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My Metal Mistress: Finished !


FASTBACK340

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I used to have an inexpensive set of dial indicators I can't find….. so to be totally honest, I just eye-balled it. On my car the line is 3/8" so I just guessed a size until it looked "right". I always have my eyes open for "material". For example, I tack welded something Friday and I noticed the .035 MIG welding wire is a nice, soft copper colored wire. I rolled up about a foot and brought it home…. Always looking!

And as for making fluid lines; Where ever I have to make a bent I either make a nice crisp bent using a set of mini needle nose pliers or gently pulling the line around a file or knife handle for the curves. And make a slight initial bend and check where it fits. It's easier now to straighten the piece, or start over, before you spend too much time on it. I can tell from experience that nothing kills your build faster than screwing up the last bend after making all the others right!

I'm headed out shopping shortly, but I'll have some time later today. More updates to follow…..

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I have a set from Arrowhead, but they are kinda bland & generic. When I first washed these hub caps they looked "ok". I noticed the Chevy emblem embedded but after a wash, it was presentable. Now I'll probably go with the Arrowhead pieces and doll them up a bit. Those caps are a disappointment…..

Now, if I could reduce a 2" emblem down 25 times….. :o

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Yup, I'm going blind…. those are Chevy hub caps. After I washed them it looked like a poorly done Plymouth emblem. Now under a magnifier I can see. My bad big time….

So now I'll try the Arrowhead Specialties machined aluminum ones.

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I also have the rear brake hose junction block mounted and the hard lines run.

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We're also going to plumb the fuel pump, filter, and tank later on. Here's what I do so braided line look like a hose and not a ribbon. I push the braid back (think finger-cuff's….) and slide a thin piece of bendable wire inside, then pull the braid back towards the ends to tighten it up. Now not only is it round, but it holds it's shape. And it's a solid built-in mounting pin. More on this later….

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It's an absolutely beautiful day here in the NYC area as it's almost 60! Hard to stay indoors and build, but this car is too special to let it drag on……. so I'm at the workbench.

Stay tuned…..

Edited by FASTBACK340
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John looks good and thanks for this teaching on building a Cuda with all the details of the 1:1.

Yeah, I knew this was going to happen with the detailing, but I am having fun. If a handful of people can gain something from what I'm doing, that's great. This build has become a little bit passionate for me. I'm even thinking of ripping the interior apart and doing it REALLY nice as the chassis & engine are detailed much more. At the rate I'm going I should definitely have it done for NNL East. Thanks for the compliments and encouragement.

BTW: At NNL East I'm parking next to Rich's `59….. B)

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OK… I've had a little excitement this week that's taken me away from the workbench. I promise, my Mistress is safe & sound. And no, I didn't step on this one too!!!!

This afternoon and tomorrow we get back on track. Updates coming…...

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<sigh….> Life occurs……

I got some bench time in this morning, but just enough to sand down the thick resin 6Bbl. air filter into a lid, make a base plate, and make a filter element. I'm off today & about to go out and run some errands. But I figured I'd post this to let everyone know I'm back on track with both the `68 AND the Pink `70. Just between the job-change and being sick and having to deal with CraigsList crackheads coming to look at my buddy's wrecked car I'm baby sitting in my yard…….

Tonight we move forward. Here's the resin lid, the element, and base. The element was 5mm sheet, while the base was .015mm. The next time I can't fall asleep I'll hand-sand each element fold to clean it up. I'll probably just hit the plastic with dull-coat and paint the top & bottom of the element orange. The lid will be body color as on my car and the base black.

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And here it is mocked-up.

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Now I gotta get my tail IN GEAR!!

Edited by FASTBACK340
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The hub caps I bought from Scale Equip. LTD. are based off of Chevy caps. It's all I have to work with unless someone knows of a kit-source for these Dog Dishes?

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As far as I know, there are no kit sources for those caps. I have a set for my 1968 Road Runner from Auto Atomix, which has since gone out of business. They were turned aluminum, which were great looking, and very accurate. I plan to scribe the "Frog Legs" emblem with an x-act-o knife, like what I did on the wheel covers on my '68 Barracuda Formula S project,

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which by the way, is being rethought after seeing your exquisite project. They also did the round side marker lights, that were unique to the '68 Mopar. I wish that they were still in business, as thay had some nice products.

Edited by Ron Hamilton
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Thanks guys. I know I was going hot & heavy and suddenly stopped. I'm sorry for the interruption but too many other attention grabbers happened. Tonight I painted the sub-frame connectors and some other minor details. The next step is assembling the engine compartment onto the chassis and test-fit the whole shebang…..

More to come….

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Hello Fastback340,

I'm enjoying and learning all I need to know about plumbing underneath my 64 Dodge S/S that's on the bench right now.

Thank you!

One little question maybe;

How/where were the battery cables run when the battery was in the trunk? Along the frame rails, or inside the car?

Michael

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Hello Fastback340,

I'm enjoying and learning all I need to know about plumbing underneath my 64 Dodge S/S that's on the bench right now.

Thank you!

One little question maybe;

How/where were the battery cables run when the battery was in the trunk? Along the frame rails, or inside the car?

Michael

Thank you for the compliment. I'm really enjoying building "my car" as I've had just about every piece of the actual car in my hands at one time or another!

Everything I've found on-line shows the factory routing inside the car, with the caps vented externally. As far as re-location kits, I've seen the positive cable routed inside & under the floorpan. The negative is always grounded to the frame right at the battery.A friend of mine owns a genuine `62 Max Wedge and is our Mopar guru. If it comes down to it, I can get you more info than you'd ever need for one of these cars.

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The added detail to the chassis and engine are gorgeous!! Also do the M/T tires come in a kit at all or are they resin?

Thanks for the compliment! The M-T Drag radials I purchased from forum member Chief Joseph at:

http://www.fireballmodels.info

They are beautiful and very reasonably priced. Example on the right.

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Edited by FASTBACK340
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OK. I looked at Mosher's Mopars, and like in the pic above, they (Mosher's) run the positive cable along the trunk floor, through the interior on the driver's side (somewhere?) and pops out through the firewall below the master brake cylinder, where it's then attached to the firewall, right there about 6 inches above of where it comes out. You sir, and Mosher's is good enough for me!

Many thanks for allowing me to sideswipe your thread a bit.

Michael

Edited by 10thumbs
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