right at home in there. Nice touch on the Tach too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6bblbird Posted January 22, 2014 Author Share Posted January 22, 2014 (edited) Nice job so far, Walter. With your background, I'm sure this will conform to all the class rules! Yep! One thing that most everyone neglects when building a drag car is the driveshaft loop! Gotta have one if you are running slicks (most cars). Real easy to make. Just slice off a piece of 5/16" tubing and add some flat stock. Paint red and add a couple of photo etch bolt heads ( I didn't add the bolts yet ), in the above photo you can see the deep transmission pan. I lost the kit part and scrounged this one from a Polar Lights Funny Car. We always ran deep pans on our Torqueflites. No worries about not having a pan for the F/C as the trans will be wrapped in a blanket. The headers came from a Revell '69 Charger. They fit perfectly! I added aluminum tubing for the collectors. I have to touch-up the paint on the headers. I painted them with Alclad but when I applied a wash, it washed the Alclad away. Might hit the bare spots with some rust. WF Edited January 22, 2014 by 6bblbird Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6bblbird Posted January 22, 2014 Author Share Posted January 22, 2014 (edited) I also lost the differential cover! I'm sure that the trans pan and cover will show up some day. I had a couple of chromed Dana 60 covers in stock so no problem. Notice that I used red oxide primer on the floor pan. Some builders use grey primer but my 1:1 '69 road runner has red oxide primer that is very noticeable in the trans tunnel so I went with that. I removed the fuel tank with the back of a x-acto blade simply because it makes it easier to paint. Champagne Gold make a reasonable bare steel color. Five point harness that nearly cost my my eyesight and patience is in place along with the Hurst Quarter Stick. Good look at the cable drive tach. WF Edited January 22, 2014 by 6bblbird Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6bblbird Posted January 22, 2014 Author Share Posted January 22, 2014 A somewhat blurry pic of the master cylinder with brake lines, the tach cable, and the wiper motor with blob of red oxide primer on it. Wiper motors were required to be in place on Stock Eliminator cars. The power brake booster was not required, so I converted to manual brakes for weight savings. WF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skypower Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 Love this build, with all its detail. Thanks for the schooling, I'm a newb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim boyd Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 Walter...that is looking super sharp so far! TIM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george 53 Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 It looks GREAT! VERY nice,so far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6bblbird Posted January 22, 2014 Author Share Posted January 22, 2014 Thanks guys. With holidays and snow days I am getting quite a bit done. Chassis is almost complete. I need to install a battery and fire it up! Testor's Diamond Dust lacquer makes for a pretty convincing paint for the shaker scoop, grille, and "fish gill" rocker panel mouldings. WF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldscool Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 I like this one a lot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slusher Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Looks great so far... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
futurattraction Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 That's looking fantastic, so far, Walter! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6bblbird Posted January 23, 2014 Author Share Posted January 23, 2014 Got the body on the chassis. That was a bit of a wrestling match. It was very difficult getting the chassis pan to clear the quarter panels. Gonna be scary once the body is painted getting it back on again. Next time I might trim the chassis behind the wheel openings. The wheel opening mouldings on this car are ridiculously wide. After looking at them for a while I decided to sand them off. Rear wheel tubs have very little room for big tires. I used some skinny slicks on this oneand they barely fit. If you plan on building a Super Stocker or Pro Stocker you are going to have to move the springs inboard and modify the wheel tubs. Just like the real thing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 That's looking really good so far. It's always nice to see these Stockers that would pass the Tech Inspection. Now when I've built the 1:1 '74 Chevelle with my Dad, I know much more about these, compared to the amount of information I had when I built the Nova. Your details are looking excellent in here. Especially the interior is looking good, and I like the tachometer a lot. Your wheel choice is also perfect, those fit really nicely on this car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stump Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Nice progress Walter. Hey, if it's not too much drama, could you add a pic (front on or from the top) to give an idea of how much you trimmed down the guards?? Been thinking of doing this very same thing (guards/wheel openings) but am unsure, as I don't want to get them mismatched. Keep up the great work mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6bblbird Posted January 24, 2014 Author Share Posted January 24, 2014 Some may not mind the wheel opening lips at all. To me? They just did not seem right. The 1:1 fenders have a very narrow lip. If the car has stainless mouldings the lip is a little bit wider, but still not as wide as the kit. I think that this car, especially a race car, looks better with a smooth look. I may add some strip styrene to more closely represent the 1:1 wheel openings. WF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stump Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 Thanks Walter. Man, that looks GREAT, and it's amazing how much neater it makes the car look. Gonna have to give it a shot I think. Thanks again mate, and look forward to seeing some more of your great work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mighty moe Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 I'm building this kit as a super stock ss/aa so I will be following this one looks great so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6bblbird Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 I'm building this kit as a super stock ss/aa so I will be following this one looks great so far. If you want to go the super stock route be prepared to do a lot of surgery to frame and move the springs in quite a bit. I will definitely be doing one or two of these. As a s/s car the lowest class that you would be able to run would be SS/C or SS/CA but most common class would be SS / D or SS/ DA. WF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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